EVILC

They are very good quality and is made by a member in our club NYZCC. I compared them to the ones on #1905 before it was sold and like Chris stated they are very close to the original clips. They do make locking the inspection lid easier and take less force to "slam" shut. If I were doing a resto job, I would want them. I know he also makes them in a few colors for the guys who want something a little different. If anyone is looking for very straight 69/early 70 lids email me. Clive.Bogle@gmail.com I have a set that needs to find a good home.

I have a NOS panel I would sell for $300

So big weekend and I will start with this picture: The gf (Marsha) expressed interest in owning a Z car after our last club bbq and wanted a turbo car. We decided since I already had the #1905, I would keep it and refund the deposit on the car since it had been 4 months and the buyer had not picked up the car and closed the deal. I also have a 82 zxt with 63,000 miles……perfect project. So while getting the car ready to be moved to the body shop, Will expressed extreme interest in #1905. He had been looking for a new shell for a project because his car was shot. I knew of a 260z that had been bought by a friend over the weekend and it was offered to me before he offered it up for sale to turn profit. Hmm, an all original early 260z in our future? Went to check out the car and after an hour of going over it, I was going home with it and surprising her with it! A few phone calls - horse trading and both cars went to new homes. So I drove the car home from NJ to the shop in the BX and told her to stop by. She fell in love and has now named it Baby Z because of how it looks next to EVIL Z. So details on the car – Early 260z build date 1/74. CA car with 91,xxx miles. Flat tops were ditched for rebuilt 3 screw SUs and still has the 4 speed behind it. This is the first Z I have driven/own that everything works. Seat belt buzzer, defrost, radio, heat…..I mean everything. Car starts right up and drives well. Even had all the original jute and clips that hold down the carpet. Minor rust on the floors, two spots really because since the car came to NY it has been outside. One of the weather seals are leaking and both jutes were soaked with water. Paint has been touched up in spots but retains some original paint throughout the car. Dash is cracked of course but least of our problems. But we love this car! The car won’t be painted for a few years but will get head light covers, front air dam, wheels and a mirror. We are planning a turbo swap but will wait until all parts are gathered. For now she can just drive and enjoy the car. I think I enjoy driving it more than EVIL Z! Pictures:

Just removed the LS1/T56 out of my car to upgrade to a LS2.

Have you guys seen this before? Looks nice: http://cgi.ebay.com/Datsun-240Z-1oz-Silver-Proof-Coin-/200541502401?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_203&hash=item2eb1347bc1

I ran my through the door pin: Drilled a hole on the door than lined up with it and put the wires in a black heater house. Looks neat. This is how I mounted the switches: front -

Can you use your car for 2 or 3 track days during the year with Hagerty?

I have spoken to this guy a few times over the last year or so. When I was interested in the car it was a parts car and now it should be treated as sush since it has even more damage. Unless you have a 69 car in need of small unique parts there isn't a reason to buy this car. Saving it.....like Chris said should be done if this was your first car YOU owned or something like that. All those years out doors I can't imagine the shape of the car now. If it was closer I would have grabbed it for any of you guys who needed parts.

Nice pics!

Funny stuff! How about 170mph? LS1....... Before you post on HybridZ.......read around and come with a mature post. They are not as nice on HybridZ like here on classic....hahaha

I have a similar problem. I can push the rod down once my doors are closed (windows down of course) and I can use the key to open the doors but can't use it to lock the doors. I removed both door lock boxes and notice that some of the plastic around some of the points were worn or missing. Later this year I will pull the door apart to change them out and install power locks. Be sure to check that your plastic joints are not worn....this is the area that your hooks go into. Like stated, easier to just get a "newer" set. GL

Bates, when you buy this car....stop over at NYZCC.COM and let us know. One of our members just bought the 260z

Hey just thought I would throw this out there for anyone who likes to see low vins and may know something about this car. Vin is a 1/70 car but does look like it has been changed around, 240z badge gone, hatch gone, orginal motor gone, and color change. I will try to find out what the car goes for. http://www.copart.com/c2/individualLot.html?lotId=10799800&searchType=onSaleNow#

Thanks Steve. I will update this thread as the car moves forward. I am ordering new fenders this week and some other items from the dealer. I also need to get keys made for the locks and ignition while the car is gone to paint.

I am the second owner of the car and it has been a NY car its entire life. Was bought new in NYC and parked in 1976 until I found it @ the end of 08. Should start up by this summer and move under its own power! Going to be a vey nice driver and like Dave said.....saved from the crusher. All the early parts have gone to a good home.

Ready for body shop in two weeks!

Wish you had a pic of the safety switch on the manual trans, never seen that yet.

I was just reading MSA's site because I am ordering their pulley and bolt kit. I am in the middle of building a L30ET and this is my first build. Thanks for the info and glad you got it fixed before any damage was done to the motor.

My 71: V8--6speed--q45vsld--blast to drive!

I say get the 370z and sell car #2. We both know you love the v8 Z and I would keep the 70 car. I myself is thinking about a 370z vert and getting a winter beater. Where you been?????!!!!!!!!!!

Correct, the light circuit has not been completed yet. The hazard switch, brake switch and flashers all tie into one another. Dave I would buy one of the color diagrams from Ebay to help with the wiring and colors used.

Exactly.

Those look great! They look just like the NOS sets I got rid of early last year. Great job and I know guys will be all over this.