TomoHawk

I bought a set of mirros from MSA, and the local Autozone, et al, hadthe samething for 1/3 the price. You probably need to make sure that you get the exact same one that were on there.

Make sure it was a kind of wheel that was offered at the time the car was manufactured. You only get the 1 deduction for all 4 wheels, if you go that way.

Yes, the type A:B dry chemical units are mostly sodium bicarbonate,but still not recommended for cars because they are corrosive to the point that it'll get into everything, and it it will damage the aluminum on the engine if you don't clean it up immediately. It is also not recommended because you should not breathe it in. The newer water-based stuff is better than the dry powders, as it is initially like a foam to smother the air, cool the hot materials, and prevent re-ignition. You can spray it on yourself with no harmful effects, and it cleans up with plain water. It sounds like a kind of ultra-sudsy soap, although they aren't telling, but that's what did for years after college (I was a soap chemist).

Have there been any new developments in the media used in fire extinguishers? I recently looked at a number of units, from Kidde to FirstAlert, and anything with a 10 B:C rating had a dry powder media. So if I'm right, dry powder is corrosive and messy, and not very desireable for use on valuable cars. The only thing that would be OK to use on a Z would be the FireAide product, but those only come in little 16 oz. bottlles, and is only rated 1A:10B. If you had your choice (or requirement), what would you carry in the car? thx

Are you sure you're both talking about the same kind of tank? There may be differences between years, ljust like other things

Maybe that's why there were reports of the stuff leeching- because it hadn't hardened enough. A few extra days to harden isn't such a price to pay for another 30+ years of excellant service. If you give it a few more treatments, maybe the steel shell could rust away and leave the plastic liner? ROFL

My AFM was similar to yours. I got a puff of black smoke when I give the throttle a quick jolt. The Nissan guy who 'fixed' it said he just opened it up and cleaned well the electrical contacts inside and ooutside. The dirty connections increases the resistance and fools the controller. If you are using a non-OEM afm, then make sure the resistance values are correct for the different amounts of swing for the flap. In general, on such an old car, be sure to check electrical connections for corrosion as you work on your car. Your may have more or less than the usual amount tho. Spring tension: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/calibration/index.html AFM adjustment: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/index.html

One of the problems with something like a tank liner product is that it leeches into the gasoline after being put back into use. Let us know how you think things go. thx

Everybody send him your gas tanks... (kidding)

Don't forget to replace all the hoses on the fuel tank since you have it out, and it's easy to get to.

I've got slow speed bavk on my fan, so I'm going to leave it on that settin until I can fix it. Thia makes me agree with Steven that there is a gear in there that's loose or something.

Getting the rubber connector on was easy. I put my fingers through on the inside if the curve, then hooked it on the tube and stretched the rubber on. Like stretching socks. No lube used at all, except for when I wanted to turn the rubber to a different position.

Now that I got my intake tube on, I'm trying to figure out if it's any different or better.. Assuming that the aluminum tube & the rubber connector are doing their best, I'm wondering if the 'cone' filter is good enough to really allow air to flow better. It's a kind of a cheap filter with a red filter element, the base is chromed and on the narrow end is a chromed plate with a hole in the center, and a smaller innie-cone in there. The reason I'm wondering is that I took the fiilter off and the engine RPM went up, so I concluded the filter was 'restrictive.' I proved it to myself by putting my fingers over the open tube, and the engine RPM dropped accordingly. Should I switch to a (better) K&N type cone filter? Should there be a 'performance' difference in the length or taper of the cone? thx

take a read of this document on cleaning the electrical connectors on a Z. It's mainly about the techniques, but it shows the location of many of the important engine connectors and a few grounding spots on a fuel-injected Z engine. Still need to find the chassis & wiring harness grounds. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html

Well, mine is only 27 years old now, but I'm constantly cleaning connectors & pins. I don't really have any problems with the headlights being dim- they are pretty bright at any engine RPM. The only connectors I haven't gotten to are the ones on the lamps themselves and the ones buried high behind the dash. But it helps to know where the grounding points are under the hood & on the chassis (in the back.) The wiring diagram only shows where the ground tails are on the harness. thx

I saw a show from Two Guys Garage where they were checking the cables on the starter & battery, and what they did was to measure with a digital voltmeter, using the lowest volts range, the difference in millivolts across a connection. Then they determined that one of the cable ends was bad with too much voltage drop, so they replaced it. My intent is to find & check grounding points to see where I can improve the electrical system, especially lights, but I think it would help the ignition system and fuel pump too. I just need to find out where the ground points are on the chassis & engine. Black wires? thx

That's what those two odd screws are for on the left side of the front bumper, except mine are rusted and the slot in the head doesn't look too strong. So since you are required to have a license plate on the front in my state, I'll probably need the plate frame too. Except the parts CD doesn't show a good picture of the front license plate frame. thx.

I didn't really mean a brand new one, just a new one from somebody's catalog. Not a hacked one from some car in a JY.

Thanks Steven. I'll open up the panel and see how things look. ZSaint- I'll just buy one from a catalog. There are no Z cars in JYs in Ohio.

Last summer my blower switch started working funny. Some of the settings stopped working, and would only work if you moved the switch back & forth some. Then it didn't turn on the fan at all. Are there contacts in the switch that can be checked? I could probably trace the power through, but I'm wondering if I should look into getting a new fan switch. thx

You are limited to what will adapt, so I don't think there is anything better. If it (BMW one) does bolt-on, let us know. I want a 4sp auto with O/D and lockup.

Don't forget to lube the brass contact ring so you don't wear out your paddle button. Also make sure that the paddle won't get loose and let the paddle move around and accidentally touch ground. Mine did once about 10pm (in the driveway!?) one night.:mad: Just make sure you don't strip the little plastic part the small paddle screw goes into, and don't break it off!

The JATCO (JApanese ATrnsmission COmpany) made the 4NBL transmission for many years, and that one went into small trucks and other cars besides S30, so I think you could assume it's a pretty good unit. Mine went 120k miles before it went. Some people were trying to hook up a 4sp auto from the Maxima...

200 KPH is only 120 MPH. That you can do, easy.

I will give them a call.