AZ-240z

Remove the drivers side quarter window plastic trim panel, remove the tail light interior plastic finisher panel, prop open the hatch with a hold-open rod, wooden broom handle, or whatever works, (be sure to cushion ends at glass and floor), and remove the 10mm nut which secures the hatch strut to the bracket welded at the hatch opening. To remove this plastic trim panel, gently flex the trim panel under this bracket. To install the trim panel, start from the bottom, placing the trim panel in position at the floor level and over the strut tower, and, again, gently flexing the top edge of the panel under the strut hold open bracket. The hatch is heavy so be careful not to bump whatever you use to hold the hatch open. These plastic panels are usually very fragile from age and are easily cracked unless your is a new reproduction panel. This is my method, and others might have other methods. FWIW Dan

Check out Banzai Motorworks, Banzai Motorworks

Just as a point of interest, my original owners manual for a '71 series 1 240Z describes the operation of the water temp gage. It states that the normal range for the temp. gage is between 170F and 220F indicated. It further states that should the gage read over 240F for more than a minute or two, stop the car, have the engine cooled down, keeping the engine speed at 1,000 to 1,500 rpm, and then check coolant level. 220F on my gage is just a hair over 3/4 needle travel, considered the high end of NORMAL. I bought my car new in Tucson and drove it in the hottest climates for over 138,000 miles. The temp normally resided over the right leg of the M for most of that time with the A/C on, 100F+ temps, in the deserts of Arizona, California, and the plains of Florida for 42 years. The engine had never had any issues. A contributor to this sight, Dr. Joseph Demers, had presented a way to calibrate the temp gage by measuring the correct resistance in the temp sending unit. I used this to calibrate my temp gage and the reading now perfectly matches temps I am getting using my infrared thermometer. If I can find his article, I will add it to this discussion. FWIW, Dan

Great points, Chris. And, to take these details a step further, the black covers on both the original valve stem cap, and the new iteration offered by MSA, have the word PACIFIC with STARS embossed on the top. The Metal base of the new cap offered by MSA also has the word PACIFIC but with no "stars" incscribed on the barrel of the base. Just my opinion, but I think, for total originality, the most obvious difference has to be the shape of the metal base.

Thanks Bob. The shape of the metal base is obviously a closer match to the original. I have an original on my NOS spare tire and was able to source four more to use for the 2012 ZCON show.

Bob, Nice, inovative, solution. Well done! Did the black plastic/rubber protective cap come with it, or where did you source those? Dan

Mike, Could you tell me the approximate cost of chroming one plastic "D" hubcap medallion? Thanks, Dan

Datsun Z & ZX Parts, Datsun 240Z 260Z 280Z 280ZX Nissan 300ZX Parts

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img001.pdf I had the same questions when I purchased my car from the dealer new. It is just the nature of the beast. My car, recently restored to include a rebuild of the engine, is completely stock with the correct new gages and oil sender unit. At idle, the oil pressure goes to a needle off the 0 mark. At cruise speed of 3600 RPM, the pressure reads approximately 45 PSI. This has been 100% normal for my car for the last 42 years. The page I have attached is from Wick Humble's book, "How To Restore Your Datsun Z-Car" by way of a reasoned explanation from a professional. This is not to say your car may not have other related issues, but only to shed light on a very common complaint from day one. Dan

Hello Fred, I had the same, or similar, problem with my '71 Z. Turned out that the ignition key lock tumbler had worn out and was not engaging the electrical ignition switch mounted on the back of this key lock by two small phillips screws. My indications were intermittent starting with the same accessory click you hear from the passenger kick panel area. I bought a new key lock assembly and problem solved. To check this on your car, it is possible to remove the plastic steering clam shell housings and unscrew the ignition switch on the back of the ignition key lock. There is enough room to access this switch. Then, using a screw driver inserted into the electrical ignition switch, turn the switch, which obviously by-passes the key lock, to see if your car starts. Worn key locks on our early cars is a common problem. When removing the plastic steering column clam-shells, keep track of where each screw came from. I think there are 5 screws holding these plastic covers together. Good luck, and hope this explanation is clear enough. Dan

B is for hood release cable A is for speedometer cable Heater hose holes - Yes A/C hose holes - Yes And, if you as asking the purpose of the hole in your third picture, it appears to be in the firewall on the passenger side and was probably used for a drain tube from the A/C evaporator mounted under the dash. What is the vin # of your car. I am guessing it is a late '70 to early '71 series 1 with a vin between 15000 to 20000. Good luck. Dan

