billcapp

I think the one I saw on the back of a pickup was the best ever... "Mustache Rides..5 cents"

That really is a good question! I've often wondered myself how long is a reasonable time for a primed car to sit before painting. You are right the primer will soak up moisture if left for too long. I imagine where you live plays a big part in this also. Humidity, as in Florida, is a major problem even if the car is in a garage. And if you live in a dry climate and keep it in a garage I imagine you have plenty of time before protection is required. If anyone has an answer I'd like to know. Is there a primer/ sealer that would work? I think I saw this somewhere on this site before.

I plan on replacing the shovel handle I now use to hold up my hatch soon.. when I do get one from them I'll give you a report on it and if you don't find another source, I'd be happy to acquire one for you and ship it. Bill:bunny:

See the following from the Autozone website: MIGHTY-LIFT HATCH/HOOD/TRUNK LIFT SUPPORT for a 1971 NISSAN/DATSUN 240Z Unit Price: $34.99 Core Value*: $0.00 Part No.: B95704 Weight: 1.25 lbs. Warranty: LLT Availability: Online: Ships within 2 business days Store: Special Order :classic:

A car parts supplier here in the US (AutoZone) claims to have the part. You may try to get info and/or order online at autozone.com. This will fit all ZEDs that use only one support strut. Good luck..............:nervous:

Brings back fond? memories.....

HAte to be the one, but your image doesn't work.

Hey Okie, I feel for you. Good that is! I wish you the best in your new endevour. I'm sure you will do well. I wish I could do the same...I'm tired of the timeclock myself. Have lots of talents but not one heart throbbing desire to do the same thing all day long. Still...good luck!

So you need some help? I purchased a washer pump from my local AutoZone store. It was the exact replacement part and was very inexpensive (forget how much - but under$10). Check this site for parts for sale first. Hubcaps are available; depending on the quality you want the price will vary quite a bit. I will soon be posting all my unused parts for sale on this site when I get an inventory of them i.e. I have the original wheels and hubcaps along with a CA smog air pump, original steel fan and clutch, stock exhaust manifold as well as other parts. I did find that AutoZone carries quite a few replacement parts. I have purchased a starter, thermostat, washer, brake master, vacuum booster and other parts. They claim they have the replacement rear hatch strut also...which is hard to come by for the single hatch strut for the 70-73 or 74. Hope this helps also.

Watch this guy from Washington... , he may steer you wrong! NOT!!!! Escanlon has always been right on target. DO check out the fuse box first for corrosion. If you want to pull the fuse box it is a simple chore (one screw) just make sure the battery is disconnected. If the fuse box checks out the next most likely culprit would be the switch stick. That is another whole ballgame to tackle if you intend to disassemble it. If you are quite mechannically competent (ie. take things apart just to see how they work--and can put it back together in working order) then it isn't all that big a deal. I've taken mine apart down to the ball bearings in the switch (don't ask) to try to fix my running lights. The plastic piece inside was broke and not really repairable so I"ll be looking for a replacement. Good luck with your task and check back often if you need further assistance. This group is the BEST for help!!!

Enjoyed the video but I think the driver was being just a bit reckless in lane changing without signaling.

Zlishous, Great looking 240. Engine swap looks to be a really neat job. As for the 260..honestly I never cared for them as much...less power and more weight, but I'm sure it's OK for a DD.:tapemouth

How much did the paint job soak you and did you do it in totale (meaning did you strip it all inside and out with all interior removed or what).

Hi All, I recently boought a rebuilt head from a small shop for a really good price. Only problem is the head has surface rust on all the moving parts. Question is, is there any thing good enough out there to clean it without complete disassembly, or is it advisable to tear it down and then clean it...if so with what? The cam, springs, guides and all are light coated with rust. I'd like to use it this winter. Also, when it is cleaned what do I put on it to preserve it until I install it? TIA Bill

EScanlon; You never mentioned the reassembly of the lens to the frame. A couple of years ago I disassembled mine (almost exactly as you described) along with the cleaning. When I was ready to put them back together, I decided to use a bead of clear silicone. It worked really great and the slight exhaust smell I had is gone. I imagine there is some standard two-sided adhesive foam that can be purchased, but at the time I didn't know if anything was available. Anyway, that was an excellent well written post. I am sure the "club" and others will benefit from this.

