Zed Head

You could measure combustion chamber volume. It's easier than it seems, the hardest part is finding something that is graduated in cc's (Edit - actually, you can always convert any volume to cc's., So any fairly accurate liquid measuring device will work). For what you're doing you don't really need 1/10 cc'.s, 1/2's will work.

Which books? How do you know it needs a rebore? Have you checked the parts against the specs. in the FSM? There are different versions of the E88 head, Probably best to know exactly what you're working with before paying for machine work. You might decide to buy different parts.

I have to test it to failure again. Maybe even put those original transistors back in. The first time it just dropped dead within two miles then restarted a few times, enough to get closer to home. Then was totally dead. Pretty sure that I tested it again before swapping the transistors. I'm usually pretty thorough. Some day I'll just put it in the car and go hoon around in the farmlands.

They're about a zero tolerance fit. So, yes, paint in the hole would be a problem. But they should slide in, no pounding necessary.

Somebody on this site has described a way to adjust the quill from the top. I think it might have been CO. Used some sort of rubber band assembly to hold the quill up from below, then just pushed it down against the rubber with a pair of long-nose pliers off of the gear and turned it to and fro util it came up in the right spot. The short answer is - re-insert and check, with the timing pointer on zero, and the #1 piston at TDC. Best to get everything set correctly, even the cam sprocket. You could also logic it out, knowing that the distributor turns counterclockwise.

I picked up some replacements at Fry's Electronics. I used this cross-reference site to choose NTE247's. Somebody on zcar.com suggested it. 2SD411 here - http://www.nteinc.com/ http://nte01.nteinc.com/nte\NTExRefSemiProd.nsf/$all/1C29450DD0509A6185257910007F08CE?OpenDocument I think I tried the wiggling and banging when I got the car home but it was completely dead. The original ECU didn't have any problems, nor several spares I tried afterward. The cable-end connector seems fine. It was all ECU. Later I put the new transistors in and it started right up. I drove it around the block, took out the ECU and put it on the shelf. Too scary, didn't really trust the solution.. Maybe I'll put the ECU back in and see what happens. Out in the country, where the car can die in a spot I can work on it.

The 240Z's seem to have less space between diff and hub than 280Z's. 240Z people often have binding problem with u-joint halfshafts when they swap an R200 in, even though the 280Z's come with the R200 stock. The rear hubs must be thicker on the 240Z's. Beware.

I don't think a blown HG always leaks coolant in to the cylinders. But I think that if it's leaking combustion gases in to the cooling system that's easy to diagnose. I almost did the same thing you're doing. I had a 240Z picked out in California and was negotiating with the seller to pick it up. I was going to fly down and drive it back to Portland. The seller changed her mind though and I didn't get the chance. You might just have a bad gauge. If you're lucky. Good luck.

Ouch. Two hours is about Des Moines, isn't it? He has a situation. So, cruising on the freeway and the temperature shoots up? Not good. Mine did that once but it was because a heater hose split. Pretty obvious. If it went two hours, you'd think the radiator and shrouding and air flow were sufficient. Check the radiator for a plastic bag or large bird blocking air flow. Seems more likely that the head gasket is leaking tough, doesn't it?

Never realized a mistake could bring such joy. I feel like an ignorant slut.

The only arcs on a car should never be seen. Spark plugs, relays, switches. Are the arcs so big that you can see the flash from the driver's seat? That's a lot of arc.

If I read this right you're still driving the car even though it constantly "overheats". Have you verified the temperature? Maybe it's a bad gauge. How long have you had the car? If it's been fine for years then had this problem all of a sudden then a broken/malfunctioning part seems likely. The current system used to work. If it's a brand new setup then modifications might be needed.

Never mind. The point has been made, and amplified. Too bad, it was a simple question. What does legitimate mean, in the context of fixing a radiator? That's all there is to it.

Nothing.

Oh well, it was fun to do, and cheap. Good thing I was dumb or I never would have tried it. Any chance they can test fine cold but fail when current starts flowing? Edit - the main reason I even considered this was because I heard an interesting piece on NPR about how the development of transistors that could handle high voltage, or maybe it was current, allowed the development of electronic ignition. So I had transistor failure in mind. Seemed to fit the symptoms, with constant current through the (damaged) transistor causing the injectors to stay open.

