HS30-H

Some holes are too big for No Nonsense foam, so when you fit a complete impact-bumper type rear panel on your 1970 production-dated model you'll just have to put up with some nonsense like this:

These cans are quite large, so you should have enough to do BOTH sides:

More tea, Vicar? After you've welded on those used rear quarters, Frankenstein style. you might find a few unsightly gaps need filling. We have just the product you need! No Nonsense expanding foam fills the space lacking in your integrity as well as in your car...

But if, by some twist of cruel fate, you end up needing to hide some of these small errors of judgement, you can rely on the wonders of modern polyester fillers to get you out of the hole (so to speak...). The same guy who did your welding is pretty good at this sort of stuff. He's pretty handy with the spray gun too. It'll be all but undetectable. Trust me.

Car needs a replacement rear quarter? Well, make sure you follow the old maxim; Measure Once And Cut Twice... Or was it the other way around...? Anyway, make sure to do the same on both sides.

Rubber-bonded Harmonic Dampers get old, the bonding can perish and - worst case scenario - the outer ring makes a bid for freedom. No problem! Just break out the white Tipp-Ex correction fluid and paint some new timing marks on what's left. What can possibly go wrong?!

To follow up on this, here's the above-pictured cooler as it survives today. 50 year gap between photos:

There's a nice - circular, historical - link between the Castrol brand and 'our' cars too, as they were big sponsors on some of the Works rally team cars in period:

Cuba Libre!

Indeed! Great detective work, Kats. I don't know if it is of interest, but the old UK concessionaires 'Datsun UK' recommended Glasurit (German) brand paints for repairs back in the early 1970s. They quoted mix formulas for #903 Blue Metallic in both their 20 and 21 Line paint systems. I would imagine that they must have been quite a close match to the original Nissan paints at the time?

Yes, there were dedicated mount points in the radiator sore support panels. Top mounts required brackets between the (captive nut) mounts and the cooler and bottom mounts bolted straight through the core support. The top mounts have a certain amount of 'spring' built into them, which is most likely designed to give some vibration damping effect? Here's the cooler on my 432-R replica project car:

Nice parts Kats! I'm not sure which is the best way to count the cores? Do you count the sections (cores?) or the joints? I would suggest the sections are the actual cores? I can't remember how many sections are on the two 432-R coolers I've got, but I'll count them. I also have a Works 240Z rally cooler and I count 19 sections (cores?). Here it is in period, still attached to the (heavily crashed) car that it came from, one of the 1973 Monte Carlo Rallye cars, built in 1972:

Also, Nissan very kindly supplied us with orientation clues on the lens itself. If the lamp unit is mounted correctly, the arrow will point to the front of the car and the 'RH' or 'LH' script will be legible and not upside down. RH and LH of these cars is as viewed from the driver's seat. Simple.

It's a later mis-transcription of 'Rim'. 1970 C-187 Japanese market factory parts manual gives: 26182-E4100 RIM-side flasher lamp.

There's a public distribution restriction on it.

PM me your e-mail address and I'll see if I can send a PDF file to you.

Don't take it too literally. 'Blue' passivated Zinc isn't really blue. It's just a handy identifier for the slightly blue-grey hue of what is otherwise known as 'Clear' passivated Zinc. The 'Clear' passivate gives a slightly cold bluish tone to what would otherwise be a very silvery and bright natural Zinc in its un-passivated state.

The main point I was making was with regard to Cadmium. People still talk about 'Cad' plating, but there were no Cadmium-plated parts on these cars. The majority of the 'clear/'blue'/'yellow'/'gold' finish plated parts are Zinc.

22710-N4400 is part of the catalytic converter operating system on later production NAPS (Nissan Anti Pollution System-equipped) Japanese market models:

I'd be interested to hear what process/chemicals the company which re-plated your parts used to put a passivate coating on your zinc-plated parts. If it isn't Hexavalent Chromium, what is it? I think it's just old habits/assumptions dying hard. Yes, Cadmium plating used to be common on auto/moto parts (British motorcycles used to be covered in the stuff), but Nissan - along with most of the other Japanese manufacturers - found alternatives from the 1960s, largely prompted by national health scandals involving Cadmium being leaked into water supplies. There were instances of several other poisons being leaked long term, such as that which caused the Minamata Disease scandal (Methyl Mercury). Really horrible.

Pretty much all 'gold'/'yellow' finish plated parts on Nissan cars.

In fact there was little to no Cadmium plating on these cars. By the late 1960s the use of Cadmium plating in the Japanese domestic automotive and motorcycle industries was being severely restricted, for obvious reasons. Nissan used Zinc ('亜鉛' = 'Aen') plating to protect most of the steel parts on the S30-series Z, either with a 'Clear' (sometimes called 'Blue') passivated finish or a Gold (also called 'Yellow') passivated finish. The Gold passivate is Hexavalent Chromium.

Inspired by a couple of recent posts on the Bring-A-Trailer thread, here's a thread to show some of the 'It wasn't me' type beastliness inflicted on cars by previous owners or their paid minions. I think we've all seen them. To get the ball rolling, I present to the jury this absolutely arcane replacement fuel filler arrangement on a 1970 car. I had been asked to perform an inspection and appraisal of the car for its new (and somewhat green) owner before he commissioned a restoration by a specialist here in the UK. Being an early Japanese market variant with a low production volume, a second opinion was being sought and I was happy to oblige. Lots (lots!) wrong with the car, and this particular example was not even the worst of it. A used rear quarter (in fact, totally the wrong type for the production year of the car...) had been attached but it must have somehow been supplied without its original fuel filler 'box', prompting the attachment of something from an entirely different vehicle (answers on a postcard please) and some mind-bendingly arcane domino-effect er, 'fabrication'..... I'll let the photos speak for themselves, but just add that the latching mechanism (look closely) was verging on 'field repair' genius...

I wouldn't put too much faith in the 'JDM' part of the description by the vendor. The term is often misused. In this case I think it more likely that the vendor is referring to something that was made in Japan, and has come from Japan. EGR was required in Japan on the S130-series and other domestic market models which used the L28 engine. The L28 was available in Japanese market Cedric and Gloria models from 1975. Factory type code of this spec L28 engine is shown on the factory label. 'HL469V'. That's the key to correctly identifying it.

A wise choice, in my opinion. It can be difficult to know where best to wind the clock back to, or indeed whether the clock should be stopped in just one place... Kevin Bristow faced a very similar dilemma when he acquired 'TKS 33 SA 3640'/'PTE 337L'/'HS30-00879', his 1971 RAC (and more...) Works 240Z rally car. He had to contend with period-repaired damage, deterioration and further damage - caused by decades laid up - as well as a few missing parts. He finally targeted a restoration of the car to the way it was immediately prior to the start of the 1971 RAC Rally, but - pragmatically - also including some of the patina and minor modifications it received in its post-71 RAC rallying career, each of which has its own story to tell us. I think it turned out well. The trick is to avoid throwing out the baby with the bath water.