Zed Head

Sorry, I see where you got the wrong name now. MSA calls their ECU's "fuel injection brains" or "computers" too, even though they're neither. They're good but the informality can cause communication problems. So, yes, those are the yokes that you need. Calling them spacers can lead to misguided work, like "why don't I just stack some flat washers?". Oh well. Good luck. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic12e01b/14-0373 http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic17b10

A followup - Nissan has had trouble getting their exhaust manifolds clamped in place, without breaking studs or leaking, for many many years. Take care in choosing your parts.

The tings you're calling spacers, are clamps. They clamp the manifolds to the head. That was my point. Nissan calls them yokes because they hold a part in place. They don't provide a space, separate two parts, like a spacer would. Not trying to be difficult, just trying to help you get your head around what those little parts do and how important they are. They're very important.

You can still get Nissan studs and nuts from your local dealer.

Nissan calls them "yokes". Clamps or clamping washers might be descriptive also. But they don't provide a space, so... http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-280z/manifold-egr/from-aug-76 Note that they're curved also. The top of the curve should be under the nut, with the edges on the manifold. Also note that Nissan did not use washers, flat or lock, although people often add them anyway when they do work there. Put some time in to those small areas. Clean up the rust and corrosion from surfaces that touch, and if you reuse the studs and/or nuts, clean up the threads. The nuts aren't torqued very tight so any thread crud can screw up your readings. Crud at a mating surface can move later also, screwing things up. It's difficult to get a good exhaust seal that lasts a long time. Many people end up living with small leaks, "until next time".

"spacers" isn't enough information.

Looks like one seller with many names. I Googled your part number, and ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Exhaust-Manifold-Gasket-KP-14035-N3500-Fits-Nissan-280Z-810-Maxima-/360542339693 http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-KP-Exhaust-Manifold-Gasket-KB204127-14035N3500-for-Nissan-810-280Z-Maxima-/271955673700 http://www.ebay.ca/itm/KP-14035N3500-Intake-and-Exhaust-Manifolds-Combination-Gasket-/121948242893?hash=item1c64ae83cd http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Intake-and-Exhaust-Manifolds-Combination-Gasket-KP-14035N3500-fits-77-Nissan-810-/400811638373?hash=item5d523c3e65

The How To Rebuild book describes checking both the flywheel and pressure plate for wear and/or heat checking then resurfacing them using sandpaper if they're okay. New is not always better. I noticed a noticeable difference between my "Zoom" Napa store pressure plate and a Rhinopac brand that I got later. The Rhinopac had a much smoother, lighter pedal feel.

A possibly helpful detail is realizing that .36 is about 1/3, .9 is almost 1, .7 is almost 3/4, and .54 is about 1/2. Different enough to make it easy to estimate. The first three revolutions are simple, but you don't really need to know the decimals on the final one to determine what you have. And if one wheel gets ahead of another as you're turning them, just turn the other to catch up, or turn the other back. As long as they end up at the starting point the math will be right. If you set yourself up right you can have your face under the propeller shaft while you turn both wheels with your hands. Use a bright mark and lots of light.

Thanks for following up. I made my suggestions more along the lines of helping MSA with their AFM business, since they lost a potential customer to CARDONE and the reason was stated, Just seemed like good intel from the customer side. I'm not really looking to make a few dollars scavenging cores. It sounds like you guys are happy with how things are, so carry on. This thread will be buried soon so if there's no change on the web site, then it's a dead topic. Good luck.

Yes.

These guys seem to be addressing the problem. They say the right words anyway. Worth a shot maybe. They have some other interesting products too. https://whiteheadperformance.com/product/whiteline-steering-coupler-kit-w11044-datsun-240z-260z-280z/ http://www.whiteheadperformance.com/?s=whiteline+240z&post_type=product

I linked that article in Post #6, it's from 2014. The Hagerty charts show that values did increase dramatically in 2015. But Hagerty itself might have a vested interest in increasing the values, since they price their insurance on value. I'm not implying that they are trying to do that, it's just an inherent conflict of interest.. If they showed their data for each data point on their charts that would be fantastic. https://www.hagerty.com/valuationtools/About-our-prices

This one? - https://www.hemmings.com/magazine/hmn/2015/05/1975--78-Datsun-280Z/3748571.html I was really more interested in the idea that there are market manipulators out there planning an attack on the early 240Z market, feeding it PEA's (performance enhancing articles) and waiting. I wanted to be ready to watch the battle.

