Zedyone_kenobi

DRAT, UAW got to him.

This is awesome! I have a ton of odds and ins. I will make a list tonight

Not loving the monster truck wheels. But that Z will be nice once the engine is done and the interior is tidy. But I will say this, I sure could use a nice set of floormats.

Wait, if your renting out you kid, while your in texas, I may have an antenna wire I need run! hahaa

I cannot get over his scheming look... like how can I get dad to buy me this radio controlled Z car.

install the heat sheild near last. I am not to that point yet, but it would just get in the way. Besides, its held on by very easy to reach bolts at the base of the carbs. I torqued all the header bolts that were independent of the intake before I put the intake on. Makes for less contorting my body later.

Thought I would get my son to show mommy what he wanted for Christmas. I mean what 20 month old would not want some original loop 240Z floormats...right!!!

We will find out Arne. I have always thought my advance mechanism may be a bit dirty. I will tear it down and clean it after I get the new one in. Should be plug and play for the most part. This will complete my tune up so to speak. After I get the carbs in and balanced, will swap out distributors. I only wanted to change one thing at a time. Carbs alone are a big change, and I expect great things from the Ztherapy units.

Ordered my new wire holder today, and since its just plain silly to just order something for $1.53, I had to add a new european curved dizzy. I am hoping my current pertronix will bolt into the new dizzy. Yes, I am weak, and like new shiny OEM parts. But HEY, its Christmas soon, Merry Christmas to ME!!!

You know for whatever reason, I was looking at the cooling part of the catalog since that is where its attached to the engine. Sometimes, I really have to think I am starting the road to senility early.

Quick note. It seems I made a bit of a mistake when putting my thermostat back on. The spark plug wire holder that bolts to the rear most bolt on the thermostat cover is made of plastic, and when I put it back on, I sort of snapped the plastic in half. Does anybody know who may have an extra?

I bought several plugs yesterday. I know one fit very nicely, threaded in with no issues at all. I will see which one it was. I think it may have been NPT. As far as the carbs go. They were installed by Ztherapy on the manifold when it arrived. I just bolted it up. I may have to remove the carbs to get a good torque on the nuts. I think a 12mm crows foot would help dramatically as well.

They do put in different needles that run more rich. I am not sure that it is part of the basic Ztherapy SS treatment, but I requested them. I get the impression that the performance in the SU's is mostly due to the correct needle selection and the weight of the oil in the piston. You can control how fast it rises and how much fuel comes out. Until you reach the max CFM the SU's can flow with the pistons fully up, I think you can tune to just about any reasonable performance level.

Thats the plan...just need to find the cleanest way to do that. Latest issue is the upper and lower radiator hoses. My factory radiator was upgraded from a two core to a three core. While this is great and all, the outlet and inlet to the radiator seems to be larger than the stock 240Z radiator. I ordered an upper and lower radiator hose from Black DRagon and the part that attaches to the engine is perfect, but the part that had to go onto the radiator was a ultra tight fit. I think its far too tight. I need to find a larger diameter tube hose, with the same bend. The search is on!

UPDATE: All parts are on the car. I did not get around to finally torquing the bolts. There is no way I will be able to get a torque wrench on the bolts below the intake, so I will have to use the force. This is shaping up well. I still have some cleaning to do on the block and run new fuel lines. Still have not figured out how I want to rerun the coolant lines. MOre on that after Turkey day I guess.

the studs make it much easier, The lower spacers and nuts are pain, but very doable.

Okay, today was a great day. I got the header back on as well as the new carbs. They look very purrrrdy. refinished my thermostat housing and cover and got those in. Found some spiffy cad covered grade 8 bolts to install there. On note of warning. Put the washer and nut loosely on the lower studs for the intake first. Trying to fish those lower nuts on with the header and intake on was a bit of a pain. Apparently I have bear claw hands, and they would not reach very easily. But after many trys and finally MacGeyvering with a wrench and some tape, I got them on. Tomorrow I have to torque all the bolts and then I can start installing my new fuel lines and reroute my coolant lines to take into consideration the lack of intake water passages. MOre to come.

I recently did this on my 71 dealer installed pulley. I removed the old bearing via hammer and socket. I bought the Gates pulley that NAPA sells and when I tried to tap out the bearingI sort of ruined it. DOH! But while it was out, I measured the outer race and it was 1.674" exaclty on the old bearing I beat out and the new gates bearing I ruined. I went down to the parts store and picked up a new SS bearing and I am back in business. I will have to go to a machine shop to get it pressed in as I am without a vice for the time being.

YOu guys are making me VERY happy! I am about to start bolting parts back up. I am holding off for two reasons. I am thinking that I may want to get some parts cad plated. I have a small pile of connectors and bolts and nuts. I cleaned them up with a wire wheel and Dremel, and they look clean and new, but would look better with a shiny CAD plate. I also nearly finished up my air cleaner resto yesterday. I have a few runs I need to work out with some 2000 grit and polish off. I think I am going to clear coat the thing when I am done to protect the new stickers I got for her. All I am waiting on now is gaskets for my Thermostat housing and I am off to the races! Should be fun. I think I will go ahead and flush the rad while I am here and replace all the hoses. I have to plug up the intake water path anyway.

Quick question I am about to start putting my intake and header back on my Z. I have cleaned everything, chased all the threads of the head with a tap and got them squeaky clean, and I am about ready to put the new MSA studs in the head. Would it be better to use locktite on the studs versus anticease. I mean it would help hold them in, and you can always heat it up to remove the locktite. I have been debating this. I actually bought a tube of anticease to use, as its my normal mode of operation, but it would be nice to not have to worry about the studs backing out. Also, the torque spec for the manifolds is 8-11 ft lbs. Can I assume both the stud into the head and nut on the stud is 8-11 ft lbs?

Actually he did. I am not being mean, I LOVE his Z. It is a true dream machine. NO doubt, the logic just does not hold up. It is neither here nor there. Just a curiosity. People intrigue me.

So just to point something out. Your into this resto for 6 figures, and you will not up the 20 bucks for a pro account.. funny accounting.. haha

Today my orange paint from Classic Datsun showed up, as well as my new tensioner pulley for the AC. All I have left to do is clean out the threads, and I should be able to start putting things back together! Just need some thermostat housing bolts that go into the head. Must be metric bolt store around clear lake somewhere!

My master cylinder looks exactly like that. With the same long bleeders, but as I recall, I did not have 1.5" of room. Its been a while, so my memory is fuzzy, but I will definitely try again when I get my carbs back on! By they way, thanks SO much for the effort in taking those pics!

THat confirms what I thought. Good info. I was going to order a new T-stat housing Arne, but thought I could save this one with a wire wheel and lots of scrubbing. So far so good. I am prepping it for paint right now. I still need to clean the holes. I am guessing I should liberally coat the next bolt with some copper grease or antisieze before installation. Something to prevent corrosion! YUCK.