Dan, glad I could help. In restoring my car, I have found that generally there is no "definitively correct" in many situations. As your vin # is not super-early, I would be very comfortable in using that single "service Instruction" decal shown in the link I mentioned. As you had said, your carb setup has no "adjust screw C" which rules out the large tuneup decal, and without the snorkel carb heat, the other two decals are eliminated. So, in my humble opinion, you would be correct either using the single decal or no decals at all. It all depends on the vision you have for your car and preferance for decal under-hood eye candy. Good luck with your project. Dan

240dkw, I am going to make an educated guess about what would be correct for your decal. My first guess is that your air cleaner may not have had the snorkel decal or the tune-up decal, but just had the single maintenance decal. see this thread forhttp://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/23843-question-air-box-sticker.html by way of explanation. My second guess would be that possibly your air cleaner housing did not have any decals at all. It has been said that very early, ie., 1969-70, car had no decals. I just did an advanced search for "air cleaner decals" and came up with a lot of good reading. Dan

Blue, you could put all I know about electrics on the head of a pin. Most of the time, my responses to these threads are more a question looking for clarity. The stock positive battery cable clamp had a plastic cover protecting this cable terminal in the event the battery came loose and the positive post came in contact with the inner fender. Dan

JDM-CAR-PARTS.COM has had these hoses reproduced and offer them for $75 with free shipping. Dan

Blue, I have always assumed that the purpose of this rubber insulator was to cushion the battery frame/firewall surfaces, and prevent damage to these surfaces. The long J-Rod that secures the front side of the battery frame to the battery tray doesn't have any isolators, so, I never thought of this rubber insulator as something meant to electrically insolate the battery frame from the body. The bolt sold at Banzai has a large flat washer to help hold the insulator firmly in place, and this rubber insulator is partially split so as to fit over, and protect, both sides of the battery frame mounting tab. Let me know what I am missing as I don't mean to mis-interpret what you meant. Dan

You could buy the same item from Banzai Motorworks for $13,and, for another couple bucks, get the correct machine screw. I guess you have to figure out if it is part of the vision you have for your car. I put one on my car because it was an original part for a factory correct restoration.

Hi Matt, I am almost certain that the hatch hinges along with the hinge shims and hinge seals were mounted on the car, without the hatch, and painted at the factory. Two things I do know for certain are, the hex head phillips machine screws that securing the hinges to the body ARE PAINTED. The two flat head phillips machine screws that secure the hatch to the hinges were NOT PAINTED. This can be seen in the picture attached in siteunseen's post. I had done a lot of research when restoring my car to verify the finish of these machine screws. Some of my reasoning to come to this conclusion is, had the hinges been painted separately, or mounted without the seals during the factory painting process, the process of putting those hinges on the car, or mounted unpainted seals after painting the hinges, would have probably marred the hex head machine screws in the process of installation. Knowing that these particular machine screws were indeed painted, they would have needed to be repainted or retouched ( not a very efficient process to me). Hope this helps. Dan Original Owner/hls30-20419/ Gold Medallion Curses, you beat me again, Arne!

There doesn't appear to be any type of seal. The e-brake handle bracket looks like it just bolts against the outer tunnel. Nothing shows on the parts diagram.

If you were to restore these lines to their original finish, they would need to be replated in yellow, or golden, cadmium or zinc. As this would be very expensive, another option would be to paint all of these lines. Eastwood sells a Golden Cad System to include Gold, Red, and Green Tint aerosol paints and a Diamond Clear for additional protection. Just an idea, but you can check it out at eastwood.com. Dan

looks like it could be the wiring for the emergency brake light on the dash.

I'll have to second this method as I had a NOS glove box and didn't want any blemishes on my resto! Just remove three or four machine screws and the fan motor and attached plenum drops right down. Be careful not to let the mounting tabs scrape or gouge anything in the process.

Banzai Motorworks, Banzai Motorworks also sells the single piece outer rear deck weatherstrip. There parts are top quality.

I checked my parts catalog and there was a change in the overriders for build dates after 7/72. Other than knowing that the newer overriders were somewhat wider after 7/72, I couldn't tell you what other differences might be involved. I would check your build date and the part numbers on the rubber pieces you acquired. You may have earlier rubber parts for the later overriders. Hope this helps.