jwtaylor

My clutch pedal pivot is severely worn and needs replacement. The problem that I am having is that the bushings for the clutch and brake pedal are NLA from Nissan , or least I have not found any. My idea is to replace the metal bushings with a bushing machined out of Delrin or possibly Teflon . It would be a one piece bushing drilled to 12MM for the pivot bolt and the OD sized to be a press fit into the clutch pedal tube (about .75"). Any thoughts if this will work, would wear be a problem? Any input would be appreciated.

That looks like rust where the bushing slips over the control arm. Some PB Blaster etc. in there will help, let it set upright so it will soak in. Grab the rubber with pliers and twist. I had one with Poly bushings that was a bear to get off because of the rust. Heat will also help if you get rid of the rubber first.

Move the spray side to side at a fast pace (more of a misting coat) and keep the spray can distance away from the surface as recommended on the can. I have used the SEM Texture Coat and the Polyvance texture coat, multiple light coats work best for me to get an even texture.

I just wish you could trust the add copy. Most likely the person writing is is not that familiar with the car.

I noticed a couple of things on the engine that have been changed/modded. Valve cover appears to be polished, Intake balance tube has items removed and it has some kind of throttle linkage modification, oh, and air pump is missing. Nice looking car, but for that money I would like everything to be stock and inplace.

I seem to recall at some point seeing that a washer (copper or bronze) was added to help reduce noise? or ??? Maybe that was in the differential though - memory not what it used to be.

My car had one fiberglass and one steel headlight bucket when I got it, it's a early 71 240 that was built 12/70. It now has two steel ones after a lady backed into me in a gas station. The buckets were/are interchangeable across the years and are not a good way to date a car. A good web sight for some data on the 240's is zhome.com Look for the "Classic Z Car Register" Quite a few people have registered their cars and you can look for VIN #'s close to yours to get a build date.

Does it have a build tag in the drivers side door frame? It will give you a build date if it's there. Number 149747 would place it somewhere in February of 1973 I believe. It was common on '73's to put the round top carburetors on them to help with vapor lock problems that the 73's had with the emission carbs known as flat tops. Also I have never heard that there is a difference in the headlight buckets for the 240's or 280's for that matter.

I was thinking about putting a wrap on my Z but realized, after doing a paint adhesion test, that the paint needed to come off and be redone. The respray before I bought the car was poorly done. Life of the warp also seems somewhat limited, more $$$ material will last longer, less $ gives you a few years at best. I decided if I was doing all the work to get to a good starting surface for the vinyl I might as well do it correctly and paint it.

Screw Self Tapping M3.5 if I'm reading the fiche correctly.

Can you remove the lock ring , gas cap and rubber flap and take a picture of the area. It doesn't look like it's assembled correctly to me. There could be a crack in the filler neck that is hidden also.

I have removed my doors and disassembled the hinges from my 12/71 car. The spring has an ID of 0.815", OD of 1.077", free length of 2.082" and the wire size is 0.129". McMaster-Carr part number 9620K31 is close with an OD of 1.031", ID 0.781", a length of 2.5", with a wire size of 0.125". It will need to be cut down length wise and ground flat. The larger problem is all the pins for the interleave ends are worn, not to mention that all the pivot points in the flat bars are badly worn. The pins are quite a bit smaller than on the later hinges. At this point I'm going to get new springs from Mcmaster-Carr for these hinges and see if they will work OK. Pins will just have to be what they are. I have a set of what are supposed to be 1973 hinges also, that I will rebuild to put on the car. There is a modification that will need to be done to get them to fit, you need to grind away some of the metal on the hinge (see the photos). This will allow the hinge to set correctly and not hit on the door structure. The orange hinge is the 12/70 hinge, the white is the '73. it's ground off at about a 45 degree angle from the mounting surface.

Well this went quicker than I thought it would. This is the worst of the rust that was under the mat. Surface only, not bad at all. And a photo of all the tar residue cleaned off. It came off pretty easy with the Fein multi-tool - even with the 70 degree weather today.

I have decided to strip it. If Nissan / Datsun had at least primed the metal before they installed the tar mat I would be more tempted to leave it in place. I used a oscillating scrapper on the trans tunnel. That worked well to remove the mat that was still well attached to the metal,

I've been working at getting my 240Z ready for paint. I have stripped the tar mats off the passenger area floors and trans tunnel. The question is should I also strip the rear area, the reason I'm asking is as you can see in the photo's there are no signs of rust in the hatch area. The rest of the car has only minor rust. Two small spots of rust in the driver's floor, one about the size of a quarter and the other area of pinholes about the size of a dollar bill. The dog legs on both sides need work, the rear corners of the front fenders have been replaced already. I'm tempted to strip it but seems like a lot of extra work that may not be needed.

I am going to get the dimensions of the coil and look for a replacement. Got to get busy and pull the doors first though.

Those are the same ones I have. I bought them through ebay instead of amazon. You can get a set of 4 for all the hinges. These look more like the original pins than the other options..

No, both sides are the early interleaf-type. The drivers side is missing the spring. I recently bought some '73 hinges and may just switch to them, but I have read that there is a problem with the bottom hinge pivot point being shifted making the bottom of the door stick out more than it should. I will be doing some comparisons between the two types before they get changed if they even do.

My 12/70 build 240Z has the doors drop about a quarter to a half inch when opened. I bought the new hinge pins and bushings but have not installed them yet. I will try to remember to update this when I get to rebuilding them. I am missing one of the springs, so I need to solve that also.

My jack is stamped S D X, which is April 24 1973 if I'm doing the decode correctly. My car build date is 12/70 and I know that the engine was swapped to a '73 sometime before I bought it. So it looks like the jack helps date the engine, if it came from the same car.

Razor blade works great. The paint on my car is so dead and sun burnt it is much quicker with the razor than sanding. Stripped the top, both doors and hood in about an hour and a half. I use a blade holder from the paint department of one of the box stores.

I'm pretty sure that is a wrap. I recall seeing that picture when I looking into doing a wrap on my 240. They have some pretty good looking wraps available any more, but you need good paint under them. So I when back to just doing the paint.

I do not see the carburetor float bowl overflows shown on those diagrams. They connect from the float bowl tops to the air cleaner. Good to have them in place, it the carbs overflow a lot of fuel will be dumped on the exhaust and there could be a fire.

I've seen those also. I always have thought they were the semi gloss black. I also think you would still see some of the zinc in the area between the hub and brake drum if they were zinc coated.

Does it do the same thing no matter which stub axle you try? Is it just the photo, in post #17, above look like look like the axle on the left is bent - could be a photo perspective problem - but looks off to me.