Diseazd

I bought 4 front and 4 rear 240Z European bumpers....paid $1519.00. Wow....less than $200.00 each. Sorry to see them go....I always had good luck with Black Dragon. Good Luck to all the good folks at BD!

You gotta love the human race! He needs to list that on "Bring a Dump Truck"

Exactly....I had a throw out bearing seize and the rotating finger tips of the pressure plate actually welded to the bearing. This locks up the collar to release arm.....thus torquing the shaft that broke. Transmissions are cheap.....replace the front cover with a good part. Ditto on the pilot bushing....when swapping from auto to manual, it's crucial to install a pilot bushing!

Beautiful Z, but the Woody Staub Z is my favorite. Absolutely beautiful!

Cut the head off 6 pan bolts.......loosely install them in several well spaced locations......slide the gasket and pan onto those headless bolts......get someone to hold it up tight.......thread in a half dozen real pan bolts, then you can install the rest of the bolts....remove the headless bolts and replace with good bolts....Voila!!

Looks stock to me......Isky charges $175.00 to regrind. Depending on the lift, you'll need springs and lash pads. You mentioned .500 lift......should not be a contact problem if you overbbore your L24 by .030 inches or more....also, you'll need a shorter valve seal. What engine are you running?

Good job Blue......nice illustrations!

What about cows? Wanna race that horse?

I don't drink often, but when I do drink, I drink often!!!

Does anyone else think that those hone cuts look awfully big? I think if it were me, I'd have another machine shop do another hone cut.....wouldn't cost much....good insurance. BTW, I think you can still get Nissan 73 Pistons at your local dealer. The flat top without reliefs are NLA........and I also believe if I remember correctly, ITM pistons come fly cut for the L24 motors. SB.....can you look and see if the Pistons that came out are ITM or Nissan? And Siteunseen....can you take a pic of the chambers in that E88? Just curious. Love your dog....looks as crazy as my pooch

Awesome....steel (L28) seats, valves and a nice Stage III cam and you'll be all set! BTW, when you install a higher lift cam in the L24 head, you'll need to install low profile valve seals to keep the bottom of the valve spring retainers from beating against a stock (taller) valve seal. Your block has already been over bored .75 mm (.030 inches), so you should be all set there.

If you have the low compression E88 head, I'd dump it for an early E88 or E31 head. The 73 heads are low performance. If your car is a 72 with the original motor, you should be running an early (good) E88 head. Get steel seats (L28) installed and L28 valves and a higher lift cam and you'll get a nice boost in performance

Yes.....the 1973 low compression 240Z's came with fly cut Pistons......and yes you can go up to .500 lift (Isky Stage III is .490 lift) as long as the L24 block is over bored .030 inches or more.

Wow Rich.....It just doesn't get much better than that! Congrats on an absolutely beautiful car!

Matthew......My L28's with the shaved P79 heads and Isky Stage III cams build about 170 h.p. To the wheels (200 to the flywheel), with SU carbs. They pull hard through all rpm ranges.

I couldn't agree more......Isky Stage III (.490 lift) is no problem for the street......or with SU's. You'll love it! You do need a performance spring so they don't stack, but Rebella sells an outer spring that can be used with your stock inner spring and retainers for about $100.00. You'll need to geometry the rockers with thicker lash pads regardless of a .460 or .490 used.

We appreciate your low rates for "baby sitting"! You do a terrific job.........."Keep up the Fair Work"!!!!

Mike.....You should have used the function on the thread you just nixed!

A good friend of mine bought the car. He doesn't know how much it's worth either. However, with so few original cars left with all the parts and docs, in restored condition, it should bring a hefty price.

Probably because you can get into some "serious dung" with that much power in a little car like that!

I'm really enjoying this thread.....Great work Sweaty....I'm a big fan!

Don't really care what his personality is......he made a great contribution to the Z community......his R/T mount works great! I'm grateful.

Just my opinion Captain.....why wouldn't you install the R/T mount and never have to do the job again? The bump stop from above keeps the rubber from separating on the diff mount below.

I'm with Cliff.....get rid of the brass....go to steel. While you're at it, get rid of that late E88 and get a better head....you have a low emission, low compression head