Diseazd

Not a Z, but still a nice Datsun. These shots of my 1972 510 were taken in 1988. That's Five and Dime on the front porch in the 2nd shot. He's 9 years old.

225 50 16 are going to be tough to keep from some rubbing. Front valences will need to be adjusted to prevent contact on sharp turns and in reverse. 205 55 16 will be easier, although the 225 50 16's will fill the well better.

BTW.....I've driven the beast! It drives great, handles great and has six gears that will "Rip the cape off of Superman!"

Attached are pics of an automatic tranny crank.....the last pic is with no bushing.....two of the pictures I put the bushing in the hole partially and one pic of the bushing alone. Hope this helps. When installed correctly, the bushing is tapped all the way in. I didn't do that, because I wouldn't be able to retrieve it. BTW....Whatever happened to the guy who started this thread?

Just went out to the garage and checked a motor (l24) pulled from an automatic 240z. The crankshaft had the large opening in the rear of the crank. I have a spare 240Z crankshaft bushing. It easily taps into the hole to accommodate the manual input shaft. Can't imagine why your bushing wouldn't do the same if you're dealing with a crankshaft from an auto Z. BTW......you're right....if you're not rebuilding the engine, it's easy to simply install the bushing from under the car......simply tap in the manual bushing.

philipnl......My automatic tranny crank did not have the brass bushing in it......I always take my crank to a machine shop.....have them check the tolerances, straightness, and polish the journals. I always replace the bushing on manual cranks and on automatic transmissions, I have them install a bushing. You need to make sure your crank has a bushing when you go from auto to manual. If not, you'll be pulling that engine right back out. :disappoin

I know Steve.....a former shadow of yourself. Jerry.....Nice hair!

Skinny boy eh Steve?

Anyone got some oldie but goodie pictures of their early Z's? Mine was purchased in 1970....silver on black until it was tailgated in Atlanta. Great memories then....and now!

Yes....an auto driveshaft will work fine with your new 5 speed. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/40158-73-auto-removed.html This post should help.....been there done that....it's a fairly straight forward task.

......and if your cat drinks the anti-freeze, you'll lose your other mouse trap. (Cats love anti-freeze, but it shuts down their kidneys).

Coilovers require sectioning of your struts by someone who knows what they are doing.......Eibachs are a much much cheaper option and can be installed in 4 or 5 hours. Ride and handling are superb. While you have the struts off, I might suggest installing new Tokiko Illumina shocks....the combo works great. I have Ground Control Coilovers in one of my cars and Eibach/Tokiko shocks in the other cars. Handling is very similar for each set up, and if you don't get someone knowledgeable to build your coilovers, you'll create more problems than you solve. I agree with Oiluj......stick with Nissan rubber bushings....urethane can be squeaky and harsh.

Don't worry Bruce.....I don't like odd numbers....there are more purdy new carbs in my future!

Merry Christmas Bruce.....I told the wife I wanted a new set of Ztherapy carbs for Christmas. She reminded me that I already had 5 sets! Oh well.....maybe in 2014 for Happy New Year!

Z Doc in Roanoke put a Mazda turbo rotary engine in one. It would fly!

Who built that thing and what drug was he on? Must have found a close-out on fiberglass.....they ought to use it as a prop in a horror movie....just blow the damned thing up so no other Z catches what it has! :sick:

Right DJ....Doesn't matter where the sproket is, as long as the new one goes back on the same way as the old one came off. Paint works fine as long as it doesn't getted rubbed off.

DJ. You need to get the bright mark on the chain lined up with number 3 and cam locating mark (as shown) for reinstallation of your chain. Don't want to miss by a tooth.

Steve....where did you find your Nismo? I was told they were all gone.

Everything looks right.....crazy about that sprocket. Make sure you're wedged good and tight.....don't want to have to drop that pan and pull the front cover looking for a dropped chain. Also...make sure your number 1 mark is where it is in the first picture (lined up with the bright link on the chain) so you go back the same way with the new sprocket.

Simple........Wedge the chain and install a new sprocket.....doesn't appear to have the "v". Maybe it was manufactured on a Monday or the marker was texting. :stupid: IMO

I like her tennis shoes..........

C/R ......9.7 to 1 to 10 to 1........h.p. .......180 to 190 at the crank....160 to 170 h.p. at the rear wheels....all numbers based on shaved P90 head and .040 over flat top pistons and a Stage III cam. As Steve says....detonation should not be a problem with the modern P90 head. Just make damned sure you've got someone building the motor that knows what they're doing. The total cost of a professional build should be about $4,000.00 give or take. It's a perfect street motor.....you'll really enjoy it.

Eliminate the belt by taking it off before cold start.....

Awconroy.....Sorry...I'm stumped....it's possible I guess that the pushrod is too short. I'm not familiar with the 280 slave cylinder....guess the piston is spring loaded to allow for auto adjustment. You could use the early slave cylinder with adjustment....it may or may not solve your problem. You could order a early slave cylinder and clutch fork. Give it a try....at least you'll know the travel of the slave cylinder piston should be right