Zed Head

The rings should fit the groove in the piston, so 1.5mm could be right if the groove is 1.5mm. There's a spec. for side clearance. Too big and the ring will get slammed up and down as the piston moves.

Where is the Registry? Can't find a link. I'm reading different things about standard features. Don't want to load up your thread. Just asking what you're planning. texasz was last on the forum October 2015. @texasz http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/104678-v8-scarab-registrationnumberinglogos/page-2

Probably depends on the vendor and how they drilled and machined the flywheel.

Found this. https://web.archive.org/web/20110415000000*/http://www.pape.ws/allan_and_rosanne/Z-Car_Stuff/Scarab/ https://web.archive.org/web/20110601104437/http://www.pape.ws/allan_and_rosanne/Z-Car_Stuff/Scarab/ Another - http://datsunforum.com/the-scarab-legend-the-original-hybrid-datsun-z/ Good luck.

Funny, the guy in that classiczcars.com thread, texasz, who said the information would always be available because he owned the server, apparently let it lapse. Maybe one of those wayback machines can find it. Randalla, how are you going to restore the car if you don't know how it was built? Just curious, that's why I asked about specs. Looks like somebody already took your beetle badges.

Looks like fun. Do you have any specs on the modifications? Engine, suspension, etc. And no pictures of the engine? That was a major part of the Scarab conversion I thought.

Trolls trolling the Troll thread with likes. Gotta love it. It's in the DNA.

Three gallons is not much and means more lifting effort from the pump. Any tilt and you might be off the pickup. There's a test in the FSM for fuel pump "power". Don't forget that the filter has to fill.

I have a 1976 280Z and the ignition system control switch is the two wire type, but with a loop that grounds through a bolt head instead of a bullet. The wire usually breaks off and the switch becomes worthless. The're a fairly decent picture in the Emissions chapter. Included below. I found a similar picture of a 1972 thermo housing. But they only show the sender. Pyros2, does the part you're trying to replace look like the picture you posted or are you assuming that ti does? You might be able to use the later EFI temp switch. The systems all seem to run both the EGR and the dual ignition, using a relay. The FSM range is close though, 57 - 63 F. "Warmer than cold" seems to be the goal.

I'd offer - don't get distracted "fixing" things that don't have anything to do with your problem(s). Your dying problem here seems like a large clue of some kind. If it started and ran well enough to get out of the driveway then died when you gave it some throttle, it should have started and ran again. The odds of some guy at Advance Auto actually knowing something about 1973 240Z carburetors seems astronomical. I'd guess that he just turned the big obvious knobs until something happened and tried to sound knowledgeable. I could be wrong. There's an N on your alternator indicating externally regulated. One more clue that it's stock. There's a 50 and 60 amp option according to the FSM. Your ammeter should tell you if things are okay. The fact that the battery has enough juice to start the car since you've had indicate that it's probably fine. Overall though, seems like you need a new friend. Who knows old Z cars.

The 240Z chapters say passenger room temperature. Could be one of those translation things. If the car is only driven in the summer the cold setting is probably never used, by the specs. anyway.

Just to finish the circle - how are you defining quality? That's the real question here and the difficult part. We know what looks right and we know what the factory did. We don't know much about these replacement parts. No offense, but just because you'd put one in your car doesn't really tell us much. I don't want to be negative but everybody wants MSA to be successful. The perception about the stamped steel blades is out there and will be hard to replace. Hate to see you pick a low-seller.

Looks like it's the same switch. Weird. Good luck.

I found a variety of switches out there when I was trying top put an injector cooling system together. Seemed like BMW uses several. The only reference to a switch for the EGR system in the FSM seems to be one that resides in the cabin of the car and actuates at about 30 - 52 F. Are you sure it's not for the second set of points, on a dual point distributor?

bluestechtips.com That's the first thing that pops in to anyone's head when they think of the old atlanticz site.

We shouldn't get in to politics, I think. I only described Tony D mostly for the guys at MSA. Tony D can charm people just like many people who will say whatever it takes to get their way.

That nut is hard to see. The strap probably got a workout.

It would be nice if the pumps could be rebuilt. Typically it's just one small piece or two that fails, the seal and/or bearing. I studied the pump and kind of realized you'd need a fairly sturdy and somewhat intricate fixture to do the pressing properly.

They smell different. Engine oil usually has a little bit of a gassy smell, and has some blackish color depending n how old it is. Transmission fluid smells sulfurous and is usually still clear. Could be a bad front seal, or a bad rear seal, so either is possible.

Sorry Joseph, it must have been James that was on. I should have checked your profile. His profile says he was on here 19 hours ago. @James@TheZStore The manufacturers all say the stamped impeller is the same or better as the cast one but never show data. So it looks like just standard cost-cutting. This is the the wrong forum to mention Tony D. His abrasive forum manners aren't popular here at all. He doesn't contribute.

Don't forget that the HG is ~ 1.25 mm.

What's the big blue cube? Dinosaur alarm system? You could follow the wires from the alternator T plug back in to the harness. They should go to the regulator or to some splices where it used to be. And the internally regulated alternators have an "S" and an "L" molded in to the case by the T plug.

The piston pop-up is normal. About 020", or 0.5mm. The observation crops up here and there, for stock engines. Doesn't seem to be spec'ed out anywhere but many people see it.

Most polyester/glass systems are designed to be laid down on a solid substrate, that you can really put some force on to, like a mold or surfboard. There is a whole variety of rollers and spatula-type tools for pressing the thick resin in to the glass fibers. Even with a vacuum bag there is lots of pressing and squeezing on top of the bag material to move the resin around. Sometimes, what is called a "bag" is actually a plastic sheet with putty around the edges to form a seal. A vacuum tube is sealed in at an edge to pull the air out. You also need a catch jar or can to separate resin that gets sucked in to the tube from air that goes through the pump. There's some tricks and art involved. The main reason for the bag is to keep the glass mat from lifting up from the mold surface. Something like this might be a good material for what you're doing. It's intermediate between the tough resin/mat that you're using and brittle body filler. http://bondo.com/bondo-hair-long-strand-fiberglass-reinforced-filler-762.html#do8AAOJHRDtQQCJK.97 Body filler uses inorganic fillers, but these long fibers provide real strength. This looks interesting too - http://bondo.com/bondo-self-adhesive-patch-932.html#740gOEJz8Mh1JlOK.97 And, the solvent-like material in the polyester resin is styrene. It's like toluene in its solvent powers. Which would be about like gasoline. Did not intend to write all of that....