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Everything posted by FricFrac

  1. I've designed and built several Mega Squirt harnesses for various Datsun projects. I'm an Electronics Engineering Technologist so I've designed these harnesses for optimal noise immunity with high grade wiring to provide you with a highly reliable backbone for your Mega Squirt EFI system. Electronic noise can cause all sorts of gremlins in your system. To eliminate these issues all harnesses are configured with a robust grounding system as well as shielded cabling for all sensors. The wiring is heat and chemical resistant to provide you with years of trouble free use. EV1 connectors for t
  2. Just got some new connector kits in. I would like to donate the proceeds from the next two kits sold on this forum (minus $10 shipping) to World Vision - a charity I strongly believe in and have supported since I was a little kid. I would encourage you to consider supporting them as well and/or researching charitable organizations of your choice to make sure the majority of your donations go to those in need (Charity Navigator!).
  3. Just an FYI to add to the thread. Great Stuff has a low expansion foam for windows and doors that would probably work better for this particular application.
  4. I picked up another WB02 yesterday (didn't want to pull the one out of my 280ZXT MS3 setup). Haven't installed it yet but... I found the problem. The starters have a spring on them between the top plate and bottom plate and a circlip that keeps them from coming up off the shaft under the spring pressure. I made sure to align the tooth that seats onto the inner portion of the starter but the spring was pushing the top of the starter up too much and the tooth was disengaging. I'm getting a solid idle now - thanks guys! Bang on MadKaw! Now to tuning
  5. Thanks guys - the wheels are turning now. I think the jetting is fine - it ran fine before I pulled the carbs off for a rebuild. The starters sound like they have the potiential to let significant air in to bring the RPMs up that high. I think a leaky throttle shaft wouldn't be that significant. I was pretty carefull with the linkage but I think I'll disconnect it all to take it out of the equation. I also left the booster hooked up on #6 so I'll disconnect that as well. I don't have a manonmeter but I did build my own with 6 MAP sensors like they use on the Mega Squirt ECUs. I works fi
  6. I just rebuilt my triple Mikuni PHH 44s reinstalled and set the pilot screw to it's original setting of 1.25 turns out from bottom. The butter fly valves are completely closed and it will idle around 1000 RPM(ish) then it will idle right up to 2.5 to 3K RPM after a minute or so. That's with the starters turned off. If I play with the butter fly valve opening (idle set screw) and turn in the pilot screw to about 3/4 it seems to run but its rough. I haven't balanced it out yet. I'm trying to understand what's going on so a little direction on my misunderstandings would be great. My underst
  7. He'll probably want the manuals from www.xenons130.com instead
  8. I'm pretty close to a finished product with the S130 harness. I'll get to the S30 harness when I get a chance and keep you guys posted. For those waiting on backordered kits I have the S30/S130 kits in and I'll be doing an Z31 kit as well for those of you who have the Z31 ECU swap (or a Z31 ).
  9. I am currently building a custom MegaSquirt harness for my Mega Squirt III setup on my car. I build an adapter to interface into the stock harness to get everything up and running as close to stock as possible. Once I had that working well I pulled all the stock harness out and I'm just about done building a new harness to directly plug into the MS3 ECU with MS3X for sequential injection and distributorless ignition. It interfaces directly with the stock body harness so you don't need to cut your harness up and can easily return the car to it's stock form. The stock engine harness is basi
  10. The stock engine harness is basically garbage. I have yet to see an original one where the shielding on the Dizzy side is still in good condition but given that it's exposed to the elements it's not fair to expect it too be. There is basically no shielding on anything other than the O2, the fuel pump control (don't care with MS) and the dizzy. An auto engine bay is full of EMI that can cause problems with any electronic fuel injection system. Look at a 240SX wiring diagram and you'll see that the manufacture shields almost all of the sensors. I've been researching a few other after market engi
  11. Haha - of that $80K $56K is for climate controled storage - the guy says the previous owner drove it home and parked it in his garage for 21 years. I guess he was charging himself $150 a month for 21 years. Must work for the Government to come up with numbers like that. I'd rather have the Porn Star Red or the hideous Blue interior than that brown. That's one lesson we learned from the 80's. If it was a turbo then he might have something ;P
  12. I can definately do harness repair. I would think shipping back and forth would be expensive though. Right now I'm making a custom wiring harness for S130 for plug and play MegaSquirt setup then I'll be developing an S30 kit as well.
