Zed Head

Probably. Which engine in the 200SX? Some of the transmissions have shorter tail shaft housings though. You might need a custom driveshaft.

Found it -

I was searching for a recent thread and came across this instead. Doesn't seem right.

There's a recent thread about the clutch pedal clevis pin and the holes. Can't find it. You might read up on that before you start. That area is not one you'll want to visit twice.

The breaker plate is easy to get off, it's just two screws and it pulls right off the top, after you pry the reluctor wheel off with a big screwdriver.. You don't even have to remove the pickup coil. then you can look through the gap at the bearings. If they 're not bad some oil and easy working by hand might break them free. 246 Blue atlanticz had a writeup for a ZX that shows some similar parts- http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributorrebuild/index.html If the ball bearings are iffy they can get stuck when they move and your timing will get weird. It could stay advanced. Of course, you could just leave the vac advance hose off.

I often pondered renting a U-Haul to move a Z, when I was shopping for one. They'll fit inside one of the larger box trucks. I would have had to build ramps to roll it up and in and might have had to fashion some tie-down points inside but I think it would have been doable. I don't have a specific company in mind but make sure that they know how to transport old unibody cars. Using wheel straps instead of tow hooks and other details like that are important to avoid damage.

Remove the breaker plate from that distributor and check the ball bearings for rust. They're probably stuck to the rolling surface. If you take it apart and clean it out now you might be able to save the bearing cage that typically breaks when vacuum is applied after sitting and rusting. It's a three-handed job to get the little wire clip on and off but it's doable. Take pictures or make a diagram I've taken a few apart that were reassembled wrongly. It's a puzzle.

I did. Compared to other models though, like a Chevy Nova, there doesn't seem to be much of a market, especially since Tokico was already in there. It was more of a historical thought. In today's world, most of those old solid companies have gone bankrupt or been incorporated in to bigger companies. Federal Mogul seems like the result. Once those brand names get under the big umbrella anything can happen I think. Look at the names here - https://www.fmmotorparts.com/

I have a 1978 blower motor, in good shape, if anyone needs one. Took it from a parts car. Cleaned the mouse nest out, powered it up, and it spins fine, no noise.

I wonder if the Wagner cylinder is a reman, so they covered the "Made in" mark. I'm fairly certain that my rusty piston is original Nissan. So, in 1978, probably made in Japan. Seems odd that Wagner made molds and had a process for casting Nissan replacements, for a fairly limited number of vehicles. Things were different back then, I guess.

So this has no value to you now? I've been saving it. Just curious - where were those parts made. Should be shown on the box.

I agree that it is inherent to the design. That's why Nissan recognized the problem in 1973. I would assume that they had professional engineers work on the solutions that they proposed also. Just saying...they didn't publish that document for amusement. If those proposed solutions don't work then I think it's reasonable to look changes in fuel formulations. The fundamental problem is the same as for the EFI engines. Too much heat for the fuel. Many possible solutions, some not so pretty. A fun problem though.

The problem here is not "vapor lock". It's percolation. It's described in the Nissan document. The solution will come from the fine details, I think. As far as fuel goes, don't overlook winter blend versus summer blend. This has nothing to do with ethanol. It's a formulation change designed to make engines start faster and run better when they are cold, by increasing the volatility of the blend. For emissions purposes.

4 1/2 year necro post started it all. 4 1/2 months and 26 pages later...it continues. The internet.

Here's that other thread. It has a video.

If you're still in gear with the car rolling and the clutch engaged (wheels turning the engine), and the tach doesn't match engine speed that's a sign of no spark. The tach is just a spark counter. I was posting in another thread recently about the Fireball system. If you have the optical trigger under your distributor cap in place of points then some trickery will be necessary if you want to keep avoid getting a new distributor. Or you can just get a 280ZX distributor. Or a 123 ignition system. Many options.

What does your tachometer do when it "stall"s at high RPM? Does it drop like a rock even though you're in gear? Might be an ignition problem. You have one of the early electronic ignition systems.

I assumed that these things were in line with the filter in my other post. Maybe not. What the heck are they?

Yes, you'd want the 3.9 R200 if you don't want to work the clutch until you get the other parts. Don't overlook the opportunity to do clutch maintenance. Overall, the clutch, transmission, and rear end work are simple, just big parts to work with.

You have access to install an in-tank pump, and improve on the stock baffling. The 280Z tanks are known for a poor baffle design that leads to fuel starvation on left hand turns when the tank gets down below 1/3 full. Consider.

Funny, I saw the AC comment and completely missed the first post. Didn't click. To add to and follow SteveJ's comment, replace those filters. With just one. Each filter adds a pressure drop, even when clean. Pretty sure I see three in serial. That's a lot of work for the fuel pump.

The ZX's don't have a mustache bar, Nissan changed the mounting with the body style. I have a spare mustache bar but don't have the dog bone.

I've installed the engine and trans together, it's not difficult, just bulky. A load leveler would help a lot. My biggest problem was lifting the tail of the transmission up to get the crossmember under it. Since then I've learned about pulling it up from inside with a rope. The 2+2 parts should fit fine except that you'll need a 280Z mustache bar and "dog bone" for the diff. The dog bone is what people call the brace between the two suspension mounting points in the back. It's curved to make room for the larger R200. You could do the transmission first and the diff later. There's always more to do...

It's easier with a good transmission jack. Removing the engine will add much more difficulty to the whole project. There are some tricks you can use, like cutting the heads off of extra long bolts and running them in to the mounting holes to use as guide pins. Use the cars scissor jack to move the back of the engine up or down, for fine orientation. Make sure the clutch disc is perfectly centered, don't use a loose clutch alignment tool. Stuff like that. Not too hard to get done.

Did your mechanic tell you that? Power band is controlled more by cam profile and/or cam timing.