TomoHawk

I pour it into the gas tank...(one 1 can so far) Do you have to do the whole thing at once, or can you pour it in and then eat your breakfast, then drive to work? (how long can it sit?) thx

The 280ZX used the same engine and I think the early 300ZX, and 240SX, so that means the same airflow meter.

With all that extra junk (screens, neon lights under the car) how do they manage to go fast any way? Movie special effects?

My personal tip is to stay off the roads until after a decent rain to wash off the salt residue from the streets (if you live inthe salt-belt). Even if the road is dry, the salt can get up on the car, and hide until some water activates it to eat through the paint. :surprised :eek:

Which car d o you have? The rheostat is on the ground leg of the light wiring. One of the wires(pins) going into it can be patched to ground so you get full 12V (theoretically) to the lights. If you tried that and the lights still don't work, then it's not the rheostat. I'm having some trouble figuring out the circuit for the gauge light on my 280, but I think the 12V goes to the cigarette light too.

Oh no... it's the "battery on the concrete" thing again... It doesn't matter if it's on the concrete or not- they just don't like to get cold. I keep mine on the concrete, in the basement, where it's 68 all winter. No problems ever.

The first shot of the dash was in the beginning race thing. Thre girl with the pink convertable (Suki) had a monitor that has a characature of herself with her name (real useful while racing). There was a shot of the screen with some bargraphs showing engine stats while the forked thing- ESD, "Electrical System Disabler" was zapping the car (helicopter chase scene near the end).

2Fast/2Furious was on TV recently, and I watched most of it. I noticed they had a video screen on the one car the cop-guy was driving? Action went too fast to get a good look. Did anybody get a good look at what all there was on those cars? thx

How many sets do you have for use on a road course, drag. autoX, etc. or just plain touring/driving? What wheel size & tire size(s)? Manufacturer maybe (tires)? thx

Why would you replace fuses that weren't there? Was something not working because the fuse was out? Sounds like a short or crossed wiring between circuits.

The reason is I'm rounding up all the parts from the old car that I won't need for the new car, and I'll sell it all. thx

I think the answer to Mr. Znut73's question would be that the smog equipment would needs to be carefully removed a piece or two at a time. Some pieces are interconnected, so you'd probably want to remove them all at once. The tricky part is to re-tune the engine each time to get it working well without the emmissions parts. Just taking the emmissions parts off will totally throw it off for both power & fuel efficiency. that is why those pumps and hoses were added- to increase the eficiency. So if the emmissions parts are still working well, there's no need to take them off. With the way the value goes with the early cars, those without the smog equipment has much less value, so you have two reasons to keep it on and working.

I have a set of halfshafts (maybe thre driveshaft too) from a low-mileage 1978 280Z. Very good condition. I'm wondering if they still have good enough value to put up for sale here or just recycle to the metal-man? thx

I just got a Motorola m25 off eBay ysterday. Crossing fingers)

I gotta look into the design of these micro hard drives. They seem to have these things designed to be mobile, with much tolerance to vibration. Maybe it's not even mechanical, but a solid state drive (only about 1cm thick)? thx

My other favorite is "There's your bleeping UFO, Mulder..." --Agent Scully

How good do the ones with the hard drive memory work? I don't like the idea of a hard drive ANYTHING bouncing around in a car, with the drive head crashing every time you hit a bump. Stick with flash memory?

I've seen some websites that advertise a "free" MP3 player, if you participate in their surveys. Is that true? What hoops or trouble do you go through? thx

Dude, I think you are more like a major psych-o

I totally loogied on my dead self! Ted "Theadore" Logan, "Bill & Ted's bogus Journey"

I have seen the new head units with the plug for the Ipods. I hope eventually more MP3 players will adopt a common interface besides the USB for connecting to stuff. If you re-encode the P3s into 64 kbps, you should double the capacity. According to the info you read on the product packaging.

The newer units are coming with the FM tuner. But you'd say, "why would you need an FM tuner in the car?" It's for when you go portable. Put the player in the beltclip, plug in your earbuds, and you get radio. Would you trust a used Ipod? It seems to me that if it was working well, I'd not want to sell it. thx

I would like some suggestions for an MP3 player... the Ipod mini & nano are very nice. I'd go with the mini because the display is bigger (easier to read while driving). Others I'm aware of are the Creative Zen, and RCA Lyra 2300 series. My criteria: PLAYLISTS (up to 20 tracks, minimum, EACH) 1 Gb memory (keeps price relatively low) replaceable and/or rechargeable battery (Alkaline, MiMH, or NiCd ) "big", easy to read display (while bouncing around in a car) easy-to-use controls(for menu navigation) 1/8 inch mini-jack for connection to radio (or portable amp/speakers) FM tuner (option- nice for portability) microphone and voice recording Adjustable output volume Equilizer settings (ex., Rock, classical, Jazz, Flat) USB connector (obviously) A rechargeable battery pack is nice, although you have to carry a charging adapter, so I kinda lean towards Alkaline cells, because you can just throw a few spares in the armrest/ashtray). I think the Playlists, memory, and battery are the top 3 criteria, respectively. I'm using a basic one (RCA Lyra) with 638 Mb,and I only use 3 of 8 buttons(Play/pause, Next, prev) while driving, but only 1 playlist thx

About time you did that. I remember reading so many comments from you already...

Gary is right, that you need to be consistent with your driving habits to see if the mileage changes.