Marty Rogan

If the engine is available, then they must have won the race? since it's over, how about some details about the engine. People would be more inclined to buy tickets if they knew what they were getting. Marty

YES YOU NEED THE KEY!! I would guess that it would only be available from the dealer, or possibly MSA, but I have never tried to buy one. Good luck, Marty

Thanks for clearing that up for me Chris. "It's a cable thing". I don't get cable, so that makes sense. I would rather spend money on my Z, than cable, ! If they lose, it would be pretty tough to follow through on their raffle commitment. I would think the winner would want the engine too! Marty

It might help if they gave a fuller explanation of who they are and what they are trying to accomplish, along withthe refund thing. I for one have never heard of Pinks Z. Plus, we are being asked to give money for a complete unknown engine? How would we know if these guys know what they are doing? Marty

Steve, I used the original wire when possible. I have also used a coat hanger wire as a substitute. If you are lucky enought to have some sun when you are doing the job, let the seat covers sit out in the sun for a bit and do the jon outside. It helps you to stretch the covers oever the frames easier. Good luck, Marty

Dave, I am putting an electric fuel pump into my early '71 (1/71) as well . Wiring has to be my worst skill. I need to step through this one step at a time. Let me see if I have this right. 1) Mount the fuel pump near the tank and ground the pump to the frame nearby. 2) Connect the power wire from the pump to the green wire in the wiring harness near the tank with a spade connector. 3) At the connector near the right hand side of the radio, connect a power lead to the green wire witha spade connector. 4) Connect the power wire from the green wire to one wire on the inertia switch. 5) The second wire from the inertia switch is routed into the engine bay and connected to 1 of three lead on the oil pressure cut-off switch. 6) This is where I get a little blurry on the details. One connection from the pressure switch goes to the solenoid. The 3rd wire goes to the battery (with an in-line fuse) for power? Or is that wired into the ignitions switch somehow? Where did you get your oil pressure cut-off switch from? What pressure is used for cut-off? did you use any relays? TIA, Marty Schools for the wiring impaired.

How much oil pressure does the engine make while cranking during start up? If the float bowls are empty, will I have a hard time strting the car? TIA, Marty

The metal fan will only be used WAAAaaaaaaaaay down the road when this baby is retired from racing and gets a well desired restoration. Marty

Thanks Arne. I'll have to have a look under there this weeken. Marty

Gary, Any idea if an early '71 has the wiring for an electric pump built in? I need to get mine isntalled real soon. Marty

Can you give us some details on what had to be done to get them to fit? Thanks, Marty

Yep, Nissan is a little looney on their prices for these items. I don't think the Nissan items are magic. I got a chain kit off EBay for about $75. Make sure you get one made in Japan though, not Taiwan or China. Stay away from Felpro head gaskets, they stink. I think MSa sells the head gasket cheaper, but have not looked at the individual prices lately. I bought their whole engine kit for $109. good luck. Marty

No. It is a Pacesetter Header that I bought direct from Jet-Hot Coatings. It shocked the hell out of me to, !!! I never heard anyone say that they had a clearance problem with this swap. Oh, well. It just slowed me down a bit, but it is fitting great now. Marty

He offered to clean it up. At the time, I thought I wanted to hook everything back up. I have to pass emissions tests in my state. Marty

Sent you a PM. Marty

And Ken gets the Booby Prise!! Go directly to the Boobs thread and enjoy! The water jacket area was interfering with the header tubes. So it was completely cut off and ground smooth. He did such a nice job that it looks like it came from the factory that way. A very clean look. Here are a couple of close-ups to show the finished product. Marty

One of my Z buddies ported and gasket-matched the the intakes for me. That should greatly increase the air flow. I am hoping for a aproximately a 10HP increase. While he was at it, I had him polish up the outsides too. I believe he first use a sanding wheel to get them smoothed out, then buffed them with a buffing wheel. As far as the guess, sorry, that is the stock angle. Anyone else? Marty

Well, I am making some progress on my L28 swap into my '71 track car. Got my new intakes on and the engine/trans back into the car. Here are a couple of pictures of the new intakes. Who can guess what's different about them? Marty

Also, you mentioned that the alternator is new. Did you change the voltage regulator (if you still use it) also? It is best to replace both at the same time. A lot of the time, one fails after you change the other. Marty

Count me in for 2. Marty

I hear ya on that hellacious desire to get back on the track! It's really addictive isn't it? I am trying to finish up an L28 swap into my '71 that I have been working on all winter. It's just one stumbling block after the other, but I am getting there. I missed 2 track days this year already. ARRrrg!! Sounds like you are getting your suspension dialed in. Mine is set up pretty similar and I like it a lot. Just need that extra L28 power! Marty

That should 919 Yellow. I have one in that color. Probably one of the rarest color combos in '70 was blue, with a blue interior. That is the color of my other one. I think blue & white are probably #1 & 2 in rarity. Marty

Sounds about right for a stock motor. I had my stock motor dynoed a couple of years ago and it came in about the same range. It peaked power at 5,750 RPM. I figure revving it above 6K is just beating on it. The only change I did to it was to put in a Pertronix. Marty

Yep, I have had that long bolt snap off on me too. Once the front cover is off, you might be able to grab it with vice grips. Heat the block area around the bolt first. Sometimes the expansion is all you need to back it out. I was able to pry the pulley off with a large, stout screw driver, after getting the bolt off of course. An impact gun makes easy work of getting the bolt loose. Good luck, Marty