I found some old 2014, and undated, articles using Google. Can't find anything recent. https://www.classicdriver.com/en/article/cars/cars-we-love-datsun-240z-fairlady https://www.hagertyinsurance.co.uk/price-guide/1969-Datsun-240Z http://petrolicious.com/why-the-datsun-240z-is-collectable The Hagerty valuation tool is most interesting though. Can't find those articles you're referring to though. https://www.hagerty.com/apps/valuationtools/1970-Datsun-240Z

I can't remember exactly who, but somebody here said that they knew the guy who bought that car from the Wheeler Dealer guys. Or maybe he bought it from the guy that bought it.. Never did let anyone know what shape it was in or what they were planning to do with it. Kind of sounded like they were going to undo everything that WD did and restore it. I know a guy who used to own a crab boat (actually a tender) and knew many of the crews on the Discovery show. He said the same, lots of staging of events.

Do you have links or references to these articles? It would be interesting to see how they're being represented. Maybe that guy parting out his 240Z should be keeping the shell for the VIN.

No problem. Good luck. Make sure that the distributor body has a good ground connection. The module and coil current passes through it.

Sounds interesting. Sophisticated buyers inserting themselves. How do they do that? Seriously, are you saying that people will be joining the forum and talking or bidding up the value of the "Series 1" cars. Only. By the way, some experts here will argue that there's no such thing as a "Series 1" (your 1st Series, I assume). It seems like you're suggesting that the market is about to be manipulated by people who collect for investment purposes. " collectors move to create new markets".

The brake light will come on when engine RPM drop so low that the alternator isn't charging. So that might be a non-issue. Sounds like your engine just stops running well, almost like it's running out of fuel. Could be blockage in the fuel tank. If you can hook up a fuel pressure gauge and put it somewhere that you can see it while driving, you'll know more.

I understand core charges also, but this one seems irrational, with no real calculation behind it. Picked from thin air. Just makes you wonder. Aside from that, it's a lost sale and drives a potential customer out to look at alternatives. So, big picture wise, they probably lose more than just the single AFM sale. Once you go CARDONE, you probably stay there until you get a bad part.. The only reason I @ these guys is so that they can tune the business to keep the customers happy. Staying quiet out here while people talk about why they didn't buy from MSA doesn't help anybody.

Have you considered reconsidering your core charge? Maybe get some economists to help? Risk/reward. opportunity cost, etc. You have a nice case study here of how the high core charge drove a customer to the less expensive alternative. $400 seems like it came from nowhere. It's more expensive than the rebuilt part, which makes no readily available sense. Also, has anyone considering buying cores? Many of us out here have old AFM's that we've picked up cheap, as spares. I often see good cores in the wrecking yard, with corroded electronics. No need to try to save them though because there's no market for the core. Off to the crusher. I'd probably send them to somebody $20 each, if they wanted them. Maybe even free if somebody asked.

It's a philosophical discussion at this point. Calculating the number of teeth in the mouth of the dead horse we're beating. Comparing Jai, who joined to share her car and experience with the club, and to get some help with it, to a guy who joined only to sell his car isn't quite right though. Not really the same type of people, I'd say. And saying that somebody got taken advantage of because they sold their car for less than they could have squeezed out doesn't make sense. If you were the buyer, would you offer him that difference? An extra $7000 just to be fair, because you know it's the right thing to do? If not, then the argument doesn't really hold up. I'm not arguing just to argue, I just enjoy a good philosophy discussion. Hope nobody is getting disturbed., No offense intended. Maybe tse4me will come back and share the story of the sale of his car. That would be nice of him, considering the help he got here. @tse4me

The system is supposed to add 27% more fuel than the base pulse when the full throttle switch in the TVS is actuated. The other consideration is cam profile, which is designed to really kick in at about 3000 RPM, I believe. If you hit the gas at 2000 RPM, it might be that 1000 RPM climb that you're really waiting on. You might just need to drop down a gear.

Make sure you get a good FPR if you get an adjustable one, like shown in the picture. Many of the aftermarket units leak down as soon as the pump shuts off.