Just to be clear, I'm a materials kind of guy. It's all just what it is. Metal, plastic, wood. Datsun used adhesives and sealants on the cars. They used brazing and welding. They didn't use wood but they did use plant-based materials, I think. So, we just need to define the rules, Qualifying the statement would have been appropriate. If you want to be like original then 3 rows and shrouds and JB Weld are all illegitimate. That's why it felt funny. They're all bad, unless the rules are redefined.

I'll just go to the basics. It's from Google though. So I don't know if it's legitimate. le·git·i·mate adjective ləˈjidəmət/ 1. conforming to the law or to rules. "his claims to legitimate authority" synonyms:legal, lawful, licit, legalized, authorized, permitted, permissible, allowable, allowed,admissible, sanctioned, approved, licensed, statutory, constitutional; More

What's funny is, that the broken bond is apparently a sign of originality. So, with enough pub, could be a selling point for an early 240Z. CL ads - "broken right radiator braze - original radiator!"

The point was - define legitimate. It's a vague dimensionless hard to define word. What do you mean?

Only commenting 'cause this post gave me a funny feeling. What is "legitimate"? One could argue that adding a row to the radiator is not. Or a shroud, if it didn't come with one in that year. If it's okay as long as it looks right, then JB Weld fits, because you can make it look right. JB Weld is just an adhesive, no different really than a brazed fix, if done properly. "Right" is what works. It's just a radiator.

I have an adjustable FPR and an adjustable "tweak" on my coolant temperature sensor circuit and I find that I can't get a great air-fuel mix across the full range of activity. I can tune it for part-throttle mid-range, clean-smelling exhaust at throttle lift, but I get a small miss at full throttle. If I add fuel the full throttle response is great but I get a little bt of gassy smell cruising around town, coming to the lights. The newer, like 80's to 90's EFI systems with O2 sensors and lower RPM fuel cut might solve that. Back in the 70's when all cars stank, 90 percent had carbs, and people couldn't smell them through their cigarette smoke ruined noses anyway, these 280Z EFI systems were probably considered super-clean. Forgot to say that I also have non-spec. injectors so not comparable directly to the stock system. But I've been trying to get the perfect tune forever. Very difficult.

Since this topic is current and because I mention my bad 1978 ECU and how I "fixed" it occasionally, I dug around on the internet for a transistor test and ran it on the two old 1978 ECU transistors. Which I kept, for future study. I know very little about electronics. I remember learning about P's and N's and various other things but never had need to use the information so it has rusted away in the back of my brain. I'll just put these test results here in case somebody that knows gets bored. Fluke 115, diode setting. NEC D411A M74 transistor markings. Two leads, collector is case. This procedure, because it sounded authoritative - http://www.vetco.net/blog/?p=184 These results. Values in parens are what "should" be found. Seems weird that both transistors would fail at exactly the same time. Considering manufacturing technology, not too surprising that they fail the same way though. If these numbers actually mean a fail. They might be fine. The + or - is the probe used. I ran the same tests on a Radio Shack 2N3055 type, NPN and it passed all tests. Posting for the record, no idea of value, not my league or my game. Maybe I'll take my ignition module transistor out and test it if there's meaning here. B+ --- E- .660, .665 (.45 - .9) B+ --- C- .561, .559 (.45 - .9) E+ --- B- 1.2, 1.2 (OL) C+ --- B- OL, OL (OL) C+ --- E- OL, OL, (OL)

Maaann, I saved that picture and blew it up but didn't know what I was looking at. Good eye. I still see some flags but I've reached my negativity quota for the day.

One last thing. I've seen a few MFI Mercedes Benz systems. Aren't the high pressure lines metal? The hose to the mechanical pump might be rubber, but I think that final distribution lines are metal tube. Got this picture from Patcon's link. Porsche 911.

The 8mm is smooth. You can get that at your local parts store. As far as quality, what they've done is move the fibers to inside the body of the hose wall. And they added a fluoropolymer coating inside for gasoline and ethanol resistance. That repro hose is probably of lower quality for today's usages. When I said "tight" I meant "probably won't fit". Sorry to be so full of negative news. Good luck.