zKars

So first post about parts. Drivetrain.com has rebuild kits. DTS -BK104 in various forms with and without synchro's. Some have said the synchro's weren't great, but the Nissan ones if you can. Nissan can also supply all the bearings and bits. Few if any hard parts. EuroDat supplied this spreadsheet of Nissan Parts numbers. Tranny_Rebuild_FEB2012.pdf

Lucky me. I have about five speeds in my yard and in various cars, few of which I know much about. Parts come, parts go, you forget who you got them from, were they any good, blah blah blah I just went through a frustrating experience trying to do a 5 speed swap for a local Z guy. First 5 speed I grab is my favorite, a backup I've kept around for years in case mine blows up. It's an 82-83 close ratio zx five speed, you know the one, tall shift ears, one muffler hanging casting, nice tall 5th gearing. Drag it into the shop, stuff a shifter in it, can't do much but select 1 and 2, and neutral, but it's locked up. Input shaft only turns the output shaft in Neutral.... Huh????? Go grab the "next best" 5 speed. Shifts fine on the floor, all gears turn the output shaft. Stuff it in the car, go for a drive, can't get it in 5th! Just grinds. Oh crap. This spawns my thread about "I need a 5 speed close by!". So far only one offer, too far away. So. Time to man up and learn how to do a rebuild. Here we are. I really want my close ratio five speed working. I have another one in my dime that's making noises I don't like too. I'm replacing it with a C fresh C type with L bell housing, but I will be good for other projects. I showed this video in another prior thread. It's why the one 5 speed is locked up. Yeah, no kidding...... FS5W71B_bearing_problem .mp4

I'm in the process of rebuilding a one, maybe two, or three, not sure, FC5W71B transmissions. It's just about the LAST thing I have yet to do on (to?) a Datsun. Always thought it was too hard and needed too many special tools. It's not. I want to record details of what I found and did along the process, but not in the usual way. -I will NOT take a video of the whole process. There are plenty great ones on YouTube. I WILL record the URL's of any helpful video's I find to help centralize the source for those videos and maybe critique each one's strengths. -I will NOT add the 300 photos I will take along the way. I WILL take photos and add notes on the tricks and traps and useful organizational methods I found and used along the way. -I WILL make one post that lists ALL the tools I needed. Some I bought, some I modified, some I made, to help you to understand what you will need if you try this. This will either convince you can or CAN'T (or shouldn't) -I WILL encourage you to attempt this yourself. It is not hard, it is just very detail oriented. -I WILL list parts sources for parts I find, especially new sources. -I will make notes about commonality I find between the various 4 and 5 speeds, if that turns there are enough to mention. For example I need a 1-2 shift fork for a 82-83 trans. What other trans have the same fork? Any? Stuff like that. Now onto the good stuff

So I'm doing my homework and watching all the YouTubes (there are 3 excellent ones) and one of the "suggested for you"'s was one on how syncronizers work. I'm thinking, well, it's probably pretty basic, but let's watch it. One question I've had in this, is diagnosing what's wrong. Such as how do you know if you need new synchros? This video show's problems with synchros and how to tell what's wrong. Good thing to watch.

Perfect! Thanks. Just took the beast apart. I wonder if this could be the reason for the inability to change gears? hahahahaha Looks mint in there other than the loose ball bearings and bits of cage laying around. FC5W71B_bearing_problem .mp4

I may be about to start a FS5W71B rebuild and this thread looks pretty handy. Looking at drivetrain.com, they seem to only have -A, and -C references to their parts, nothing or little about the B trans. When you look at the 280Z and 280ZX applications in the various sections, the 280zx appears in the A and C sections, which at least for North American cars, the 280ZX did not have the C trans. Which exact rebuild kit did you order? It sure looks like the DTS-BK104 series. Searching the site for FS5W71B, they list this https://www.drivetrain.com/parts-catalog/manual-transmission-rebuild-kits-and-parts/mrk100601-nissan-5-speed-fs5w71c-fs5w71b-overhaul-kit but the picture shows applications from 84 onward, ie a "C" kit. Just found Grannyknots thread, seems he ordered the BK104. It is about the only choice. Help!

My personal favorite. Other than the correct pressure range, 35 gph flowrate, proven quiet operation, threaded fittings (no hose clamps), years of good service in several vehicles, a remarkable resemblence to the OEM pump, it also has an internal filter. https://www.facet-purolator.com/gold-flo/ Specifically the 40002E with these specs https://www.facet-purolator.com/tech-information/

View Advert Wanted. A Decent Nissan Z 5 speed Well my stash of 5 speeds has dwidles to two. One that is locked up, and one that you can't get into 5th gear with power applied. Before I go off and source a C type and go through that process, doesn't anyone "close by" have a decent late 280 or 280ZX 5 speed they KNOW is in good condition? Would pay decent money for it. Let me know. Short ears, two muffler hangers, short ears one muffler hanger or long ears one muffler hanger is ascending order of preference, but WORKING and not in major need of bearings is much more important. BW turbo 5 speeds need not apply, not that desparate yet.... ? Thanks Advertiser zKars Date 11/26/2019 Price $400.00 Category Parts Wanted Year 1983 Model Z or ZX

Yes! Teflon tape might work VERY well. Thank you! Couldn't get enough PC to stick to those bolts to make a difference.

