Marty Rogan

I put an '83 L28 and matching 5 spd into my early '71. I am getting a clunk where I didn't have it before, with the stock L24 and '78 5spd. The U-joints are all pretty new and I replaced the front diff mount. Although I don't remember reading about having to change out drive shafts, I started wondering if there was a difference in the length when they set the diff back on the later models. Anybody know about that? TIA, Marty

Raven, What you should do is a personal thing, depending on your family situation. But you did say that you love the car. The things that you mentioned it needs aren't really all that expensive to replace. Do a little at a time, as budget permits, while you drive the car. The better it gets, the more you will enjoy it. Just be aware. You have a Z, so you ar inflicted with Z Fever, for which there is only one cure, owning a Z!! I had a point in my life when I didn't own a Z for 11 years. Z Fever came back stronger than ever and now I own 2 240Z's!! Just drive the car, enjoy it and be happy! My two cents. Marty

Ed, I live in Chicago and we can get some very cold winters here. I have been storing classic cars for over 25 years with no problems at all. Here's what I do. Clean the inside and outside of the car thoroughly. Get your self a good car cover made of cotton, so that it breathes. Like others have suggeested, change the oil, make sure your anti-freeze is up to par. If you are concerned with moisture in your area, place a few dessicant packets inside the car and in the engine bay. Also, if you storage are is not real secure from mice, you should plug up openings, such as tail pipes, the air cleaner snorkel, etc, with steel wool to discourage them making a home in there. Fill your gas tank and use the proper mixture of Stabil. That will prevent any condensation from forming in the tank. Drive the car around till you get it up to operating temperature, at least 20 minutes of actual driving, not just idling in the drive way. Drive the car right into the spot that you are storing it and shut it off. Don't start it again till spring!! Some people start their cars and idle them in the garage. This does not get it up to proper operating temperature and could do more harm then good by introducing moisture into its systems. Remove the battery and bring it inside. Store it on a thick block of wood. Don't place it on a concrete floor, as that can ruin a battery. I used to put the cars up on jack stands, but stopped doing that a couple of years ago. Your springs can sag from hanging there for months. Todays modern tires are more capable of sitting with weight on them for extended periods of time than old tire designs. Roll it around once in a while if you can. That's about it. Like I said, I have never really had a problem with storing cars this way. You just have to cover it and try to forget about it. That is the hardest part! I usually feed my Z habit by planning my next project and buying parts to put on in the spring. If you are lucky enough to have a heated garage, that is even better. You can get some of those projects done while the car is off the road. Well, hope that helps. Good luck! Marty

I use Zaino Brothers: http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc This stuff puts down a phenominal shine and it is very durable. There are a lot of good tips on their website too. Marty

Just a word of caution here. POR 15 is EXTREMELY TOXIC!!!! You should only spray it if you are using a proper respirator. A simple paper face mask just won't do. Marty

It goes on the lower right hand corner of the passenger side quarter window. I don't know if there are any precise measurements on where it is supposed to go. I believe it was a final quality check approval that was just slapped on before the car was shipped. Back in the day I seem to remember seeing those stickers put on pretty ****-eyed. So unless one of the resident restoration gurus chimes in, I would say anywhere in that general area would do close enough. I basically guessed on mine. Marty

Here's an option for you, unless you intend to enter into a Concourse Car Show. I mounted my new labels on some very thin magnetic sheets that I bought at an ofice supply store. When I am not showing the car, I keep them stored safely in the glove compartment to keep them clean. When I need them, I just take them out to f the envelope and place them exactly where they need to go. The only draw back is the Nihon one won't stick because the radiator is brass. I just use some Scotch tape under it for that spot. Confirming the exact location is a little easier when you can move it around. My 2 cents! Marty

Since Konigs are a Mini-lite / Panasport knock-offs, I wonder if the Panasport center caps would fit them? Just a thought. Marty

E, I certainly don't have a problem donating mine to help with the research. I just need to get a working one before I pull it out. As soon as I get one, or it goes into storage, whichever comes first, I will ship it to you. Marty

On that note, does anyone have an early tack for a 70/71 in good working condition that they want to sell? Marty

I rarely, if ever pitch anything from these old cars. In fact I am collecting the original parts that I am missing (steel fan, steering wheel, etc.) to put it back original once it is retired from track duty. Maybe we could work something out though. I would be glad to loan it to you to support the cause, if you send it back repaired some day. How does that sound to you? In the short term, I just need a tach that works! Marty

The runs great. You can hear the engine continue to pull hard after the tach falls off the cliff. It is a little discomforting to not know the real RPM's since this is my track car. E has helped me out with some electrical issues, and he is very good. Unfortunately, I am not so good with electrical stuff, as E can verify. On my last project, We had to break out the old "Wiring for Dummies" book to get me through, right E? !! If the fix involves digging into the elctonics inside, I may be better off just replacing it. I didn't want to toss it aside if there is a simple fix though. Does anyone know of a plug and play tach replacement that looks pretty close to the original look? I know there won't be an exact replacement, but it should not stick out like a sore thumb. Marty

A little background on the car. This is my early '71. It has a stock coil and a Pertronix ignitor, in a stock distributor. The tach will climb as normal till about 5500 to 5800, then it falls to practically zero. When you shift it climbs again as normal. All the connections are good. I have checked the grounds. I can't find anything that appears to be wrong. Has anybody out there had this problem? Any ideas on how to fix this, or is the tach gone bad? TIA, Marty

Come on over to the yeloow car club!!! You won't regret it. There aren't that many around. You see tons of red, silver or especially white. Be a little different! My two cents. Marty Yellow Z owner (and Blue)

Arne, I have to agree that you have a nice find. I am not sure I would have bought it with the sun roof, but everything else looks really good. Hey, how is the roof on the parts car? Cut that sucker off and set it aside. When this car is ready for a re-paint, have the roof welded on and you can eliminate the only downside I see with that car. Why sell the yellow car after you have gone this far? Now you have one to drive and one to work on, ! Congrats! Marty

Update on the coil buzzing. I still have not found the actual cause of the buzzing. One gearhead buddy said that it is likely the oil inside boiling from overheating. I changed the ballast resistor and so far it seems that the buzzing has stopped. My tach still drops off after revving up to about 5700. I have checked all the wiring and the grounds look good. Any ideas on why the tach drops off? TIA, Marty

What kind of jute did you use? I have been trying to locate some jute like the original brown stuff that is under the carpets. Anybody ever find a source for that? TIA, Marty

Way to go Phred!!! sounds like a lot of fun! Marty

Thanks for the reply Steve. So, it is definitely not a directly compatible connection. I figured that, or I probably would of heard of someone doing it already. Marty

I recently picked up an R180 diff with 3.54 gears. I believe it came off a 78 280Z. The connections for the half shafts are not the typical 240Z flanges where the half shaft bolts on. These half shafts have a splined end that inserts into the diff. I think you then tighten up a nut on the half shaft to secure them. I was looking into replacing that connection with a 240Z side flange so that I could bolt on my existing half shafts, since they have new Spicer U-joints in them. Then I saw some CV joints on EBay. I was wondering if CV joints would mate right up to that connection? CV joints have a splined end too. Not sure if they have the same number of splines or the same length shaft though. Can CV shafts be used with an R180? Anybody know??? Thanks, Marty

Ed, Did you ever figure out why your MSD was buzzing? I had an MSD coil that was buzzing. I changed the coil and it was fine for a while. However the second coil is now buzzing too. I still have not figured out what is causing it. Marty

Well done Arne! I know how you feel, having recently changed my motor twice! Marty