Zed Head

That's a ton of good information. A note for SurferD - if you don't have the test lead polarity right a diode will show as open. So the MSA plug may or may not have been bad. TBD, between you and Dave. Regardless, I'd do what Dave recommends.

I thought it was "racing fuel" (methanol) that they were using. Probably the same guys just reading the labels for anything that ends in "ol". Aren't you in moonshine country, where they throw out the first quart because it has methanol in it? Seems like they'd know better. The kids you're talking about must be city kids.

Couldn't remember exactly how to spell Zsondabrain so I hit the Google.

Good detective work. Is that from MSA, the plug? Dave Irwin, Zsondabrain, might want to hear about that. Be careful with what you have right now. If the thick white charging wire isn't carrying the current to the loads, like the battery and the fusebox, then any smaller wires tapped in to it might. That's how wires end up like grannyknot's pciture. You might be seeing low voltage at the battery because there's a lot of resistance on the way there. Might not hurt to just run a 10 gauge wire from B to the fuse box, like the diagrams show. Make sure that proper path is there.

I've seen that, it's a good clear description. Your problem is that you have no power on W/B, and your charging wire (white with red, W/R) doesn't seem to be connected to anything, or is shorted. I would disconnect everything and focus on getting battery power at yellow (S), power at W/B (L), and a good solid W/R wire path to the fuse box, as beermanpete described. The W/R at the fusebox would enter the box from behind. Get those three things right then worry about connecting them to the alternator.

Seems like you're making some progress. Still a little difficult to figure out exactly where you're measuring. The white wire should be attached to terminal B and should have zero voltage on it since they are in effect, the same wire. So the 5 voltage drop implies that there is current flowing and high resistance, IF you're measuring at the other end of the wire. Where exactly is the probe on the white charge wire? The 18 volts is an overcharge, which shouldn't happen if the S terminal is connected in the right place. If it's connected at the end of the 5 volt drop though that might explain the over-charging. The alt. should hold voltage to about 14 max. on the S terminal. Could be that the internal regulator is fired in your alternator. Maybe have it tested. In theory the alternator shouldn't charge without power on the W/B wire. There's no current for the windings. So that doesn't make sense. Apparently, some alternators will have enough residual magnetism in the cores of the windings to charge, if the engine is revved up. I'm not really clear how that works, but that's often how "one-wire" alternators are set up. Also not clear why you don't have power there. Check the T plug to be sure you don't have a stray wire hsorting across S and L at the connector when you plug it in. You have some very odd numbers. Since the car apparently ran before for a while, it seems like things must have been right then. Maybe the MSA plug doesn't work on the very early 240Z's. You might consider removing it, identifying the S wire and the L wire using your meter, and inserting your own jumpers in to the regulator plug. You can even run a separate wire directly from the battery for S, just as a test. All you really need is the L wire. You could even just run one wire to to both from the battery. You might even be able to run a separate, thick, wire directly to the battery positive for charging. The circuit might be backward, and the engine will probably keep running when you turn off the key but you can at least get some hope that things might work eventually. The 5 volts drop on the charging wire, the lack of power on the W/B, and the 18 volts charging with nowhere to go, are all weird. Weird weird stuff here.

I've only seen plastic shrouds. Is your metal shroud a factory option? Or aftermarket? Regardless, if you seal the back of the shroud to the fan effectively, the negative pressure inside the shroud will pull the air through the radiator. You're basically building a vacuum chamber, evacuated by the fan blades. The most effective pull would be with the blades set right at the edge of the back opening. If you get the blades set far back, you'll want to set the shroud back to match. Just saying, matching the shroud to the blades is the way to go. A sealed shroud with the blades 6 inches away from the radiator would be better than an open-backed shroud with the blades an inch away. You could actually create turbulence at the shroud exit and reduce flow by putting the blades too close to the radiator.

I think that the round area is there so that the rivet (?, bolt?), that holds the top piece to the rest of the jack, can be inserted and attached.

You said that you fixed the solder connection, but then said that you still have open circuit on that wire. You can't charge anything if the wire is not connected. In the first post you said that you saw 17 volts across B to ground. That means the alternator is charging but the S wire has no voltage to regulate to. I think that S is the yellow wire at the T connection. Supported by ...: The fact that it charges implies that the other wire at the T, the L (looks like it says Light in the diagram) wire has voltage. I would check the voltage at the T plug with the key on also. You should have battery voltage at each wire, but it looks like one of them might be open (the S wire). Also check your fuses at the fuse box. If the white wire goes to the fuse box first, maybe there's a fuse on the charging circuit. I don't now the 240Z, the wiring scheme they used seems a bit odd to me (but I have a 280Z so I'm biased). But you have to get continuity from the B post to the battery positive somehow.

Found an old post on shunts. Follows beermanpete's suggestion about the ammeter. SurferD said he bypassed the ammeter in Post #__ . So, back to following the path from the alternator B/charge post to the loads. Considering all of the facts I'm going to say he has a shorted alternator that smoked a link or the ammeter and he has been running off of battery power. A guess.

He said that the ammeter does move when he turns on the light. Doesn't the alternator output run through the shunt? Maybe the shunt is shorted. I don't even know where the shunt is. That wiring diagram I posted doesn't make sense to me. It shows the output running to the fusebox (I assume that "A" is the output), and another fusible link in the battery cable. I posted it because it shows a link, but the rest seems weird. Whatever he does, he should check for shorts to ground before applying power or replacing fusible links.

