Zed Head

The population of Z owners with automatics is small, maybe even tiny. I can't remember who has one but if you start a new thread with "Automatic transmission" in the title it might catch an eye. Valvoline makes good products though, probably can't go wrong there.

I don't recall any pins on the vacuum advance unit. Just the tiny screw that attaches the arm to the breaker plate and the big screw that locks the unit to the distributor body. Usually you can twist the unit after the big screw is out to break it free from the distributor body. Couldn't identify the tiny screw so I just marked the spot where it attaches. Remove those two screws and all that holds it in is corrosion. Some heat on the body (housing) might expand it enough to break loose.

We didn't ask the fundamental question of "what are your plans for the car?" And "what are you good at?" And "what do you like doing?" The car you're looking at will take a lot of work, so might be a while before you enjoy driving it. Aside from the leaks, the engine has headers, and a fuel gauge on the fuel rail so it's been messed with and might have problems. The extra 5 speed is a sign that the transmission is bad. Who knows if the extra trans is any good itself. You'll need a garage big enough to put the car up high enough to drop a transmission. Does Atlanta have emissions testing? That could take some work to pass. Overall it looks like a lot of work for a lot of money. Your car is barely "Fair" - https://www.hagerty.com/apps/valuationtools/1977-datsun-280z

The FSM says Dexron. OReilly says that their Valvoline product works. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/maxlife-5150/engine-parts---mounts-16774/transmission---transaxle-16780/transmission-parts-16520/at-fluid---vehicle-specific-13555/3db5c75d447e/valvoline-maxlife-synthetic-transmission-fluid-1-quart/maxlifed/4773348/1977/nissan/280z?q=dexron&pos=13

Manual or auto?

Here's a tool to help you get the same diameter or see where you'll end up with different sizes. https://tiresize.com/calculator/

One of the guys has been refinishing metal parts, talked about in his thread. Can't remember who, exactly. Check the threads that have resto in the title. What do you mean by "restore"?

The wiring diagram from the car the dash came from would most likely match. Just saying. If it was in a car then the diagram is out there.

On the FPR, EuroDat was right way back in 2013. The forum used to have post numbers but you'll have to search for the post now. It's in there.

A service manual would have the diagram.

What kind of car is that from?

That car is way over-priced. You could probably find a better one and have it shipped to you for less. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1978-datsun-280z-67/

The same style VIN. They just stopped putting the engine serial number on the tag. Don't know why. I had a 76 and a 78, so have seen both.

Nissan stopped putting the engine number on the tag in 77 or 78. It's not on a 78 for sure though.

Some help https://www.classiczcars.com/articles/body-paint/

Sounds like on the the plastic rollers has broken. Fairly common. There are some solutions on the site, can't remember where.

It's on their Facebook page.

You tried calling Avant Garde Collections? They have a Facebook page too. https://www.facebook.com/avantgardecollectionportland/

The video says that it's these guys, https://www.a-gc.com/inventory.htm , if you click through to youtube.com.

The BaT listing says that a dealer is selling it. Might look for classic car dealers. "The selling dealer acquired the project a year ago and completed it with new suspension components, brakes, tires, interior trim, seals, spark plugs, and more as outlined below."

Generally, everyone uses high zinc for breaking a new engine in. Seems mandatory to avoid destroyed cams. But many of us have been fine with non-zinc oil on higher mileage, broken-in, engines.

If you're on a computer there's a "choose files" choice. Not sure about the mobile app. you can also use the Snip tool if you're using windows and just paste it directly in to the box.

I guess it boils down to why you're picking a venue for selling a car. To take home maximum money or to be a part of a good show.

Could have been an attempt to fix the leaky head gasket. Did you crack a bolt loose? How do you know they were overtorqued? Things don't fit - 30,000 original miles is barely broken in. No reason for an HG to go. Unless there was detonation, maybe from low octane fuel. As I understand things though, that usually blows 5 or 6. Check for signs of the head being off in the past. Something's odd here.

So it's not out yet? One way to make sure you use minimum heat is to put force on it while you do the heating. It will let go when you just hit the right amount of heat.