Zed Head

Forklift? I only know (heard/read) that L6's were used in some. Don't know about axles. https://www.leavittmachinery.com/parts/by-parts-type/rockwell-axle-parts

Why are there no pictures? Has anyone ever made aftermarket gears for the R180's? Pretty common for other manufacturers. Maybe it's an aftermarket gear set.

The rating for the red links is too high. Should be about 30 amps. It's been discussed many times. Red has replaced brown in popular Z lore for some unknown reason. Brown is lower diameter than green, as shown in the FSM over many years. Of course, it only becomes an issue if there's a short circuit.

You can check for power across the links, and measure resistance of the links. Confirm that they're bad before you buy new parts. The two green links are the EFI links as you thought, but the wiring job alone might be the problem.

Do you have the new ones or the old ones? I'm just trying to get some information. outside of the network of people who know each other. It will help sales I'm sure. Post some pictures. Give some realistic appraisals of pros and cons. It takes me ten minutes to get my car up and properly placed on jack stands.

Do you have any pictures and/or comments from an actual application? Some of the CV swap problems also involve the size of the CV joint. Interfering with other parts like anti-roll bar mounts. You mentioned the boot, but pictures and real-world stuff are usually better than descriptions. And your comments aren't on your web site. That would help. Good luck. http://www.futofab.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=211:futofab-930-cv-axle-for-datsun-z-cars-wr200-differential&catid=38:datsun-drivetrain&Itemid=122

I'd use the u-joint half-shafts that you have. Get a zerk fitting, remove the little screws and lube them up. They'll probably last another 40 years. The "CV" half-shafts are not really much better than the u-joint shafts. They're probably cheaper to manufacture, maybe why Nissan switched.

Here is Overkill https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/67320-the-start-of-the-bcustoms-z-has-begun2jz-1000hp/#comments

Bone dust? Who's crushing bones? You really should consider just buying a used engine if you just want to get it driving. There is a lot to learn before extracting power from the little L28. And a lot to do to the car to make it drivable without breaking things. You can drive it while you plan your master build. Otherwise it will probably sit, maybe for years, while you figure out how to make and use all of that power. Nothing wrong with that though, it happens.

If you're working with the pins on the bottom of the relay you might consider just taking the relay apart and watching what happens. With the top off you can easily see which wires actuate the relay coils. Several of us have found fried/burned coils inside our relays boxes. I have a picture of one that was full of rust. Just pry the tabs back that hold the top on and pop it off.

That looks like a nice setup. If I was building mine today Id probably try it. Looks adjustable but with vacuum regulation. Very nice, Where's the picture of yours?... Let us dream. http://www.radiumauto.com/DMR-Direct-Mount-Regulator-P909.aspx Looks like they sell dampers also. http://www.radiumauto.com/Fuel-Pulse-Damper-Direct-Mount-Kits-P759.aspx

You can measure and probably find a reasonable substitute. But they shouldn't really need replacement, unless they were damaged during removal. They are designed as springs, a few cycles won't hurt them.

Could also be retarded timing. Make sure timing advances with RPM. You can check that with a light, non-driving.

Check or recheck the TVS (AKA TPS). You might be missing 27% of your enrichment.

Your brain took a wheee? Was that wrong? It feels wrong.

I was going to mention this earlier. Others have noticed that some ignition switches have a break between Run and Start and others don't, I think it was early compared later. Can't remember which is which, old versus new, but I think that SteveJ @SteveJ dug in to a bit. If I recall, it was decided that it din't really matter much. Corroded connections can open up once current starts flowing and creates some heat. You've found a potential cause for your problem, or a potential cause for some melted wires in the future. Keep cleaning.

I put one in for you and Mike replied. He's on it...

There's a small mini-harness that's missing. Get a fuel injector plug (it fits the coolant temperature sensor) and some wire and some bullet connectors and make your own. You need that circuit. Older BMWs and Volvos and Saabs use the EV1 type connector, if you want to make a quick wrecking yard trip. Or there's the internet. https://www.amazon.com/Fuel-Injector-Connector-Type-Pigtail/dp/B01M0GCLZP

Maybe he's in Japan...

Did you try the Support link? It used to be on the forums page but looks like Mike moved it to its own special place. @Mike https://www.classiczcars.com/support/

There are two bullet connectors in the harness between the sensor itself and the ECU. Trace the wires back from the sensor. Measure resistance at the sensor itself. Can't tell if you did that. If your wires aren't right a new sensor won't make a difference. If the engine starts and runs with no coolant sensor reading then you probably have a bunch of "resetting" ahead of you. Other stuff has probably been messed with, most likely the AFM, or maybe there's a big vacuum leak somewhere.. The coolant temperature sensor is one of the most important sensors in the system.

And, if the metal is thin there you won't have enough to form threads if you decide to drill and tap. Just be sure you have a solid plan before you start.

Don't over-complicate things. ~14 psi coolant mixture is all it needs to seal. The bigger you make the hole the more difficult it will be to seal. You could probably put a piece of tape over it and the manifold force on top of the tape would keep it sealed. Or even just a blob of silicone as you place the gasket. It's not a head gasket leak, it's just a coolant leak.

CO is right. I picked the wrong hole. Is there a similar hole on the other side of the head? Pins for porting or gasket matching seems likely. It's shooting a nice big round stream for a corrosion hole. Seems like it was drilled on purpose.

Head might be cracked or somebody has drilled a broken bolt out of that hole and went too far. Look in the hole.