  13. *** Please note I've had to make some minor adjustments to the kit pricing unfortunatly. The kit will increase from $50 to $55 to cover Paypal fees and Air postage which cuts shipping time in half or less as well as insurance. In addition I've had a few requests for some other options with the kit. For those who would like a trackable insured shipment there is an additional $15 fee (and I believe shipping time is reduced to 4-6 days). If you don't feel comfortable soldering pin to wire I can add pigtails (a six inch piece of wire coming out of the connector) so you can solder wire to wire
  14. I'll make a video on how to wire in the pig tails and water proof those but it will be a little while before I can get to that. I'm getting everyone's orders ready to mail out as my number one priority.
  15. Ok I made a little video up to give you some pointers on repairing your wiring harness. I did the AFM which is the most complicated of the ones we'll be replacing. It's a little embarasing because I messed up the connector trying to keep the video time short but I left it in. It's a good reminder to make sure you've got everything in place before you solder or crimp your connector on. I do this sort of work all the time and I should know better - shows you what happens when you rush. Anyhow if you have any questions the video doesn't answer feel free to ask!
  16. Those will work. The die is the right shape but the crimpers I use have a set of six for the wire and a set of six for the insulated portion of the pin. I recomend crimping and hitting them with solder but just enough to bond to the pin and wire not a blob and not enough to run up the wire into the insulated portion. I can add a pig tail to the connectors for those who aren't comfortable soldering the wire to the pin
  17. I've managed to source connectors for the stock engine wiring harness for the early FI S30 and S130 cars. I'm just posting here to see if anyone else would be interested in a kit and I'll order in some extras. The kit will include nine EV1 connectors for the fuel injectors, cold start valve, idle air and thermal switch, a three pin connector for the TPS and the seven pin AFM connector. I'm redoing all the connectors on all my harnesses and I ordered in extra connectors for a few members on the forum who requested a kit. Price will be $50 shipped in US/Canada. There is well over $100 worth of c
  18. It's fairly straight forward actually. Go to www.xenonz31.com and download the FSM. Go to the BF section and all the hook up information for both the partial and full power seats are listed there. Basically all the complexity is built into the seat and you need to supply a good ground and +12V fused from the ignition switched side (unless you want power to the seats with the ignition off). There is a circuit breaker - not sure if it's in the seat or not but if you look at the back of the EL section it should tell you where it's located.
  19. I was going to watch this until I saw some pictures. What a joke. It's really an example of stick with what you know. The guys that built the white car are tallented but not tallented enough to move away from muscle cars. That would have been fine as a prop for a Dr Seuss movie... seriously what were they thinking?
  20. That's like comparing apples to squirt guns.... there are no parameters.... yes a Mustang will beat a Z and a Z will beat a Mustang.... which one were you thinking of...??? The Mustang 5.0 will do 0-60 in 4.3 whereas the stock 370Z will do it in 4.7 but who cares? I'd rather go around the corners or parked in the garage with a 370Z than have a Mustang. They are a dime a dozen and the looks haven't been updated for 15+ years, interior looks like a 60's car and don't they still have a live rear axel? Sure its a cheap fun car but I'd like a little more refinement in a new vehicle....
  21. The MSA bodykit is a comprimise of keeping the stock bumpers but compressing the dampners to pull the steal bumper in. If you want some sort of chrome bumper it's going to have to be custom and it's going to be very expensive. Possibly having something fabricated from polished stainless steel heavy gauge sheet metal is probably the best comprimise. Getting something fabed up then having it chrome plated is going to be very expensive. You might want to check the shaved rear end on the S130. There are quite a few examples once you start searching around. Honestly it would be way cheaper to
  22. Every fluid in the car - not just the oil... new tires...
  23. Unfortunately S30 guys the S130 is on the rebound. I had one 18 years ago and no one could care less about them then. Now my project S130 get just as many looks as my fully restored '72 240Z. I get stoped at traffic lights, cross walks, parking lots, etc - anywhere the car and people are in close proximity. Problem with the S130 is that they seem to be worse than a ten year older S30 for rust. So although they made A LOT of S130 (because they were undeniably popular in their time) not many have survived. They are less common on the roads than an S30 because no one use to put much effort
  24. Yes the current limiting resistors limit the current. They do of course act as a voltage divider as well since your injectors have a resistance that is in series with the resistors so you will get a voltage drop across the resistor and across the injector. Problems with AFM's (and current limiting resistors for the injectors) are often bad contacts. Make sure you have a good clean contact between the two and that the clip for securing the AFM is in place and you aren't just relying on the friction from the pins to hold the AFM connector on. The resistor pack can have the same issues as well
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