Zed Head

Stop starting new threads. Stick with the first one you started.

Somebody on the forum probably has a solution but you'll need to provide better information. Does it die completely or just hesitate when it "stalls"? How much load? What did the shop say when they looked at it? Did they change the filter or did you? Did it run well before or is the car new to you? Not really enough to go on. Checking fuel pressure is always a good idea though.

Here's another good SU link. http://sucarb.co.uk/technical-su-carburetters

Pretty sure you'd have to have one custom-made. The nut is specially designed by Tokico to fit the top of the strut/shock and the top of the Datsun tube. Basically, three separate parts have to fit together.

Here's a more straightforward link. I couldn't click on that giant proofpoint link, too scary. Apparently the guy only had it for 9 months. Maybe a flip job. heramb dandekar. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-51/

Read the chapter in the FSM about the carbs. Or just Google SU's. They're not "normal", they use intake vacuum to raise a piston which then allows air flow. What you see on the gauge is the vacuum on one side of the carb. A higher number actually means less flow. You might have a stuck piston. They also use oil to damp the movement of the piston. They're odd mechanisms!

I think that he wants to make his own to save time. Probably fun to do also. He wants dimensions.

Did you check the wires first or just roll the dice?

The Pertronix ignition module acts, essentially, like a set of points. It makes and breaks the circuit. So you really shouldn't have to do anything special, wiring wise. If the tach is reading the current flow, there will still be current flow. If it's measuring voltage pulses there will still be voltage pulses. The problems seem to be either a matter of degree/quantity or of quality. The loop on the back of the tach is the common point for fixing the current measuring tachs. Are you just avoiding taking the tach out? Can't blame you. It's a pain. Ian at Pertronix has the answer. RCR's link in #3. I think that the voltage sensing tachs came out with electronic ignition in 1974.

Does it do anything at all. The answer might be in the fine details. I would use a meter and check any mystery wires for power and ground before connecting them to anything. You should at least be able to tell that connecting them won't fry anything.

But dealing with all of the weird numbers and formats and odd web addresses...I don't know.

Generally, the sealing process is meant for tanks with pin holes. Areas that leak. If there are no leaking areas and the metal is solid, then rust removal is probably good enough. That's the basics of it, I think. The sealing process has its own risks. One way to think about a decision.

I've found that the various valve options all will flow way way more coolant than necessary to transfer heat. I even modified the attachment point on the lever so that it would only open about half way at full open on the panel control. It is still way more than needed. When you're building your system you might add some flexibility there. Otherwise you'll only be using about 1/2 inch of travel on the panel's heat control sweep. And make sure that you get a good firm closing of the valve using the heat lever. It's the only way to get cool fresh air. If the lever is partially open you'll get some heat transfer. The options that use the vacuum **** to close coolant flow are also limited so only the heat control **** works for that. For all of the work that they put in to it it's really limited in functionality.

You got jalex'ed...

They are the same size as the wheel lug nuts. You could just use spare lug nuts if you have them.

Yes, apparently. The most common "71C" source is from a 240SX. But the 300ZX is possible also. Somewhere over the years they beefed up the gears in the 71C's, and they also added synchros. The later models have double synchros on 2nd and 3rd and a reverse synchro. I have one in the garage that I did and EuroDat has a 71C swap done also, I believe. The propeller shaft needs to be shorter, but it's been found that the very early 240Z shafts will work. Here's a couple of links showing what needs to be done. I swapped the countershaft bearing on mine, to avoid the cost of boring out the case. http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/240SX5spd/transmission.htm https://www.motortopia.com/cars/1973-datsun-240z-11118/car-pictures/240sx-transmission-swap-14041/DSC04293JPG_Thumbnail1.jpg-266482

It's all good info for the next guys.

Don't forget that the extensions used on the tester add to compression chamber volume. So you'll get a lower number if you use the big pipe extension on the tester. But, it is a California Datsun motor. Might be a P79 or P90 head on a dished piston short block. Knowing the head number/model would help the puzzle. As far as faster takeoff in first, the rear diff ratio needs to be known. And whether the 5 speed is a 280Z or a 280ZX unit.

I think that 86 uses the 71C transmission. His is the 71B. That's the heart of the topic. Here's a link that covers some of the models and year changes. http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=71-series_Transmission

That seems to be what mine are. So with a front case swap it should work. You shouldn't have to do any extra work either, bearing swaps or grinding, since the bearings and clearances should be the same. But the ratios are more like a 280Z, not a 280ZX, apparently. The Haynes manual that I have says the ratios are 3.321, 2.077, 1.308, 1, and 0.833. So a 3.54 diff ratio would be about right.

Why did you post here? Seems random.

It's a 71B. I marked the two critical measurements. One to the mount, and the other for total length. Get those and somebody can provide a comparison. I have a a couple out in the garage.

I found an old 200SX manual that I had that shows the 71B as the 200SX transmission. So if you get a Z car front case/housing it should bolt to the engine. But, as I said, it's been reported the the length might be different. So it might not be "just like" a Z car 5 speed. And, if the tail shaft housing is different the crossmember mounting points might be different, along with the exhaust system hangers. So, you could probably make it work but it might not be worth the effort.

Can you post a picture? I think there is another 5 speed that Nissan used on the lower power engines. My 1978 Datsun B210 had a 5 speed but I'm pretty sure it wasn't a 71B 5 speed. My vague memory is of a much smaller unit.

Don't forget "adjust rod length". That's the part that gets most people, for both brake and clutch.