Zedyone_kenobi

BRAVO! Just beautiful, these cars need nothing to look right, and you prove that with every picture you post!

Well my thoughts are with you MJr. Nothing prepares you for your dad, mentor and friend passing away. I still really miss him.

That means more than you know coming from you Frank. Thanks very much! I will post more videos of my car once I get the Webers dialed in. Actually, you just gave me an idea for a new thread!! new air correctors have been ordered!! I picked up some 160's, which is a smaller size than my 170s' which should be allow my mains to come in a tad faster.

Thanks hunter, love that blue color on yours!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/sdamico/7101921511/in/set-72157605246065883/?likes_hd=1 hope this works! And this is the old gal at the local Friendswood texas annual car show, where she took 2nd in the pre 1979 import class. Yeah. Lost to a stinking 1954 beetle with about 50k in modifications to it. one ugly beetle. But I did beat a nice turbo 912

I will have to go look. E something. I will find out right after I get my needle photos

Yup, the wideband is spot on the best investment you can make with triples. I have been reading more of Francks info, and I do not think I need to go bigger on my primary jet. I am running a 130 now, and from everything I have seen that is large for 400cc of cylinder. I may have too large of an air corrector which directly effects how much vacuum it takes to move the fuel up the emulsion tube cavity. It is more of a vacuum controlled bleed off. Franck says NEVER use the air corrector to correct the AFR on the top end directly, that is the main fuel jets job. But the air corrector will control when the main circuit comes in.

DOH! I had forgotten. I am so sorry.. Yes, i will get you those ASAP buddy.

LeonV Video is coming Saturday! I have to get my Go Pro working again. After I find it. Where ever it is... I may just use the iphone! Its HD and my go pro is not. Also I am not using the white PTFE tape Leon. I have some aviation yellow pipe thread tape. IT says it is fully compatible with silicones, hydraulics and petroleum products. So I hope I am okay. I have a hard time getting NPT fittings to NOT leak. I only seem to have about a 70% success rate regardless of how hard I torque them. Mike, GREAT thread, and my pooling is very minor right now. Almost a non issue. But I have the air horns that slide all the way into and around the venturi (or is it the choke). I have the 151's DCOE I am pretty sure I need to up my main jet. I was reading Mr Franks paper and at low rpm (2000 rpm) in 4th gear holding the throttle steady my AFR were right at 14. He recommends 12.5, and I tend to agree with him on that. I am currently running a 130 main and 170 air corrector. My overall driving is darn near flawless. I do have a hint of a hesitation on the progression around 1800 rpm, but I mean it is slight, and not consistent. I think I am only a few jets and a few twists of the screws to have a perfectly fine running set of webers. Really the more I read, the more I think the hesitation issue in mid rpm thing is blown out of proportion. It seems a perfectly logical thing to tune out. My car was darn near running perfectly 30 minutes from first starting it. The Webers are do darn Logical. I absolutely LOVE them. Before I mess with jets though, I am going to verify fuel level of the floats. Not sure if I am going to do it the weber way, or the Mr. Frank way. I do not know where to get a piece of acrylic that small.

Loving the engine bay shots!!!

I love these carbs!!!!

That occurred to me Doradox, and your right, I would not come off 14 Deg BTDC. I plan to run about 17 on the new motor with a re curved dizzy or a mallory. I just need to figure out the jetting now. I am still getting a lean stumble when I jab the throttle as fast as I can at low rpm. This is normal for the most part as the intake velocity is not optimum, but I have not done any pulls while monitoring the wide band yet. I am just do thrilled to have a car that is happy to rev and drive and sound so amazing. The midrange is a definite improvement over the SU's. It feels very strong! I am still playing with the linkage and spring tension to get it where I like it. It is all about angles! I still get a bit of pooling on my heat shield, but I think that only happens when I slam open the throttles and the engine falls flat. I mean it makes sense. I am dumping gas into the main circuit via the accelerator pump while the intake velocity drops to nil. Where else is the gas going to go but out of the carb?

Nah, Bruce has done enough good for enough guys on this board that he owes me nothing. I asked him to do the impossible. When I sent my SU's to him, I asked him to solve a problem with my carbs when they are mounted to a different intake and engine. That is a tough call. No telling what it could have been. But I still think Bruce and Steve at Ztherapy are top notch guys and would stand behind their product 100% of the time. Maybe it was my intake. Now I am left with tuning a set of Webers and I could not be happier. I drove them to work this morning, and they ran great! I still cannot just jab the throttle as fast as my foot can go, as the suck air, but I can tune around all of that. This problem is solved, but not knowing exactly what it was with the SU's bugs me. I will just drain the SU's and wrap them in plastic, and put them in a box. SHame as they are so darn beautiful.

Junk is a strong word. They were just not happy on my engine for whatever reason. I still LOVE SU's and their simplicity and their ease of tuning. I think they are elegant and a great OEM carb.

Don't know what idle is right for webers. I have read about 900 rpm is normal. I had no surge on my Ztherapy SUs bud. I did have surge on my original carbs. The surge I believe comes from worn throttle linkage rods. Still the cable feels great!

