Zed Head
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Everything posted by Zed Head
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There is a bushing that goes around the rod, and the nut compresses the two washers against it and the step in the rod. The rubber bushings sit n between. The hole in the cups needs to be the size of the bushing. Do you not have the original rods? Part #23... http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/Datsun-Z-Index/Axle/Front-Suspension -
You could also use an F grind internally oiled. I think that there's a also a K out there, from the ZX's. The specs are all similar, you could probably use any cam and not notice a big difference. The atlanticz table is close, but the FSM specs show some small differences. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/cam/index.htm
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No offense intended camaro-guy, but Patcon answered your question exactly and even supplied a picture. Gotta read the responses. Good luck.
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I stored mine standing on end. Takes up less space too.
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The control cables are just pieces of stiff wire that often get bent if people try to force them when they stick. Once that happens they are shortened, plus they flex at the bend, and don't work correctly. They can be straightened and will work again if they are lubricated. You'll have to take things apart to know what the problem is.
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Have you tried tightening the filter a bit more? You can do it by hand, just use two and give it an extra quarter turn. Not uncommon, it's a large gasket. I have to give mine an extra twist occasionally, on many of the cars I've owned.
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The FSM shows that Nissan's desired accuracy was down to 0.03 mm, edit actually 0.02 mm, by their own description. The range shows that the yokes must have a very wide range of manufacturing tolerance if this wide range is needed to cover all of the yoke possibilities. The aftermarket u-joints have one size to fit inside that range.
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I had one that would bind. The car had been in an accident and I guess that the races got damaged. I rebuilt it because it was sticking in its travel, but it didn't help. Use Nissan u-joints are probably tighter than new aftermarket u-joints. Don't assume that new is better. I replaced four of them, put the shafts in the car and drove it, then took them back apart and returned them to OReilly auto. They were brand new but sloppier than the ones I took out. Precision brand. Only one of the four Nissan joints was bad but I thought that replacing all four was the thing to do. Wasted three good Nissan joints. Nissan sells precision made circlips to get the cap tolerance as tight as possible. Your best option would be four new Nissan u-joints, but that will cost you about $320.
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You might try adding balls and spacers with everything grease free, until things bind up. Might make something clear. Try it with none, and add a few at at a time until it sticks. Also consider a pneumatic lock. The air bubble at the bottom gets compressed because all of the grease is creating a seal.
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They're not there for their beauty. You will be compromising. But not much.
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Bend it to where it needs to be. If it breaks loose, fix it. If it's solid with no loose joints then it's not failing. It's just bent.
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Doesn't look you've run the tests described in the FSM or the Fuel Injection book. You need to do those tests, at the ECU connection. Even new parts can be bad. It's the first thing mentioned in hundreds of threads, so many times that we often forget to say it again. Get a meter and do the tests. The ECU could be bad also, but without testing the other parts, it's an expensive guess.
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One trick I've used to verify maximum travel of the master cylinder piston is to adjust the rod so that the clevis pin slides in to the pedal bushing with no effort. If you have to pull the pedal down or push the rod in or pull the rod out to get the clevis pin in then it's not right. While you're there you can eyeball the pin and the hole for wear. I've also used a thread to pull the clevis pin up to the hole so that I can finagle it in the rest of the way with a screwdriver. I can't get my hands up there.
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I think that number is in the "Rebuild" book. Mine is boxed up right now otherwise I'd find the page. The MSA page says 7 thousandths, but they don't give a reference for the number.
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Your instincts seem on target. Fuel pressure should climb rapidly to the FPR limit. Back (front) firing out of the intake manifold is the "lean mixture" sign. Fuel pressure leak-down means that either your FPR or your pump check valve are bad, or leaky injectors. A good system should hold pressure, at least 20-30 psi for weeks or months. Are you using starting fluid just to be sure that timing is right, in between your fuel system troubleshooting?
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Get a friend and have them push the pedal while you watch the fork move. Use 1/4, 1/2, and all the way to see if pedal = fork movement. Don't assume that new aftermarket parts are good. Many of us have had reman parts fail right out of the box. Examine the clutch fork and the way it sits on the pivot carefully. You might have some other odd problem at the fork. People often get the fork seated incorrectly but usually figure it out right away. Diseazd, please stop chewing your toe nails. You might get appendicitis.
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Core plugs. My thought on the coolant passage flushing is that you're just blowing out stuff that settled in a dead zone. No flow. You should get the "How to Rebuild.." book. Lots of good stuff in it. Also, ponder what, exactly, happens when a head is milled. Bottom alone, or top and bottom. What about cam tower alignment if the head is warped? Aren't they out of alignment also? https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/10-1151
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Sounds like a sticky thermostat. Mine used to fluctuate, even though it tested okay in hot water. A new Nissan unit gave a steady temperature reading.
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I'm going to guess it's a 280Z? The other reason for cold air is a loss of vacuum at the AC control bottle. Pretty common. Split hoses. The vacuum woter cack (water ****) is normally closed.
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Die glass filter, die! Burn in hell!!!
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I would start one thread and stay on it. You covered your fuel pump problems in a different thread but that's not mentioned here. Try starting fluid. And remember that "turn over" and "crank" mean the same thing, it's what the starter does, and that "fire" means the engine is trying to run on its own.
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I agree. I had actually written something about how his 8 to 10 minutes might actually be 3 -4 in real time. On the other hand though, there are other possible causes for that. A ballooned fuel supply line maybe. Once it expands and the pump check valve closes, it's a small reservoir of fuel. So it might be true but it's a sign of a bigger problem, a line about to explode. He should really examine his fuel lines, front to back.
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I've seen people report the engine running with the pump off before. If you have elastic rubber lines they can hold some pressure. Idle doesn't use much fuel. If it's running rich, then it will slowly go from rich to lean as fuel pressure drops. There's an assumption that fuel pressure will be zero if the pump's not running (no offense Dave), but that might not be the case. A gauge reading would tell more. The pump not running results suggest that the FPR is not the reason for the rich running. Could be a bad ECU or a stuck AFM. The other part of your first post, above, is kind of typical of either of those.