I have purchased the VB exhast system with my hard earned dollars figuring to save by installing it myself. DON"T DO IT! After much cussin' and banged up hands, I had to give it up. It would not fit right. I finally caved-in to take it to a muffler shop to install it. After that the shop told me I wasted my money. It was easier and less costly to have him make a custom pipe to use with the kit muffler. He used aluminunized steel and welded the complete system (2 1/2 inch pipe). It came out excellent for fit. I ended up using only the header and muffler--threw the pipe in the trash. The sound is awesome though. for what it's worth.

I recently had my light switch go bad, but it didn't spark. I disassembled it to see if I could repair it and I did manage to do just that. I believe your switch IS shorted and draining the ignition circuit enough to make it die when you turn on the lights. It's best to remove the circuit plug from the switch, get a schematic and check it for a short. They aren't cheap to replace. You may want to check a junk yard if it needs replacing. Bill

Hey Guys, EScanlon about summed it up pretty well. For the past 20 years I have used the red and white rouge sticks on a cotton wheel on a variable speed drill. I have polished many differnet items including my valve cover the brake master lids to the containers along with other aluminum wheels. It hasn't taken more than a reasonable time to do the work. I found that over the years that if the material is in really baaad condition I would use a 1000 grit wet and dry paper first (lightly) to get it to a fairly smooth and clean point before using the rouge. well that's my 2cents.

What happened under the bumper? Looks like the turn signals are missing and the bottom cowl is different. Other than everyone elses comments, it's not all that bad for a non stock.:stupid: :stupid: :stupid: ...sorry...don't know what this ending means

2MANYZs had the best advice. I too had a problem drum. I just cleaned up the studs, applied penetrating oil and rapped it all around from behind and on the sides with a hammer and blocks of wood. Just keep at it; it will eventually come loose. Bill 71

All Baddog & all Z ers, I've followed this thread and I don't see consistent results given. Some points I'd like to make. 1. Has the temperature guage been checked for accuracy. I stuck a thermometer in my radiator to compare to the guage. I'm supposing that the middle mark is 160 Deg. If you use a 160 Deg. thermostat then it stands to reason that the operating temp is usually around 170-180 Deg. if everything else is normal ie. outside temp ~80 Deg. This means the guage should be reading just above the middle mark...am I wrong? 2. I do beleive that the AF mixture plays a role in cooling and release of heat. The recommended mix of 50/50 provides for the best protection of overheating (running too cool doesn't appear to ever be a problem) and too much AF will not provide enough heat transfer. That given...how much coolant did you drain off and replace with water? Is your timing and idle now correct (7.5 Deg BTDC @ 750 - 800 RPM)? Did you also check your dwell...if so what is it? Some other questions I still have..... Just how much better will a fan shroud do ( in degrees of temp drop)? Has any one looked into or experimented with oil viscosity differences as to oil pressure readings? Usually at 94,000 miles I would have an inclination to use straight 30 W, but with my Z having 180,000 miles on it ( still all original engine with not even a valve job yet) I use 40 W. My pressure always reads normal (almost to the bottom of the guage at idle (800RPM) and in the middle when cruising). I assume this is normal. Being in a hot climate 40 W should be used anyway. How much better is a 4 vs. a 3 row radiator (in degrees of temp drop)? Will a electric fan provide better cooling at idle than the stock (nylon with properly operating clutch) fan? Will it make a difference with or without the shroud added? (On a '71 240Z) Living in Florida, heat is always a big issue:( I used to have the dealer add-on AC (York compressor) and the engine always ran too hot. I had to turn off the AC every time I came to a red light; but this was before I replaced the radiator with a 3 core and replaced the stock metal fan with the later year nylon one. I plan to solve this cooling problem so I can add a 280Z AC system. I'd like to still be able to drive during the summer months here (March to November) and you guys up north complain about driving in the winterLOL ! Well enough of this yak....if anyone has the answers to all the above, please be sure to address all issues raised into a complete package of the best solution for cooling. I sure would like to know. By the way, some other news to spread around. I used the newest coolant out - supposedly GM is now using a 5 year coolant (red in color - stupid idea) available from Prestone. My brother-in- law mechanic working at a GM shop said a bullitin came out discontinuing the use of this coolant because it causes premature wear of the seals (I never asked what seals). The other news ( I posted this elsewhere) was I was told by a parts house that "water wetter" leave a buildup of residue in the radiator and shouldn't be used.. anyone hear anything about this? Well I look forward to a lot of noise from you fellow Z ers.

Oh yeah, Redline "water wetter" added to the coolant will drop your operating temp around 10 to 12 degrees, i'm told. HTH, Jeremiah