I believe that sometimes people think the crimp is non-stock and try to fix it with solder. Or just don't like crimps and solder as an improvement. Who knows. I remember finding my first crimped connection in my 280Z harness and wondering what the heck it was doing there. Before I knew a little more. It just seemed so exposed. The wiring diagram from the 1970 Owners Manual shows an "alternator fusible link". I would find that, it looks like it's down by the alternator. If it's "fused" or "defused" though you'll still need to find the short. It's probably on the alternator side, it would blow from battery voltage. Leading to the possibility that your new/old internally regulated alternator is shorted inside. OR you chose the wrong post on the alternator. Makes sure that the post you connected to has a B stamped in to the housing, AND check its continuity to the case and ground. The B post should be open circuit, non-continuity, to the alternator case. Maybe you just got a bad alternator and the fusible link did its job.

One of the guys in that Hybridz thread talked about doing the same to use 300ZX (Z31) 5 lug axles, with 280Z hubs. He said it was 72mm also though. Seems like there are many ways to get there. Machine the hubs, machine the bearings, machine the axles, Redi-sleeve the bearings, Redi-sleeve the axles, drill what you got. Buy aftermarket.

I don't think that factory used soldering to splice or tap wires. They used crimped connectors. If you start a new thread with "1970 ammeter shunt charging problem" you might catch the eye of one of the 240Z electrical gurus. Steve J and CO know a lot along with several others. Charging problems are usually boring, but yours has more meat to it. I know the internally regulated alternators basics, but not much ammeter stuff.

When you "shroud" do you mean the little shield on the top? That's not really a shroud. Without a shroud you probably really want to be within a certain distance from the radiator to get good pull through the fins. If you do have a shroud then I think that the blades typically sit in a certain spot to work most effectively. Doesn't answer your question, but I'd guess that many of us could give you a number, but not many know if theirs is the furthest back. You'd have to know everything that's out there to make that call.

The pictures aren't the greatest but many of the vacuum operated devices are emissions related. Have you checked the FSM chapters? Download it from our download area. Some of the FSM's have a section devoted just to vacuum hoses. http://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/4-manuals/

I think that there's a fusible link on the charge wire. It may have blown when the smoking started and saved you from more damage. Seems like you have something wired wrong and you should probably figure it out before replacing the link, if you can find it. It should be exposed, not buried in harness wrap, so that it can be replaced. I'd start from scratch and examine all of your wiring.

Open to where? You mean no connection to the battery? Or the new alternator? Your car has/had an ammeter. That might be where all of your problems are centered, including the smoke. I commented in general terms about why things weren't working, but someone with an ammeter probably knows the details of your situation. We could could easily get the alternator to work, using two jumper wires, but not the ammeter. Plus, the short that caused the smoke might still be there. You didn't mention the smoke before. Was it before or after the alternator swap? Might want to write up a short history of why you did the swap, when the smoke appeared, and any odd things that might have caused problems.

I've wondered the same. I have a set of 280 ZX 2+2 CV companion flanges. I found a somewhat confusing thread implying that there's a problem with wheel bearing sizes. I wanted the six hole CV flange in my 280Z but I'd have to go backward to 240Z axles to use them. Side note - it's kind of odd that Nissan went back to a smaller axle for a heavier (2+2), more powerful (turbo) car. Here's the thread about bearing sizes. It also has another path to 5 lugs though, that might be interesting - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/103344-280zxt-stub-axle-cv-swap/ On the topic of reinforcing the holes - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/116276-5-lug-hub-stub-axles-conversion-for-240z-260z-280z/ Seems like some thought about where the loads are distributed and how clamping forces work would be worthwhile. People seem to be thinking that radially directed loads are the extreme ones. Not so sure.

Maybe we're in the similar words zone here. In the states I can take a napkin and write "sold to john doe for $400 one 240Z", put a date and signature on it and that is a Bill of Sale. Or maybe it's the same there. I wrote up a bunch of words but it really boils down tot his question - How would a person prove ownership of a car? There must be government documentation somewhere. Which of the Two VINs in question is on that official documentation?

I'm seeing things on the interweb that suggest that even though the documents may not be called "Titles", there are still official documents with the VIN on them in Canada, province-generated, just like the state-generated Certificates of Title that we have here. The owner may not hold them, but the government has registration records. So I guess the question would be "what is the VIN on the official documents?" Is that about right? Or which VIN do you own?

Darn it, the site is dumping on me. Edit and Reply function getting all tied up. I'll just post a picture and a link. Fuel 1973.... file Write the text and now a the file I attached earlier that had disappeared is back. The site is saving some weird stuff.

All of the links on SU's that I find say that 5 is too high and might cause problems. I don't even know exactly how the SU's maintain pressure but spec. is 3.4 psi according to the FSM. I assume that the mechanical pumps regulate internally, and there is an orifice in the carbs that provides back pressure. You'll need a pump that regulates pressure internally if you want to continue to use that method. If you don't, again assuming, you'll have to remove the blockages to allow flow and place a regulator in line, or dead- head the carburetors and replumb them, with a regulator at the T with the return line. From what I gather, the 240Z's all have a return line so there are lots of options. You still haven't described clearly how exactly your system is plumbed though. A regulator won't do you any good unless it's plumbed correctly. http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/fuel/fp202.htm Converting to mechanical might be good for you, (like a pond) - Some good information in this thread from a year and a half ago -

There's a spot on his Facebook page to give some feedback - https://www.facebook.com/California-Datsun-Inc-1410415502525098/reviews/