Webers are on and the car is running. (see post in carb forum for full details) Long story short, let me say this clearly... NO MORE PART THROTTLE POPPING I will sacrifice a Datsun OEM thermostat to the WEBER carb gods.

Drove the car today. WHAHOOOOO I first disconnected the linkages from the throttle bar on each carb. Then I unscrewed progression hole cap. I adjusted each throttle plate so that none of the first hole was uncovered, but was just going to be uncovered upon first movement of the throttle shaft. I then unscrewed the idle mixture screws one full turn as a way to get the car to idle at all with only a 1/4 or 1/2 turn from fully seated. THe car settled into a nice 1100 rpm idle once fully warm. I could not fit my new synchronizer on the air horns as there is just no room, so I ordered the snorkel for it today. So I used my unisyn. Now as you know Weber guys, the only way to increase or decrease air flow into the car is to move the throttle shafts. BUT that may uncover a progression hole. My solution to this was to start over and adjust all the idle speed screws so that I had a little more play area before I uncovered a progression hole and then start to sync the air flow. Well long story short, I got them all pretty close, but my unisyn varies from run to run, so I am going to stop fiddling with air flow until I can use my real tool. First drive, I was ultra lean. I would go completely dead with any application of the throttle at all. Like shutting down the engine all together, and my wideband would read 20:1. OUCH. So I adjusted the idle mixture screws a half turn at a time until I was reading about 12:1 at idle. Then I set out on my next drive. WOW, I was thrilled with the response. Pulls very nicely. I was almost scared to rev it with part throttle to my 4500 rpm point. But I did in second gear and it was smoooooooooth. Let me reiterate. I have ZERO popping through my exhaust at 4500 rpm at part throttle. My only problem now is that I do not have the pedal adjusted correctly, as I never get full throttle. I will need to get my wife out there to help me do that. But the car needs no choke at all to start from cold. I have not even checked the timing, but the driveability is amazing. THe sound.. heee..heee.. I am still smiling. I just wish I could get them to idle lower. I am stuck idling at 1000 rpm now. I will play with that idle speed circuit again when I have more time. But she is running and looking great. Oh I discovered slow leak on my fuel filter added before the pump by the tank! DRAT. I should have used teflon tape on those fittings. And now the pics! I took off that filter holder just for you Carl!

UPDATE: I got the car running last night. I have not balanced them yet, but it starts and idles very easily. I do not think my return spring is strong enough though. It idles smoothly, but does not idle any lower than 1400 rpm. But I have today to work on that. I will start by getting the air flow balanced then work on getting the air fuel correct. I can see the balancing act here. YOu want to get the carbs balanced with the idle low enough while not uncovering the first progression hole. It is a very interesting set of interdependencies... I am really looking forward to this. I am VERY happy I have a wideband O2 installed right now!!

Looks like an absolute blast man! Good on you for enjoying that Datsun. Makes me look forward to the rally I have coming up in November. Also, you just convinced me to pick up a camera to video some of my runs. I have an old GO Pro wide, but it is not HD an the sound on it just sucks.

Is that a defect blue, or is just an inherent Weber 'thing' I will keep an eye on it.

Okay, I could not sleep, so I got up and took the car off jack stands and adjusted the fuel pressure to 2-2.5 psi, and let the pump run for about 30 seconds. Zero leaks from anywhere. I am going to set the idle mixture screws to 1.5 turns out, the idle speed screws to 1/2 turn from contact with the throttle, and have a go today after work!!! Wahoo, this is getting exciting! Well maybe I should put those springs in the bottom of the carbs holding the heat shield instead of a washer... hummm, okay after that it is vroom vroom time.

Thought about it laying in bed this morning. I have the rear of the car jacked up quite a bit so that may be the cause of my leak. I will check today

That is awesome! Thanks Leon! UPDATE: I figured out my return spring situation, and for now I am happy, but I forsee a much cooler solution in the future using the fuel rail. However, that is hooked up. I fired up the CARTER pump, and yes, it is a bit loud, but once the car is running I do not think it will be an issue. I had a leak at the pump I had to tinker with to get to seal. Finally found some yellow teflon tape approved for fuel and it sealed it up tight. Absolutely NO AN fitting leaked on ounce, so that is money well spent. I had no other fuel leaks save one. I noticed some fuel on my heat shield... and then noticed that number two carb was dripping a bit. I had the pressure up to 3 psi at the time. Holley reg works with ease. I am guessing my float could be off, which would not surprise me, as absolutely NOTHING has been right yet with this install. Every single thing required some form of modification to work. So I am guessing that in order to check the float, I have to pull the top cover off. Before I set out and do a huge search, is there a quick way to set the float?

Referencing Arne's recommendation. I had the centercaps in a drawer while this was taken. but I have some 15x7 panasports sitting in boxes ready to be shipped as we speak! Make offer.

You can set up a crank trigger ignition for 399 dollars? I did not know that. I am running a recurved factory dizzy at the moment, no vacuum advance. I was thinking of going mallory as well, but will hold off on pulling that trigger until I have the carbs more in tune. Never change that many things at once! You never want to second guess your carbs AND your ignition if you have a choice.