Zedyone_kenobi

There you have it.. Webers for accessibility and ease of finding parts. I highly recommend them. They are a simple design that has many decades of experience available to you on this board to help out. Weber junkies like to help each other. Soon you will be talking emulsion tubes and idle jets and air correctors like a pro

For what it's worth I have never heard a non ticking L series engine they all make some valve train noise

Well you want his children to go to college don't you. Have a heart. Paying way too much is a badge of honor for Porsche people. I find they like to brag at how much the repairs cost. It keeps us plebeians away from their beetles.

The Gnose is a thing of beauty, but it takes a hell of a commitment to get it looking right. You will be into the kit for 2500 dollars before paint. I find it very attractive, but you have to have the rest of the car to support the look. That longer front overhang will cause issues on curbs and getting her on jack stands. So while you are considering it, you must consider how you use the car and if it is worth the extra cost and trouble.

Your only other alternative for springs only are the Vogtland or wait for MSA to finally get more of 'their' brand in. Their are literally NO other choices. I refuse to run coilers as I do not want to go that far from stock mounting points. And I will NOT cut my car for camber plates. So I will just wait or order set of Vogtland and write up a review of them.

Also the extra ride height is a god send for public roads and driveways and speedbumps I can get my floor jack under the engine cross member under the spook the eibachs make the car eaiser to enjoy

I run 205/55/15 the car sits pretty level,if I am honest the slightly larger wheel gap is not all that noticeable in most situations

I put the 001's on front, 002's in the rear You WILL have slightly more wheel gap in the front. Just get ready for it.

Count in me in! That box is amazing. I never knew anything like that existed. Can I be secretary of War. I want to drive a tank.

I will see you at ZCON buddy... We have all done things like this. We can get together for a drink or two and tell war stories. I have made more than my share, and will no doubt make more. Your car is beautiful... Cannot wait to see it in person. That interior looks beautiful.

I already run a 71b type 4 speed and enlarged the opening so the 5 speed should not require much work I have not tried zcarsource yet last transmission I bought from them I had to have rebuilt as reverse was clunking

You do not offend anybody! You are in very respected company. Originality is still king. However with cars like the 240Z (and 911, and 2002, and GTV) they are purchased not just to have a beautiful object to own, but the very roots of their pedigree are in motorsports and the ability to produce a thrilling drive. These cars attract those who want to capture that original 240Z magic as well as those looking for the ultimate classic car driving experience. A well modified classic version of the cars mentioned above heightens the driving experience. If the mods are tasteful and period correct, I have been posing to the classic car crowd, that these cars modified to drive are worth almost as much as all original ones. People who value the visceral drive over all out originality come with bags of money of their own. Both are welcome at my house!

Hey bud, Those are good questions. I will have to go look. But I can give you some quick answers now. I have only ever had tokiko strut inserts in my car. When I bought it they were their but badly worn, and I replaced them with new ones when I did my redo. Previously I had tokiko springs and tokiko struts. The car had even wheel gaps and rode very stiff. I had very little wheel movement if any and I was on bump stops almost constantly. I felt every single bump in the road. I upgraded to fresh tokiko strut inserts and eibachs. I gained about an inch of ride height in the back and a bit over an inch in the front. For the first time ever I could push on the four corners of my car and it would move downward. I gained a LOT of compliance. Car handled mid corner bumps well without much fuss for the first time. I cannot say if the fresh struts gave me this or the added ride height though. But the car is a far better street car now. I can put a jack under the spook with the ride height and I can drive on ramps without a 'preramp' to get up on them. Bad news for you is if you wanted to go tokiko springs again they are not available as of March 20, 2017. Your choices are Eibach Pros, or Vogtland for lowering springs. I hear MSA will make a new batch of what they are calling MSA springs, but no word on when that will be available. I do wish my wheel gaps were the same, but for the time being I am loving the compliance over bumps, ease of getting up and down driveways, and not scraping my exhaust.

Amen to that! Electrical Gurus like Steve and Zsondabrain who help out the community are irreplaceable. I am a mechanical engineer, and if it gets beyond Ohms or Kirkaffs law, I am out. As far as I am concerned it is all magic. A bunch of invisible things running around moving things and lighting things up. It is voodoo.

I got them with the Z club discount for 476 shipped I think.. I mean really it was so cheap I could barely stand to lose. Granted. I took a bath when I sold them with tires, but them the breaks

Thanks to Dave Irwin, the electrical guru, this problem is solved. He wrote me an email about how to check for this and what is probably is. The cancellation posts (2) 1/2" long posts that stick out of the steering wheel, that cancel the turn signal) are likely hitting the brass horn contact on the turn signal switch. It happens if the plastic block isn't snug enough, or the brass tab moves inwards, away from the center of the contact plate on the steering wheel. You don't have to pull the steering wheel. Just pull the turn signal switch off, gently move the brass contact outwards and tighten the screw on the plastic horn tab block and the screw holding the contact. Just remember it's plastic and will break if you over tighten it. Also make sure you put some grease on the contact Plate on the steering wheel. I usually clean all the old grease off with brake cleaner then smear new grease on. it cuts the friction so the contact and the plate lasts longer. Dave This is exactly what it was!! Car works as it was suppose to now.

I just recently got my Turn Signal / combo switch and hazard switch redone by Dave and let me give credit where it is due... it looks staggeringly good! I have no more weird light issues, as Dave fixed them! Great vendor! However, having said that.... here is a new issue....all my lights and radio and every thing work beautifully. But my horn is acting funny. When I turn the wheel the horn beeps if I turn it just so far. I think the turn canceling tabs are hitting the little spring arm. That spring arm is suppose to touch the back the wheel brass all the time and pressing the horn button makes the connection if I recall. Has anybody ever had this issue? Wait it gets better!! My Roadster is doing the same thing! In both cases it started after I removed the Combo and turn signal switch and then reinstalled them. Is their a trick to reinstalling the combo/TS switch so this does not happen, because OBVIOUSLY I have messed this up twice. Have you ever had this issue?

I have no intelligent things to say about 280z prices but do have an emotional best wishes and good luck to say

No idea they just always seem off center I sure their is a reason but I don't know it I will not run with it normally I just like to play around with it

Staying with the Panasports was the right choice also LOVING the side stripes with my NOS badging!

Mine looks the same. It needs some filler and sanding before I can even prime it. I was not thrilled with it either, but I plan to try to make it work. My only question is what color to paint it. Same as the rear valance around the lights, or body colored.

I really need to do this, but I have my electric fuel pump mounted exactly in the same place. I built a bracket to mount it. I need to order this and get the car up on stands and make it all fit.

It is staggering how long it took me to find Zcardepot. The packaging is absolutely first rate. The speed of shipment is top notch. Great vendor. I will be supporting him again. I will try to get these installed today. I have a huge bag of body clips to use that I bought when I did my roadster door skins. I am looking forward to seeing how these look installed myself, so pics are coming.

I have been on this one since new, with my screen name: SCRAPPYDO With the flaws in all, this is still a nice car that has been done fairly well. If the body is mostly rust free the price is going to keep going up. If you take the time to read the comments on the car they are overwhelming positive. People are bidding and commenting on this car with their heart rather than their head. Which is good, as that is what keeps the Porsche cars such hot commodities. The pictures are going to put this car close to 30k. Mid 20's at least. An old crusty used car salesman told me one time that Looks Sell. I think this blue Z, while not poorly built, is proof of that.