TomoHawk

There seems to be some confusion about this Mopar combustion chamber cleaner. A few other discussion websites stated that this product is a type of FOAM, and the main ingredient is water

I have a new pair of fog lamps to install on the Zed, and one bulb wasn't working, so I looked around to see what is available: 55W Halogen, 80W Halogen, Cree LED, etc., I think I would like to get some halogen, so the light doesn't blind oncoming traffic, and it should look about normal to me. But, I read about a large variety of bulbs! Instead of brighter 80W bulbs, there were several suggestions to use PIAA 55W bulbs, as they are supposed to be as bright as generic 80W bulbs? eBay and Amazon had some Cree LED bulbs listed, but I have no experience using those for headlamps or fog lamps. If the PIAA bulbs are truly brighter than generic, for the same power consumption, then I think I would select those, even though they are a few dollars more than generic H3 bulbs. Discussion? thxZ

Did you send him any parts from your car?

All I did was to use a scotchbrite disk on a drill to remove the oxidation on the outside. Plus, a l little etching mag wheel cleaner, I think.

how will that perform on the road? Does the cover seal the contents totally? Can you change a fuse easily?

Yours looked nice even before the cleaning, but mine is stock. I like the squarish edges of the stock manifold, so I would just clean it as it is, on the outside. I was thinking of putting in a reusable inline fuel filter, so I could clean it and reuse it, uinstead of throwing it away every few months.You can't even get the small cone filters with a 5/8 inch neck at local AP stores- you have to order them online. You would need an adapter from the big vent tube to a smaller hose.

I thought I would revisit this before it gets really cold... I don't have any carbon or soot buildup to remove. What there is inside the intake manifold, is a coating of some baked-on oil, so I don't think any of the de-carbonizing agents will work.... All the videos and how-to stuff I see is geared toward de-carbonizing the cylinders, valves, and EGR valve.

If it 'looks good' then it probably not an original, so only real car enthusiasts will like it. Cobras shouldn't have much detail besides engine, gas cap, 1 or 2 seats, tachometer. I've asked people if they have ever used the quick-lift jack brackets, and they usually say, "it's just for looks." Mine is all original, so people tell me to put in leather seats, nice stereo, "nice paint" and a "new engine with turbo?"

If you get a chance look up a TV series called Bill Connolly's Route 66. It's a fairly contemporary program, from 2011, and he drives Route 66 end-to-end in a trike, so the views will not be from the inside of a closed-in vehicle. You will see the same restored and un-restored places and buildings and roads, and even some of the places you won't see or read about in videos or books.

If you find a supply, please share it. There are a lot of L28 owners that would want one to go with the twin-cam cylinder head.

To me, it resembles a BA9 tubular bulb. The item name is BA9S T4W LED 2W 100lm 8-5730 SMD, which to me means: BA9s "style" (9mm base, similar to the BA9s bulb, with a single terminal) T4W = (??) 2W 100lm = 2 Watts and 100 Lumens 8-5730 SMD = 8 5730 SMD LED 'CHIPS' So the T4W part was the only unknown, and a quick 'Google' didn't give any helpful information. But if it truly has 100 Lumens, I think there may be hope for a good use.

What do you think about this new design for the BA9 LED bulb? Is there a name for it? http://www.ebay.com/itm/201238059796

I replaced my straps too, but I didn't have to make a new cylinder head for the engine! Ha ha I have been advocating for a new cylinder head and despite all the nay-sayers that insist you need a big bank account to do it. it has apparently been done. We will all look forward to the renewed performance a well-designed cylinder head will give.

Good, thanks for the note. I'll keep checking things as I put in LED bulbs. Keep in mind that some of the lights don't need dimming, like the turn signal, brake, high beam etc. indicators, so you could just use the single-LED bulb for that. You only really need those 7: speedometer (2), tachometer(2), oil(1), fuel(1), clock(1) and heater(1) so if you can leave the rest as regular bulbs, things should be fine (I think.) You just can't get those rare little things that go into the hazard and defroster switches, so maybe whatever LED you can get into those will be fine at whatever brightness they get. Personally, I don't need to see every little mark or speck of dust on the gauge face; just the position of the needle (except the car tachometer of course.) I've been getting the super-bright ones so far, but just a few. Maybe I'll look for the warm-white kind and try those.

