Zed Head

be boating. We were put on this planet to extract the oil contaminating the earth's crust, and burn it. Each oil well in the world is, in essence, a mechanical zit popper. We can't stop until it's all gone. Cars, boats and planes, (and trains) are just ways to have fun while we accomplish our mission. Just a thought.

You pretty much have to remove each gauge to check the bulbs. I would find a bulb that's n the circuit and easy to reach and make sure that you have power. Check the wiring diagram, Ithink that some of the heater control lights, or maybe others, are easy to reach but on the same circuit. Check the circuit before checking the bulbs. Here's that timing advance control solenoid that CO mentioned. It lets vacuum through to the vacuum advance can on the distributor when you're in 4th gear. There's an electrical switch on the transmission. I think that it's really an emissions device. It should probably have the dashpot hose connected to it. If those hoses are messed up. your ported vacuum and constant vacuum sources might be too. Better check.

It hasn't even picked over yet by the shiny bauble hunters.

Be careful. I see a socket lurking...

Looks pretty straight, unwrecked. The gaps are good. It's close to I-5 (The 5 in California) so easy to transport. No title so have to know your state's lost title laws. A person could probably have it transported for $500 and be in it for $2000 at their garage.

The hub is center of the damper/pulley. You'd want to compare how much bolt sticks out the back with the washer in place.

Have you measured the distance pieces? They get deformed.

The damper hub is probably thicker. Don't mix them up.

Have you checked the ceiling?

Somebody trying to sell all of their spare parts in one shot. Anybody know what this thing is? Some sort of "cold air intake"?

Finding a beat up 75-78 manual transmission 280Z might be the quickest way to get almost all of the parts you need. Then a beat up 5 speed 280ZX. Then a beat up 240Z. How much yard space do you have?

I think that time and a correct tune are probably the best for cleaning up carbon deposits without taking the engine apart. There are a bunch of before and after videos out there showing that Seafoam and the others don't do much. It will bake and flake off over time. Bake and flake. Gives you a reason to drive it hard. Cleaning the carbon off. Did you take some pictures with your borescope? How bad is it?

Both good possibilities. Seems like both of those are longer than a dime's diameter though. Not sure. Need a better picture and a better description. Metal, plastic, solid, rolled...

It's on the edge of being a 72 if it was built in 10/71. What does the title show? "Better off" depends on what your plans are. If you're going to flip it then there's a bunch of options. The resto-mods seem to be doing well. If you're going to keep it and drive it then whatever you want to do is best. A "Series 2" with Series 1 parts is still a Series 2. I don't think that anyone will think that you're "ruining" an early Z whatever you decide to do. You'll be saving a Z if you get it back on the road.

I'm really only aware because it's a common problem when people do the GM HEI swap. Watching the timing light flash is how you tell if you got it right, if you don't have a good writeup. If it's steady, it's right. If it jumps around and gives an unstable idle, it's wrong. N.G. as Nissan would say.

Here's my crusty 76 280Z. It's folded all the way, you can see where the roll over starts. That's the same spot you showed but from the inside. Is yours an early 260? I've seen rumors that Nissan changed the sheet metal on the "big bumper" cars and that's another reason that they're heavier.

I think that Nissan might be going positive. If I read their description right. Funny that they don't just tell you to switch the wires if you get the dashed line.

You'll spend a lot of effort just getting the pedals and clutch lines in, and the flywheel and clutch on the engine. The mods for a 6 speed will be mostly separate from the auto to manual swap. You could even start with a 4 speed, they're pretty easy to find and cheap, then swap in an extra gear or two later. What do you mean by a "240 conversion"?

That's a good one. An unsteady timing light is the sign. The timing jumps around because the trigger point is inconsistent. That timing light is looking more valuable.

Some questions are meant more for testing the thought process than getting the right answer. It might have been an impossible task from the beginning. She could have simplified one of the complications by chocking the wheels. Tried to find an old Gary Larson cartoon about cows and physics but found this one instead.

You can just leave the dial-back lights set to zero and they act as normal timing lights. Don't forget that the extra wire on the dual pickup distributors still generates voltage. Apparently it can be pretty high voltage too. Looking for a place to go. Might want to isolate the free end.

I screwed up in my post above, it would be Red and Brown that would give you the two in series connection. Green is common. Interesting that it ran with two pickup coil pulses to the module. Seems like you might get one strong spark, then a weak one because the coil has only 6 degrees to recharge. Might be enough time at idle though. You had a "dual point" setup. Do you have the vacuum advance hose connected? Those ball bearings can get rusted and sticky. Surprised that you haven't put a timing light on it yet, but timing by ear can be fun I guess.

Here's the diagram of the distributor dual pickup wires. Looks like if you connect the two outside wires, Green and Red, (Edit - I screwed up here. The out side wires would be Red and Brown)m to your module you could get double voltage pulses maybe. Not sure. The easy way to check that you have two correct wires might be to measure resistance. If you're on one pickup coil you'll see ~720 ohms. Green is the shared wire, red and brown are the independent wires.

Can you post a picture panned out? Is it a 240Z?

Rockauto has them. Your local auto parts store might too. Spend a little extra for quality. I have memories that there are bad ones out there. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1977,280z,2.8l+l6,1209248,electrical-switch+&+relay,oil+pressure+sender+/+switch,4588 https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/lighting---electrical-16777/switches-16486/engine-switches-25047/oil-pressure-sensor-switch-12875/476acd2f2028/1977/nissan/280z?q=oil+sender