Zed Head

You can check for power at the injectors with the key On, with a meter or test light. I think that power is supplied in a set of two and four. But it's grounded through the ECU in sets of three. So you might have an issue with the ECU. If you have a meter, going through the tests in the EFI Guide is the way yo do things. It's what's happening at the eCU that really matters and most of the tests start there. The 1980 EFI guide (in the Downloads section) covers all years up to 1981. Use that one.

You were almost to a good conclusion. When you put the 3 rear connections on the 3 fronts, did the 3 front cylinders start working instead of the back 3? Or did the same cylinders work, just with different connections? If the cylinders that work follow the connections, then it's a connection problem. If they don't, it's a spark or mechanical problem. These engines will start and run with the firing order of the plug wires backward. They sound like they're running on 3 cylinders when you do that (by accident, of course). Finally, history of the engine helps. Did it ever run right, as far as you know? Edit - sorry for the ad. It came with the edit box.

This seems a bit presumptuous. You have the need.. Seems like this would be a place where some ingenuity and some LED bulbs could result in an improved system. Maybe even a light with a focusable lens, like the LED flashlights. The stock system really isn't a lot of help, especially n a metro area where the street lights cause sharp shadows.

BE-6 has a nice wiring diagram. Shows a red w/blue that powers the inspection lamp.

I've had numerous problems with my gauge lights. The sockets get screwed up and the contacts in the socket don't make good contact with the bulb. MSA's replacement bulbs were too big and rubbed on the inside of the housing. Some of the sockets have a ground wire attached to the socket itself, some of them ground through the edge of the mounting hole. Generally, the gauge lights are pain and require special attention to get working right, and installed without knocking something loose. My complaint might not help you but the point is it could be one of several different possible problems with each bulb. I had to go through each socket individually. And one of them still is intermittent.

p.s. most mechanics today will assume that the ECU has sensors for every component and use an IACV and/or ignition timing to control idle speed. The early EFI system is very primitive and hard to comprehend for today's code readers. The components mostly work independently with the engineers assuming that each individual component is adjusted to a certain specification. Very little adjusting to conditions, besides the coolant temperature sensor. They're very close to being electronic carburetors.

Dude. The above statement is wrong. Sorry. It's all described in the Factory Service Manual, in detail, with pictures.

p.s. only going in to detail because your first post suggested that you wanted understand how the EFI system worked. You're n the right place, there are many members out here who understand the EFI system in great depth. Your conclusions have potential, but are not right.

Sorry, and again, no offense, but until you turn that screw 1/2 turn and go out and show that it causes the engine to fall on its face again, you're just guessing and believing "mechanics" who probably don't really understand the engines. This - "When the car is cold and being enriched by the air regulator being open, it detects that and doesn't operate the same as it does when the car is hot and not under enrichment." and the "no doubt" cause a lot of doubt out here. Your conclusions and understanding are not right. The AAR is on its own circuit, the ECU has no idea what its doing. As I said, no offense intended. Thanks for sharing your observation. Go turn that screw 1/2 turn, you can do it by hand, and see what happens. The idle speed will increase slightly and that's all.

No offense, but it's probably just a coincidence. The proper way to tell if the "full enrichment" was happening would have been with a meter, at the ECU connector. From an experimental perspective, if you want to verify that the 1/2 turn of the screw was the cause, you would turn the screw back to where it was. The problem should return. The idle adjustment screw just controls an air passage that lets air past the throttle blade. It's the one with the big head and the spring underneath the head. Could be that your distributor breaker plate is sticking, and it broke free when you were testing. Just one possibility.

These old EFI systems tend to run lean once you get all the bugs worked out, ofent it's so bad that you'll get popping back through the intake. I have a method of richening the mixture and I can get a misfire/stumble if I have it set too lean. You could try it, it's pretty easy. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html The electronic ignition modules fail also but that problem tends to be more obvious than what you're describing. I'd try the the "fuel tweak" first. I have mine mounted in the cabin so I can tune it to the finest level. It makes a difference.

Nice. If you lower the car just a bit it will help the handling a lot. I've heard/read that the later cars sit a little high because there's certain height the 5 mph bumpers have to be at. Federal guidelines. Only mentioning 'cause you're going to work on the suspension.

You said you tried. Did it work? Do you have the FSM? You're kind of rambling around on what the problem is. There's a lot of "load" that happens before 5000 RPM. What kind of "stumbling" does it do? Is there any popping through the intake or is it just a spark problem? What does the tachometer needle do when it's stumbling? The pump noise might be from the filter before the pump, making it too difficult to pull fuel. Your fuel pressure is higher than spec. Not looking for buddies. Good luck.

What kind of electrical? Engine, lights, dash... They're different. And which garages have you tried? Probably best to stick to this sub-forum. Run a single thread.

What kind of electrical? Engine, lights, dash... They're different. And which garages have you tried?

You might check a lawnmower or small engine repair shop. The cables on those are two way actuators.

I think that they call them reservoirs. They work more as charging systems, air blows out but coolant gets sucked back in. You have to have the right radiator cap for them to work, with two valves, an in and an out. Dave WM, you might have a Canada car. Apparently they didn't get them. Cooling chapter...

Consider McMaster Carr also. https://www.mcmaster.com/#music-wire/=14yc2e0

Dang. Didn't realize how lucky I was. You might reconsider scavenging the wrecking yards. Some of the older bigger cars can have lengthy cables, with sheaths.

The open side always faces toward the fluid.

You live in Texas, surrounded by industry, and can't find a hardware store with piano wire? I live in the Portland metro area and found it at a True Value store. It came in three foot length's, if I recall. Sometimes the internet makes things so easy they actually get more difficult.

What's a dovetail?

Here's some more. Just trying to help, Barnfind. https://www.facebook.com/pages/Hoyts-Automotive/129484637180727

He doesn't know man. It's free! Here's some Google-fu. https://www.google.com/maps/place/120+Pond+Rd,+Bowdoinham,+ME+04008/@44.0241324,-69.9292189,1535m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m5!3m4!1s0x4cb2760e52040e65:0xced01639ea96351c!8m2!3d44.024622!4d-69.9232679

Your in-dash voltmeter can tell you quite a bit about the electrical system. Look at the needle before starting the car, at idle, and when the engine is revved up. It should be higher when the engine is running. And look at the red charge light. It should be on when the key is On, and go off when the engine starts.