Zed Head

It's probably just a 75-76 thing. You're hoarding the wrong cars. My 76 only had it on one side. Maybe they phased it out. 2, 1, 0.

Checking plugs and exhaust is the best way to see a rich condition. Here's another thing I learned years ago. The cylinders can lose their seal if they have surface rust and have dried out over the years. You can squirt a big shot of motor oil in through each spark plug hole so that it runs down around the rings to give you a temporary seal. A friend and I spent a day and half trying to get a 63 Bonneville started until an old farmer on a tractor came by and said "squirt some oil in the cylinders". It fired right up after we did that. It was a carbed engine but the same might apply here. Use one of those flexible nozzles or a piece of hose to get the oil up to the top of the cylinder so it runs down around the rings. If I were in your situation, I'd pull the plugs, recheck gap, squirt some oil in and let the gasoline dry out for a little while. Then squirt some starting fluid in each hole, put the plugs back in and give it a crank.

Edit - it's in the AC chapter of the FSM.

My 76 had something similar on the driver's side. It just blew air down on my feet. Can't remember if it said pull-push or not. The hose looks factory Nissan on yours.

Don't overlook weak spark. 1975 was the second year of electronic ignition. Not the strong spark of later years, just electronified points level spark. Make sure your plugs are gapped for it, around 0.029" I think.

The other "extra fuel" thing is the cold start valve. Somebody just had that problem. Your resistance looks about right, chart below. You can disconnect the fuel hose and plug it for a test. It will have full fuel pressure behind it so be careful. Something for the back of your mind - the ECU's often go super rich before they fail completely. Too bad, no quick fixes for you. Looks like you're on the marathon route.

What resistance number did you get from Pin 13? That's the coolant(water) temperature sensor. High resistance makes the ECU think you're in the Arctic. Adds lots of extra fuel. Pretty common to have a problem there. You could disable the fuel pump and see if it dries out enough to start with fluid. It will give you a clue about timing.

That's nasty looking. The thing with the damper and key and keyway is that they look so simple and crude but they are really very precisely machined and fitted pieces. You can see how the edge of the damper would catch on those dings and push it right out of the keyway. Now you know. Good luck.

The name is Silver...SilverFinger. Somebody likes silver. Check out the rocker/valve/cam cover. It's different. Arizona. @cgsheen1 ? https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-153/

Green 72 with minor goobers. Lots of originality. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-171/

Silver 77 sold for a sensible price. $23,250. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1977-datsun-280z-52/

Noun - person, place or thing. Thank you Mrs. Partridge, high school English teacher. She thought I was an attentive student but I was really just making a list of all of the parts I needed for my car.

nouns

Hence, your quandary. The "ping". Wonder if the slinger will fit inside the seal opening. You could still install one. Edit - never mind, your seal is out. Easy to do.

You can still get them. Doesn't seem to be much to them. Wonder which way the oil is meant to be thrown. Seems like the translation from Japanese should have been deflector, not thrower or slinger. I'll bet it is just a shield to keep the distributor gear from piling oil up in to the front of the cavity. Edit - actually the distributor drive gear is probably the "thrower". It sits right there throwing oil toward the seal as it spins. https://www.ebay.com/itm/313204496693?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=313204496693&targetid=1068323850870&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9033513&poi=&campaignid=10459841973&mkgroupid=104612009900&rlsatarget=pla-1068323850870&abcId=2146002&merchantid=6520324&gclid=Cj0KCQjwl9GCBhDvARIsAFunhsk-dWNN7wM3i3pAAR4Cr-9JOEmxBrISOUjfedPQLrRQVC0BdKcf-fwaAlDGEALw_wcB

It's called an "oil thrower".

Reality bites for the 2+2 crowd. Only got to $9,500. Not enough. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1977-datsun-280z-22-8/?utm_source=dm&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=2021-03-19

Put some denticles on it. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/323011115_Shark_skin-inspired_designs_that_improve_aerodynamic_performance

I wonder if the oil slinger is the "metal plate" that somebody was seeing in a recent thread about the woodruff key. He was just trying to replace the seal and ended up with quite a mess. His key was jammed in the keyway at an angle. I've read that some engines didn't come with the slinger and many people just leave it out after working on the engine. Here's the thread -

Somebody on a different forum measured under hood temperatures for Z's and found that when the car was moving the air under the hood equilibrated to outside air temperature. It got replaced faster than it could be heated. Non-moving might be a different story, can't remember what he found there. His conclusion was that relocating inlets was not worth the effort.

Use the term "heat soak". It's been discussed in depth in the past. Aluminum fuel rails seem to help, they dissipate the heat, apparently. It's a very common problem.

It's not going anywhere. Leave it for the next guy. It might end up on your drain plug magnet. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/10-2163 https://zcardepot.com/products/crankshaft-woodruff-key-oem-240z-260z-280z?gclid=CjwKCAjw9MuCBhBUEiwAbDZ-7isNOClrwtUI2J2DW2XhCmh3NKXlmPE7N6ZD_4dJXtYIMHgVquObfRoC3ycQAvD_BwE&utm_campaign=google shopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&variant=19276322832497

If the NOIDs work the injectors should work. I don't know your budget but I've found that salvage yard Bosch and Nissan injectors can still be just fine if the rail holds pressure. Any Z or ZX, just cut the fuel line and see if fresh fuel squirts out. If it does get the FPR too. There's still a bunch ahead of you but looks like you're almost there.

Injectors can't really be fixed so if those others are open circuit, they're toast. It's weird that they are open though, I think that they usually short circuit internally, or just get jammed mechanically @Terrapin Z might have some used injectors to get you started. If you're not sure where your project is going to end up. He has a hoard of parts. You could also buy just one injector and see if you can get one to work right. Still odd also that your NOID lights didn't work. Are you sure they had a good connection? You used a jumper instead of a NOID light.

82 Turbo survivor. Looks like fun, decent. Ready for guilt-free abuse. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1982-datsun-280zx-turbo-12/