Zedyone_kenobi

Lets take a moment to pause here. Your walking around gather good bits of knowledge but you have no idea how to use them. People are being generous with advice, but you have to tell us what the car is going to be used for. That, your budget, and your skills at doing detailed assembly/disassembly. Right now you are a parts suppliers dream. A person with no direction who whats to buy lots of parts with the dream of having a fast Z. You have to be realistic with your goals, your wallet, and your expectations. You need to ask yourself, how long can this car sit. Is it my daily driver, or can it remain non operational for months. We need answers to these questions.

All music to my ears. I was thinking I would send a large order of parts to be powercoated and cad plated, while I am there.

Carbs shipped today. Looking forward to this VERY much.

Where would one source this uber Graphite gasket. I know the exact ones your talking about. Would Felpro make one.

yup, I sent the intake and balance tube off to be polished and smoothed as well. THe whole kit and kaboodle is getting the treatment.

Well I am over the top excited to be getting a set of 4 screw SU's done by Ztherapy! I kept my current set of carbs on the car as to have a good set to baseline all my readings, then I can get the new SU's on start tuning. I know the quality of the products put out by ZT, I am looking forward to getting them on, but any advice and things I should do first. Also any helpful advice on pitfalls in removing the intake? Thanks! Signed one excited Z car owner.

Sounds like you should go with a dedicated mechanical advance dizzy. You can get it curved to suite your needs.

Great wheels/tires , what are you running?

That is stunning, and just makes me want to do my baseboards and paint even more!!!!

It is an honest 2-3 day job. 3 for sure if you use the clear coat. Of course I waited a bit longer than I had to between coats, but not much longer. I put my coating on my garage floor before I even moved in. The house was new, so I had virgin concrete. The kit comes with a muratic Acid etch to rid yourself of the oily mess. You just keep repeating that until when you spray water on the stain it does not bubble. The instructions are very easy and I love the results. I am not sure you could half the job. The epoxies are all two parters, and the cans are sized to be poured together. You would have to eyeball the mixes and hope you get them the same. You may want to call UCoatIt and ask. I would advice doing it all at once if possible. I know that may be impossible.

I would have to measure. What you do is calculate how many square feet you have and go to the UCoatIt website. You input your square feet and they calculate how much product you need exactly, and size your order accordingly. And I can vouch they hit it VERY close, and give you a tad extra so you can give it a good thick coat. I forget how many square feet I input. But I have a big 3 car garage.

You bring up a good point, thats why I want to use vinyl. Its easy to get off if I have to. But I do not see myself moving anytime soon. Just bought the darn house!!!

Sure.. Its a 3 car garage, 2 wide and one side is 2 deep. I think the Ucoatit kit I got had the prep, base coat, and I got the gloss coat. I think the total was a tad over 500 bucks. But the results are wonderful. I would recommend spending the time and money on doing an epoxy coat on your floor rather than paint. Clean up is amazingly easy. Not a drop of anything gets through the floor covering. Its fantastic. It also feels softer on your feet than concrete. Which is a great bonus when your on your back for a while.

I am very proud of my UCOATIT garage floor...and my garage in general. But I would like to take it up a notch to make it more showroom and give it that finished look. What I am wanting to do is put a large Datsun or 240Z decal on the floor in vinyl. Where can I get an accurate graphic of one or both of these that I can get blow up to about 2 ft x 4 ft

My gosh those look beautiful! Love the dark color. I may have to sell my panasports.

NOpe, I have 4 years to get ready...Judging by the amount of money and time I can throw at this, I think it will take me 4 years to save the coin to do this.

Thats actually a great idea. If I plan to race, it may be a better solution than hacking up my car. But if I only want to do the touring, then I would most definitely take my Z up there!

Mr Mortensen your correct. The neck down is a very high stress riser. When the bolt is torqued, the necked down portion is already preloaded in tension. When the Tension rod moves up and down, it compresses the bushing with the large washer. The washer acts against the hard rubber and I could see how that could produce a cantilever and put the beam in bending. Sounds like a first year machine design problem... now I am getting excited!

I read that, and I am not too worried about it. For ever report that they snapped, there were just as many that said they had been running them for years. I think that the extra load probably had something to do with it, but I would wager that a TC rod would have to be already flawed to break. A minimum strength for steel I found was 1018 annealed steel, with a yield strength of 32000 psi (just looking at the first reference I had). If the rod would fail due to tension we can use this number. Figure the rod is 3/4" round along its length, it would take around 24000 lbs. I would need to see where they are failing and what the grain structure at the crack initiation site looks like to see the mode of failure. If it failed at the neck down to the threads or near the bolt holes that hold it to the control arm, that would mean a totally different loading environment and I would need to look at that differently. Also the amount of suspension travel would heavily influence the result as well, as it would indicate the size of the fully reversing load (fatigue perhaps). It would also be nice to know what it was actually made of, its heat treat specification etc. I think the failures are real, but I think the super hard bushings aggravated an existing condition that led to these failures, rather than them being the root cause.

I think every car in the entire world has those rims on thim in the 80's, we called them sawblades.

I recently installed the poly tension rod bushings, which proved to be an interesting install. Not hard, once I figured out the trick, but thought I would take 5 minutes to document the steps I took. Keep in mind this is only for the black dragon poly bushing kit. 1) jack up and support car with jackstands 2) remove the front wheels 3) remove the nut holding the tension rod to the chassis (17mm) 4) Remove the two nuts/bolts holding the tension rod to the front control arm (14mm) 5) Slide the tension rod out and clean the nuts, bolts and all threads (I used a wire wheel and dremel) 6) Apply generous amount of grease on the bushings, large washers and inner metal guide provided with the kit 7) Take floor jack and jack up the control arm (keeping the floor jack 90 degrees to the cars body) to near level (IMPORTANT STEP). This allows you to install the tension rod and bushings and still have enough threads sticking through to start the nut. If you do not jack up the control arm starting the 17mm nut on the end of the Tension Rod maybe impossible. Just start the nut, but to not torque it yet 8) Install the two bolts that attach the tension rod to the control arm. This may take some reconfiguring as the floor jack may have pulled the control arm forward or backward a little depending on the angle of the floor jack to the body of the car. You can use a screwdriver in one bolt hole to align the other though. 9) Torque the nuts that connect the tension rod to the control arm to 40 ft-lbs (I forget the exact value but I recall 40 ft-lbs is sufficient for both the tension rod to control arm bolts AND the tension rod to chassis nut) 10) Torque the nut from the tension rod to the chassis to 40 ft-lbs 11) Lower the floor jack, install the tires and lower the car.

Ah, the 250 GT SWB Thats love right there.. sigh.....

My brother and I are big motorheads. We always have been. We dabble in autocross, and I have a few track days planned just to have a blast. We both fell in love with Targa rallies in New Zealand and Australia. What we have planned to do is take my Z to the Targa Newfoundland (the closest one I think to us) and to participate. We will do this on my 40th birthday as a present to myself. We are thinking we will codrive my Z. There are two classes, one which actually races for the win, and the other just runs all the same roads, but a set speed behind a pace car. Now with cars like old GT40's and Porsche 911 GT3 RS's running, my little Z has little to no chance to win, but the paced laps with all the vintage Ferraris may be a great way to spend a week. Since I am not going for all out race victories, I think the modification list to my car should be minimal. But I wanted to ask. Has anyone done anything like this with a Z and if so, how extensive was the modifications? What spares should I bring? Just curious. I have 4 years to save up and plan for this, but I am committed to the idea.

I just think it fits the personality of the Z. I would go 112

I will see if I can. Need to find a way to get away from my desk!!