Zed Head

I kind of lost track of your project or I would have said something. You need to make up 20 mm, ideally, not 10. Actually 22 mm, the magic number is 92 mm. Your old one must have been on the edge. At least you seem to be going the right way. Good luck.

Also, I never realized this and don't know how it's done, but, apparently, the thermotime switch is adjustable. Weird.

The ECU has nothing to do with the CSV. The CSV system is its own little separate control system, with power supplied to it and controlled via the thermotime switch. No ECU involvement, no coolant temperature sensor involvement. There is a "signal" that supposedly goes to the ECU, in the diagram, but many of us have realized that the ECU's don't have a wire to that pin. It seems to be a diagram mistake that Nissan never fixed. The thermotime switch is a thermally actuated relay that grounds through the switch body. Check the ground circuit. The wiring diagram can be confusing if you don't know that. There is power through a heater wire around a bimetallic strip, that opens and closes the relay contact points, and also power to the CSV injector. It's pretty ingenious but still looks crude. I removed my CSV and had delayed starting when it got colder or the car sat for a while. So I changed my starting procedure to giving the engine a good 5 or 6 revolutions on a first crank then letting it sit for about 20-30 seconds so the gasoline from the injectors could vaporize. Then it typically would start normally. You might try that as a test for or as a way to get by without starting fluid.

Was it set incorrectly? Gauge or sensor? They're not the same. I'd recheck your oil level, go drive it for a few hundred miles, and see where you're at.

Does the exhaust smell gassy or oily? There is a difference in odor between the two problems. What are the oil consumption numbers? If it's not leaking it's burning.

Maybe the older steel synchros.

Don't forget to look for cracks. I think that some of the attaching bolts can leak through the threads also. Seal the bolt threads.

The three way crimp splice looks like normal Nissan work, circa the 70's. Could be the dealers did it the same way. What the other wires do might be a clue to the blue wire's function. When it gets power.

Businesses will do whatever you ask them to do. I'll bet you have to sign a waiver when you get an aluminum wheel straightened. And just because the crack isn't big and obvious doesn't mean it's not there. Why did these wheels not just bend more instead of breaking? https://www.google.com/search?q=broken+aluminum+wheels&rlz=1C1SQJL_enUS862US862&sxsrf=ACYBGNQMDCvAg6Cu8S0cuZ4kPm4a15AjhA:1570667879205&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj94__nuZDlAhWVuZ4KHQaRAM4Q_AUIEygC&biw=1600&bih=757

So you bled the system and still had the problem? Did the fork bottom out on the bellhousing hole when you tried to disengage before? That would have been a clue. If you haven't put it back together yet and are just going to try another collar anyway that's your prerogative. If I read your logic right and fill in some parts you're suggesting that you have the thinnest collar, the "A" type, and need the one that's a bit thicker? Seems reasonable. Maybe those thick pressure plate assemblies need all of that travel. The newer slave cylinders with the newer pressure plates don;t use the adjustable rod anymore. Don't need it, apparently.

I put a good gob of black silicone on it and reinstalled. I never got it back in the car but I did refill it with fluid and stand it on end to cover the hole with fluid. It didn't leak.

I had one that leaked at the clutch fork pivot ball. Its hole is a through-hole to the oil-wetted area. Someone must have removed it and reinstalled it without sealant. Took me a while to figure out. Oil leaked down the fork, through the boot. There's really no way for oil to get on to the fork except from the pivot ball

I don't see where you bled the hydraulics after the swap. With no fork holding it the slave can extend and get some air in it. I'd rebleed and be sure..89.5 is pretty close to 92. 92 is not a an exact requirement. Don't go crazy. If your new plate is exactly the same as the old one and you're using the same collar/sleeve just with a new bearing, then it seems like you might have a different problem.

Your fork looks right. Get A measurement. Diseazd gave the simple straight-up picture and I linked a bunch of threads about it. 92 mm is the key. No need to guess or put things back together without knowing. Put the stack together and measure from the surface the fork touches to the bottom of the pressure plate.

You can notify people by using the @borini63

You can notify people by using the @borini63

Also. to be sure, "engage" means the engine is moving the transmission shaft, via the clutch,and the car goes. "Disenage" is what happens when you press the pedal to put the car in gear. Your pictures seemed to describe disengagement problems.

You might need a longer throwout sleeve/collar. https://www.google.com/search?q=site%3Aclassiczcars.com+92+mm+zed+head&rlz=1C1SQJL_enUS862US862&oq=site%3Aclassiczcars.com+92+mm+zed+head&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i58.35595j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

This book is easier for testing, it shows the connector in a drawing with the pins labeled. It has all of the years up to 1981. The thermotime switch has about 50-60 ohms, I think, so would fool the ECU, maybe enough to let it keep running if the sensor switch was connected there.

A hot terminal is usually just a corroded or dirty terminal Different than a hot link. Some Scothbrite and WD-40 can fix a dirty terminal. Have you checked the injector plugs for the opening and closing circuit, using a meter or test lights? You can spend a lot of time assuming. You really need to measure and observe. No offense. If the injectors aren't opening during the start cycle, that's not really a CSV problem. Could be an ECU problem or a blue wire to Pin 1 problem. It helps a lot to read the first pages of the Engine Fuel chapter so that you'll know what is supposed to happen, and when.,

Yes, your coolant temperature sensor is not connected n that picture. Easiest way to tell them apart is that one is big and one is small. The thermotime switch is big. Looks like new wires also so make sure you know which plug is for which terminal. Your engine should not run for long with that disconnected. The fact that it does suggests vacuum leaks and/or low fuel pressure.

The green fusible link might also be the headlight circuit. i think that there are two. Which one? What do you mean by "won't start"? How long do you wait before trying a second time? Need more detail. How do you actuate the CSV? Does the fuel pressure hold when the engine is off? Kind of sounds like pressure leak-down.

Found it. Your 5 speed will have some of the same parts as the 4 speeds. Check the part numbers as described...

I think that somebody somewhere produced a database years ago that all of the transmission parts companies are using. They all have the same errors. If I recall right, many of the kits are called 71A kits, when they are actually for 71B transmissions. Look at the year of the car, not the label of the transmission. Be aware though that some of the synchros in some of the kits aren't that good. There is a very recent thread where somebody described the parts that they got for a rebuild and they seemed of good quality. I think that I posted in it, which might help a search. I'll post a link if I find it. Browse around in the meantime.

With more fuel pressure there will be more fuel through the injectors. It's probably running rich now, making it run rough. But that is a common problem with these systems, and solvable. See if it will stay running after it warms up. It might die as the engine gets warm.