Zed Head

Thousands (millions maybe) of people have been fine with just jamming a new dry clean wire in to the hole. You just need to get things to the way they're supposed to work. Somebody mentioned arcing. Maybe your cap is not seating well on the rotor and you're getting an arc across that gap. I don't know how much excess heat that would produce, there are six arcs per revolution inside the cap anyway. Check the inside of the cap, the center, to see what's happening and the contact point on the rotor. Find the source of the heat. Create a path of good contacts from the coil to the rotor top and your situation should become normal.

The Z wave has passed, apparently. Here's another old Datsun though. 66 Roadster. The engine bay looks a lot like a Z's, with the dual carbs and intake and exhaust on the same side. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1966-datsun-1600-roadster-19/

No. And if it keeps getting hot the tape will get all melty and gooey. Big mess.

You might just have a dirty/poor connection and the resistance is causing heat. Maybe get a new center wire and a new cap and make sure that the wire is pressed al the way in. There really shouldn't be much heat generation there.

Or visions of leading her blind husband around. 😎 That's a spendy item but one medical visit probably breaks even, besides long-term risk. https://www.amazon.com/Optrel-Crystal-Auto-Darkening-Welding-1006-900/dp/B07LHDC74K

You're getting a lot of advice about the fine details to get that last 10-15% of power from an engine. It looks like you are starting with an L24 and have the option of buying another L26. Both factory stock engines, maybe?. It will help you to define what you want the engine to do when you're done. You can spend a lot of money on parts that won't help you reach your goals. Plus the money you can spend removing or modifying perfectly good parts to install the unnecessary parts might be wasted. The parts all need to work together. Expensive pistons that never see more than 6000 RPM are probably a waste. High CR with poor fuel is a waste. A ported head with a poor exhaust system is a waste. You started your thread with machining a head, but machining a head should be in the middle of your list of things you need to do to reach your goals. You need a plan first. Plus you need to know the quality of the parts you're starting with. If the L26 has already been bored you won't be able to use your L24 pistons in it, for example. But you might be able to use the L26 crank in the L24 block. Example. Since you're limited in finding parts and spending money, many of the suggestions made won't be reasonable for you. I'd get the parts and see what's usable. You might find cracked heads, trashed cylinders, damaged valves, etc. Don't spend too much money until you know what you have in front of you.

I remember visiting a friend in high school with another buddy and messing around with her dad's arc welder. They were doing a down to the frame rebuild of a 63 Impala. He started trying to weld with the "close your eyes" method. I left before he did and didn't see him in school for two days. He was blind from burned retinas. It cleared up but I'm sure it was a scary time.

It's difficult. Get some picks, a small screwdriver, a little piece of wire. I think that anyone who has done a few has developed their own special method. https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=Pick And Hook

Did you ever measure cylinder pressure? Compression ratio is a really simple number, just )combustion chamber plus swept volume)/(combustion chamber). It doesn't tell you what the cylinder pressures are, which is what causes detonation. Pressure. Funny, but I went out to be sure I had my definition of CR correct and found some sources that define it incorrectly. People forget the combustion chamber volume in some of them. Anyway, pressure is the key, calculating CR is just a starting point. https://www.britannica.com/technology/compression-ratio

I'll bet squirrels are pretty tasty. They eat well, acorns, nuts and stuff, and seem pretty healthy. Here in the PNW we really need to start eating sea lions. There's plenty around now.

Mr. Unseen, your pellet gun is needed. @siteunseen https://www.theguardian.com/world/2021/jan/08/squirrel-attacks-nyc-neighborhood-fear “Suddenly the squirrel ran up my leg and I thought ‘it’s a small rodent, how bad could this be’, so I stood completely still and they next thing I knew the blood started to fly. It was a wrestling match that got very bloody very quickly,” Frederick said.

Not bad for the ZX, thought it might get in to the 20's but it didn't. $17,050.

Not normal. Could be a weak battery or alternator or both. Best thing to do is take some measurements.

Here's a couple of 1's. Can't be 7's.

Nobody mentioned this part either. $5200 for a 1/71 240Z.

Did you see the wheels part?

This 1 almost looks engraved. There's no distortion.

Went out to BAT searching for "1"'s. Surprisingly hard to find.

That fan clutch looks fine. Loose when cold, tightens up when it gets hot.

Look at these two guys. They have no idea why they're there. It's just a vandal party. Probably father and son.

There seems to be a bigger problem with just knowing why people believe what they believe. The woman that got killed was a military veteran and worked in security. What was she doing rushing the Capitol building? What was she supporting? https://www.kusi.com/kusi-news-confirms-identity-of-woman-shot-and-killed-inside-us-capitol/ The woman is Ashli Babbit, a 14-year veteran, who served four tours with the US Air Force, and was a high level security official throughout her time in service. Her husband says she was a strong supporter of President Trump, and was a great patriot to all who knew her.

Put a hose in the top and see how fast it drains out the bottom. That will be a clue. It should flow a lot of water through the cooling channels. There are still radiator shops out there that can boil them out and pressure check them if it's slow. I messed around with my bad radiator for a couple of years. The $120 I spent on the Murray cheapo was well worth it.

If you want to get COVID-19, here's where to go. https://www.abc15.com/news/coronavirus/arizona-has-highest-rate-of-covid-19-in-the-world-latest-data-shows

I bought one of these but it looks like the price has gone up by about 100. Spendy. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/murray-heat-transfer-4283/cooling---heating-16773/radiator-20386/radiator-11357/02ac48565f9e/murray-heat-transfer-radiator/433634/4459519/1976/nissan/280z?q=radiator&pos=0

I think that you just need to know how the regulator works. The mechanism of pressure control. You can use a bypass regulator with three ports and make it do whatever you want, deadhead or bypass the carbs. That's how Aeromotive does theirs. I don't really understand how the Figure 1 regulator does its thing. I'll have to dig in to it. I do know though the pump will put out maximum pressure in that type of system, so if you have a high flow/high pressure pump in a Figure 1 setting, it's going to be working hard but pushing nowhere. Probably the noisiest possible configuration. I think these things are why the car manufacturers control the pump power with the ECU now. They lower voltage at low need, and raise it at high. Flow control.