Zed Head

You'd need a separate circuit with a relay to check that bulb wouldn't you? As I understand the way it works the ground circuit for the bulb runs through a resistive element that doesn't pass current unless it's not covered by fuel. Exposed to air where it heats up and passes current. I've seen the description somewhere but haven't refound it yet. I've never seen my fuel light come on, but have pondered draining the tank to check it. My "E" seems to be set to about 13 gallons. I get too nervous to drive until the light comes on because I don't know if it works. I've wondered the same thing about the Charge light. Maybe it gets warm there.

Here's a good one in pdf format. Good old Blue246... http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electrical.htm Oddly, it's not in the CZCC Download area but it says it's a CZCC diagram. Edit - actually it is but you have to read the fine print. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/1-wiring-diagrams/

What do you mean by "backing plastic piece"? Most of the fixes end up using obscure local hardware store parts, or things from the internet, like tarp grommets. I think that you'll need to use your own ingenuity. But some pictures of what you're working with would help us generate ideas.

If I had the parts in front of me I'd put the spacer in to the hub by itself, with a solid flat piece on one end to set the surfaces. Then feel or eyeball the other side, just to see what's what. Might tell you something. I got my measurements backward, you're right, your hub is measuring too big. That's an odd one.

Your hub doesn't measure out as a B hub. Actually looks like it's out of spec. The race guys say that the hubs can get wallowed out over time. Or wallered out if you're in the south.

Easier to make fake Eibach's than KYB's. There are many stories on the internet about Eibach problems. It looks like somebody bought the name and is just putting the Eibach stamp on some new manufacturer's spring. People have to do extra work to make the car sit right. I'm surprised that people still buy them. No offense. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/57267-eibach-progressive-springs/?tab=comments#comment-515491

Are you sure the holes aren't threaded already? Maybe some PO just lost the bolts and rigged up something to get by.

Looks great. The bumper rubber looks like 1978 though. Engine management and fuel pump control are slightly different in 78. 78 has two prongs on the oil pressure sender, one prong is a switch.

That's a good point. The top of the shock shaft has to fit in to the D shaped hole in the insulator. Maybe it's cocked or they messed it up somehow.

If the cop "saw" a modified exhaust and you are hiding your trick piece, won't the DMV still see the same modified exhaust? If they do, they can probably make you pay a bigger fine, and add one on top. Seems like a big risk just for the thrill. Everybody raises their kids differently but this seems like the complete opposite of the other thread about the brake light. It's a slippery slope.

Is the bottom of the spring rotated so that the end of the spring is at the end of the groove? The top perch will rotate. Might straighten things up a bit.

Don't confuse the way the spring looks with the "bumpy" ride. Whatever bumpy means. Probably not related at all.

Don't overlook that the DMV people probably see hundreds of guys like you over the course of a DMV career. Your camouflaged wires aren't going to fool them. Conning the cops is just a bad idea, in general. I had friends in high school that used to try it and it was always a bad idea, in the long run. They spent all of their driving time looking in the mirror. Add to that that your Z won't blend in to the crowd of other cars and you're just asking for a bunch of problems. The DMV will probably see that black paint as soot from running rich and tag you as a gross polluter.

If "it isn't" then what's the worry? Just show up at the DMV, get your dB's measured and prove him wrong. If you go through all of that work even though the car "isn't" too loud, then the cop wins. Beside that if the cop sees/hears you again he's going to work twice as hard to find things wrong with your car.

Here's a fairly recent discussion on the topic, with some good outside links embedded. Building these old Datsun engines isn't the same as building an old chevy small block engine. Parts are hard to find and machine shops aren't used to working on them. With a small block chevy engine there are five suppliers for anything you might want to do.

There are some good writeups on the site about how to rebuild them yourself. Captain Obvious has posted one I think. Beside that there are many other causes for loose steering.

There's a button that seems to work now. Ignore this topic. It didn't in the past. You have to be signed in though. Then it doesn't show up in the various search results so you don't see the last comment. I just clicked it and checked.

With block modificatons. Longer stroke = more displacement = more power.

I think that the window has moved over because a roller broke or one of the rail mounts came loose. Push the window in and see what's loose. I don't that you can adjust that problem away. Something broke or a bolt or nut came loose. Edit - actually I see that the window front has dropped own, pushing the bottom of the window back. Pretty sure that you lost a roller. Sqwauk, repeat. It's a fairly common problem, they get brittle and crack.

The little plastic wheels tend to break. That's a fairly easy fix. If it's jamming that bad there's no fix for it without taking the door apart. Can you lift up on the window while working the crank handle? Don't let it get jammed on the way up.

Probably more effective to just buy an L28 and modify it. It's already bored, and has the head with bigger valves. 250 HP is asking a lot, that's about 1.5 HP per cubic inch. Like a 600 HP 400 CI engine. But people say it can be done. You'll need to go big on the cam and have the head ported, probably. 200 HP would feel like a lot though, which you can probably get with just a big cam and good exhaust system, on an L28.

If the stroke is stock L24 then you have a 2.4 liter engine. Not stroked, not 3.0. Not sure who Darcy is or why they are telling you it's a "stroker". If the valves were going to hit the cylinder walls they would have done so already. You're probably fine. L24 with N42 head. Make sure that your exhaust manifold doesn't block the N42 ports. On the other hand though, since you have somebody telling you it's a "3.0 stroker" and it's obviously not, it could be just a bunch of parts thrown together. Check the wipe pattern of the lobe on the rocker arm pads. Check head bolt torques and other critical things, to be sure it's actually a ready-to-run engine.

Very nice. 5 speed, 4 speed or automatic transmission? Good luck.

You do know that the "Western purchasers" are the companies we buy from right? The conspiracy to defraud the consumer starts here.

I've heard that antibiotics in food can make people xenophobic.