Must be a widespread disturbance in the headlight mounting related force. I'm dealing with this as well today. I plan on using M6 insert nuts to replace that plastic nut nonense. My dilemna at the moment is how to give the bolt friction with the threads in the insert so it stays put. I could use a spring like on the SU or most DCOE idle screws I suppose but I'm going to try powder coating the bolts and see if increasing the OD with the plastic coating adds the friction I so badly wish for. So much for "doing away with the plastic" nonsense I guess.... I'll let you know how it turns out. BTW, the Dorman part referenced above mounts in a square hole. Easy enough to create with a file from the existing 8mm hole. Would be a slick solution if it works

Just gonna leave this here... And on Amazon.ca, $5.88 CAD with one wrong connector... If you want I'll change the one wrong connector and only charge you $20. CAD.

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Assuming the old pinion worked before, you have the pinion housing in 180 degrees wrong. Typically there is one slot where that little hold down plate engages, but someone previous may have used the "other" pinion type and added his own slot to make it work. Have a look of there are two slots on yours there are two types, the slot is 180 diff from the other. The pinion is offset in the body so you have to have it oriented correctly or it will not engage.

Seems I have a little macro building to do a bit of parsing on a few "08" parts numbers and fill a few new columns with some details! Then remove all the 08 part numbers to a separate sheet. Swore I'd spend less computer time after retiring. Oh well....

Ok, so here is an interesting little spreadsheet. Somehow I managed to harvest all the S30 part numbers from a certain on-line resource... Now you can do a little sorting and searching a bit more easily. CPM_Fiche_S30.xls

Thanks Zup for sharing that picture library I built back then, pretty much forgot I had done that. I seem to remember a wish to build an app that uses the parts fiche database in a spread sheet so you can click on a part and get a real life picture of it, starting with the hardware pictures in that file. Somewhere I realized how a big a job that was and you know.... I have a couple of other files I guess I should share. Like my wish to build a reference document that shows all the variations between parts over the years. How many times have "we" had to explain "again' that 77-78 doors aren't like 74-76 doors aren't like 70-73 doors. Again, large effort, but I've been blessed over time to have examples on hand of all the varieties of fuel rails, and consoles, vinyl, and gauges, etc etc. that would make this possible, just not the co-ordinated effort of taking and organizing the pictures and then building the website or populating a massive "one of these things is not like the other" or similar CZCC Topic. Anybody got a smart tech savvy young'en they can lend me for a year?

Tanks these louts and to all that serve!

I just gave 6 to Wheee, but I have some left. Send me a PM and we'll share contact info

What if someone had a spread sheet with all the Z part numbers from carpartsmanual.com? There is only about 17,000 or so.... Shirley your Nissan parts friend could put those in manually and see what pops up, right?

I know there are least four different column covers. 2 240, 2 for the 280. The 240 ones are interchangable with careful wire tucking inside The 77-78 is viturally huge compared to the 74=76 version to allow lots of room for larger connectors on the wiring harness inside.

The rotors sure look like the same ones used in the Z Stage 3 Toyo 4 pot conversion that uses a four bolt Z31 vented rotor, spacer and the toyo truck wide calipers S12W. Haven't checked the PN yet, but I'll put money one it. The rotor is 270mm, pretty decent.

At last the package arrived and has been installed. I used the ZX kit on my 510 with ZX struts and spindles. Great quality parts. Installation was a bit of a head scratcher. You definitely have to do the bolts "just so" and in the right order or they ain't going together. The bolt that attach the adapter bracket to the spindle have to put in "backwards" (in my mind) with the nut on the inside. Bit tricky to start that nut up inbetween the rotor and spindle, but it can be done. All in the name of a small caliper and tight spaces. I was able to give them some feed back to change one set of fasteners to hex rather than socket head to aid in the assembly. I've been able to fit all my 15's and almost all of my 14's (stock ZX alloy and standard 5 D slot mags). One set of Z steelies would fit with a bit of spacer. Can't fit a stock 13" 510 steelie though. I have a set of 13" classic Libra's that are on another car that I pray fit these brakes as well. I know those wheels just BARELY fit stock ZX brakes, so they "should" fit these. I even have a Nissan Sentra donut spare (15") that fits! And all testing was done with NO spacers. Got my dime jacked up a couple of inches and running a set of Yoko winter's on my Swaztika wheels. Been out bedding the brakes and setting bias. Gonna be FUN this winter.

Just sold my last set. I have a set of the 280ZX tripod inner stub adapters yet if you decide to go that way. Only one thing I know, CV conversions are not cheap, there are no cheap solutions unless you are doing ALL the fabrication yourself. People's time material expertise and development investment is worth every penny they are charging. Best "Value" is still DatsunRestomod.com. Simple, remove old/bolt in new setup with same 8 bolts. No 200 bolts with safety wire and 3 sets of loose splines on both sides with the crappy Porsche 930 CV stuff...

Generally I see no point in drive by wire for "routine" use. If you have a good TPS, that's all the ECU needs to know about gas pedal position. Setting up a drive by wire is not trivial from what I've read. Also factor in the obvious old guy factor that wants a hard mechanical connection between my right foot and the throttle blades and you might need to temper my comments some...