I tried out this concept today. I installed a BA9 LED bulb (the 5 SMD type) in the heater control panel, and it really did dim with the other regular bulbs that were in the gauges. I adjusted it from fully-off to fully-on using the stock rheostat. I will get a bunch of white LED bulbs and start putting them in the gauges and indicators. Would this LED bulb work for gauge illumination? It's 1Watt.

I have wondered how people figure the output rating needed from the alternator. Do you just add up the values of the fuses in the fusebox, plus any loose fuses, or do you sit down with some paper and write down, in detail, every part that uses power (headlamps, fog lamps, heater fan, radio, power seat/windows, etc.) and how much current it needs?

because you cannot get the original parts. Even having the part, like the alternator, repaired or rebuilt is often not possible usually, because the repair shop people are gone, and the young people that have the repair shop are too lazy to repair things; they would rather just install a new part, which is easier, which you cannot buy! The same is true for classic American cars; you usually put in a modern part for the old part.

That's what I thought straight away. Usually, the first thing the sales person says to you is, "what car do you have" (even if you have an SUV or pickup!) So even if I tell him exactly the GM part number (or any part number even) is, they ask you, "what car do you have." These young people can't handle auto parts like the old guys did. They probably think a Spanner is some kind of computer or 'phone' application. UGH... BTW- None of the mapping websites I know of can find Podunk, KS...

I'm pretty sure that was the port I tested and found to have ported vacuum. The one pointing toward the TPS switch was blocked when the BCDD opening was blocked off. Plus, the PO must have re-plumbed the vacuum hoses from the manifold port. That port had a Tee to go to the FPR, and the other to go to the distributor and (another Tee) for the carbon canister. Similar variances were inside for the ventilation vacuum hoses and blower motor.

While digging around myself, it looks like the bulbs you ought to get are a BA9s 12V flashlight bulb, which has a pointy glass envelope.

Not at all. I usually wondered where they get those numbers, like the T-1 3/4 or T-5 for LEDs. Your rationale for the nomenclature sounds fine, and I really would like every vendor on eBay to read and comply! They use BA9 or BA 15 for just about any bayonet-based automotive bulb, and the LED "bulbs" (lamps, really) should have equally accurate nomenclature. OTOH- if you went to the auto parts store and asked for a 12V,3W BA9s-G3 bulb, the only thing that will happen is the sales 'person' will ask you what kind of CAR you have- even if it (the bulb) is for your lawn mower!

Bruce- Where does that advance port go to on the outside of the throttle body? I must be getting a little leak from that, increasing the idle too much, so screwing the idle screw all the way in doesn't get the idle to the right point. I must have missed closing that hole when the throttle body was being cleaned & serviced.

In any case, you don't need to "wire" the flashers into the car, you only need to connect or orient the flasher into the existing wires correctly, and some of the new flashers require one extra connection to the chassis.

I also think there was also a problem with the bulbs I used before, a Sylvania #55 (7V, 3W.) These were brighter, and you only needed about 1/2 a turn of the rheostat, but you run the risk of them burning up earlier if you turn the rheostat all the way up. But the #55 bulb had a large globe for the glass bit, and the glass hit the socket when you inserted them into the socket, adding to the problem. That is why I wanted to change to a real BA9s bulb, because the glass is no wider than the metal base. So I'm back to the other problem of the bulb's base being too tall to fit the socket. The only real solution I can think of would be to replace the sockets with a better one, that is made to accept a BA9 bulb without the use of a hammer...

I had two bulbs go out recently, so it's time for me to change out all the bulbs- they seem to fail in small groups. It sounds easy enough- you pull out the socket then push & turn the bulb to get it out. But when I push the bulb in, you still can't turn it, because there are some small nibs that are supposed to keep the bayonet pins in place so the bulb doesn't accidentally come out by itself. What I have been doing today is to trim the point of the nibs slightly, and sanding the solder contact pad at the tip so you can push the bulb in more to clear the nibs (the solder pad was keeping the bulb from pushing all the way in.) So I would like to ask everyone if they have a nifty or sure-fire way to get the bulb out of the socket. BTW- I'm using the 4.3 watt bulbs (GE 1816), like the ones MSA sells, but you can buy them at the local AP store. My test battery must be low, because the gauge lights up yellow with the 4W bulb, or is that correct?