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About bajcsi

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    Registered User


  • Map Location
    Central Virginia
  1. So, hey. I’m at a point in my life where I’m thinking about getting out of the game. Life marches on and I don't have the time, space, or inclination as much anymore. After 25 years or so, I’m kicking around the idea of selling my (early) 1977 Datsun 280Z and am trying to figure out how to price it. A lot of work has been done, but I still have paint and body to do. See below… Any insight? Heck, any serious interest? I'm in the Richmond, VA area. I've put around 3k on the motor as it's mostly been a weekend driver / day trip car. Thanks, Bajcsi ---- Motor: Dyn
  2. I received my 4 back issues and I must say I'm very pleased with publication. Well done! Question: Issue #5 is current. If I order the subscription (print), will I get #5 or will #6 be the first that I see? Thanks, Brett
  3. Dang, that's a good catch. I hadn't thought about that. I need to check out all the links and also ask the shop about replacement. It's been a crazy day at work so I'll take a look at those tonight.
  4. I just ordered all the back issues and will sign up for the subscription. Thank you for your efforts in this.
  5. But I so enjoy taking this motor apart Actually, I enjoy driving my car more. It's a joy and quite peppy. I was NOT able to do a leak down test tonight. Family duties called and by the time I could, the time was getting on to where I would both the household if not neighborhood with the noise of warming up the car. I did take all the pictures though. It looks to me like the threads on the plug are basically clean. The plugs themselves, including on #3, show no signs of fouling. The red tint, from what I have read of people complaining about the stuff, is because of the octane booster I r
  6. Howdy AJ, I'll be able to dig into the motor a bit tonight. I'll get the additional pics, run the leak down, etc. As for the repair, it's not a helicoil. I BELIEVE it's a timesert (++ TIME-SERT Threaded inserts for stripped threads, threaded inserts, thread repair stripped sparkplug's, Ford sparkplug blowouts, threaded inserts threaded, repair stripped threads, stripped threads, inserts threaded inserts, Ford spark plug repair,) but can't say for sure without checking with the machine shop again. Regardless, I'll get the pics, check the threads, etc. Thanks for all the good feedback and s
  7. Oh, there is usually a bit more. I had wiped it the other night and didn't run the motor this morning before taking a photo.
  8. Hey guys, I did check the plugs, and they don't appear oily. I'll have to pull again tonight and take a picture. Regarding the thread repair, I farmed it out to a second machine shop port matching my intake to my head. Per the suggestions, I'll see if I can determine if it appears to be more of a thread/plug sealing issue which I imagine I could check by seeing of the ID of the timesert shows signs of the same substance as is leaking. If not, then I guess that means it's coming from the OD where it seals to the head. See the below attached photo. I'm very confident it's not coming from m
  9. To echo everyone, thank you very much for your efforts!
  10. Hello all, I'm having a frustrating problem and I wanted to get some opinions. I've searched quite a bit but haven't found anything that either I haven't tried or was relevant. That back story: I have a built 3.1L stroker (not done on the cheap) with E31 head running somewhere north of 11:1 compression. The most runs well with good compression across all cylinders. The head has had a sigfnificant amount of work done. Another piece of infromation is that it has a timesert in sparkplug hole number 3 due to an issue with the head that predates me. I'm running triple webers and Electromotive
  11. Hey Lazeum, I finally got away from my 8 month old twins long enough to install my MAP sensor and Knock Sense (Engine knock detection and indication for all vehicles)... I reset my timing and went with the following: 8 degrees initial +18 @ 3000 (26 total) +2 @ 8000 (28 total). The MAP sensor allows the HPX to adjust the timing a maximum +15 degrees at idle/no load cruising. Still pretty conservative and there is room to play. One thing I don't like is that I'm not able to configure how much MAX timing at idle. That's why I went so low with initial because with adding 15 degrees,
  12. Hey Lazeum -> I guess I should have been a little more forth coming. I'm running an unshaved E31 head with larger valves cut and a bit of headwork. My pistons are set of JE Pistons that I had them build to my spec. They are flat tops with valve reliefs. I'm running distributorless with an Electromotive HPX. I am currently running it without the MAP sensor though it's absolutely on my list of things to do in the near term. DCOE 40-151 carbs. Regarding timing, I've erroring on the side of extreme caution until I had the motor broken in as I don't really have a lot experience in that depar
  13. I would definitely like to see the dyno results as well, Zedyone... My engine build is a little silly in that I'm at about 12.5:1 compression according to the calculations but it might be a little less. They look something like below (when using the calculator posted above). Unfortunately, I also have DCOE 40's which most say will be fairly limiting with my motor. I'd actually prefer to run ITB's but that's not really in the budget just now. Anyhow, I have yet to get it on a dyno as I'm just finishing the break in process also. I run 93 oct + the NOS Octane Booster in every tank. As for
  14. Each valve lines up with the appropriate port on the head. So just look across the head at the intake and exhaust header and you'll see which valve is which.
  15. I buttoned up my stroker, installed it and hooked most everything up. Tomorrow is carbs and test drive.
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