zKars

A fact I missed until recently is also important. Study the picture on the inline stroker page that shows two gear carriers side by side. There are two different gear carriers with 180 deg offsets to the through hole depending on which trans has the retaining bolt up or down. You have to use the one with the correct offset or no-gear-touchy!

Amazing story! It is easy to think too deeply about the "why" of naming things, especially when you are in that situation. It would have been even cooler if it had taken them 26 attempts to get it right! (think about it.....)

Pretty sure it only traps the metal flange. Can't see it overlapping the plastic trim

If you have shaft play that would cause the motion to get out of hand or to get to a degree that you get reluctor gap issues, that might explain your problem. Or clearances get loose enough at temp to cause problems only when hot. Maybe. Don't buy the weak spark causes sooty plugs argument though. The only thing in the dizzy that is likely to temperature sensitive is the coil in the pickup winding. That shouldn't be RPM dependant. If its the ignition module, anything stopping you from doing a GM HEI conversion as far as the race rules goes? Tach will work fine with either 75-78 system. It comes right off the + side of the coil on both cars.

Sounds like fuel for sure but don't discount plugs loading with use. If you're running a bit rich, those dang BP6..11 wide gap (1.1mm) plugs don't like it. Try good old BP6RES instead. Also the new mech fuel pump may be not so great. Got the right thickness of spacer between it and the head? Got the spacer at all? A pressure gauge will tell the story. Good luck on the race!

That is a totally home grown floor you have there. The previous owner made a very interesting custom floor and yes (good catch S.) added zx cargo area bars to gain access to the hidden compartments in the front. It is true that 77-78 have a unique and raised hardboard floor compared to the early s30's, but it looks nothing like what you have. Maybe soom of the original hardboard or supports are still underthere, but likely not much. To recarpet this, you'll be getting it custom made, as the step in the middle there, makes this carpet longer than either of the stock carpet sets, and the unique shape will guarantee that any stock carpet will not fit correctly. Is there no end to what PO's will come up? Apparently not....

There is a popular method to replace these links with modern fuses. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fusiblelinks/index.html I'm not personnally a fan of this, as it is just about as weatherproof as the original (not), but it is likely MUCH better than your current setup. Replacing the stock one with another stock one requires you cut and splice the wires. The base has molded in contacts. The high currents carried by these wires require that you do proper solder connections and properly insulate the exposed wires or you'll be doing this all over again real soon.

Ok, now that is one pretty car. Now why can't that be the next Z shape?

That is the front diff mount. Any year will work (70-78). The late 260 to 280 are slightly different in the strength of the unit (more steel reinforcing) and a larger radius to the exhaust pipe clearance curve on the drivers side of it. Great time to get Zs-ondabrain's R/T diff mount too if you're not already on the list.

The housings are not the same. tHere are very distinct differences. Didn't we just discuss this the other day on another thread?

I see no Z there. Only fossilized remains... Sad indeed that what it was is lost, but it is now only a form that invokes strong memories and feelings that compell us to wish it back into being. Only a few of us have time, will and resources to attempt such a resurrection.

http://www.geocities.com/inlinestroker/ratio.html

Fantastic! Glad to hear it worked out for you. Any time I can help, let me know.

Its attached with a self tapping screw to the side of the frame rail above the tank back there, just beside the hole where the harness passes through the hatch floor. Bad news, you can't get to it with the tank in....

Check the voltage between the + coil terminal and a nearby metal ground point. Do not use the coil - as a reference. Do the crank verses run comparison and let us know. Run a wire from the + terminal on the battery directly to the + side of the coil and see if you get spark when cranking or if it starts. This will by pass the ign switch.

I don't see any indications of that being a cap. Looks like a mighty nice dash you have there. Hope it stays that way. As to adhesive removal, stick with Orange/citrus based products. Look for orange bottles with names using variations on "Goo" and "gone". Very effective, though slower, and no change of harming the plastics.

The stub axles threads are 20 x 1.5. Get the nut from the 280zx as Jon indicates. There should be no problem getting them Nissan.

You're about the steal the show. May not be fair to the other entries! On second thought, go for it! You will have fun, guaranteed!

Not any Datsun part I've ever seen.

It is entirely possible to overfill. The Nissan transmissions take a MEASURED amount of lube, you do not fill until you reach the fill hole!!!! 1.7litre for 4sp, 2 litre for 5sp. (ZX BW T5 may be different...)

The other day a friend and I were discussing our respective commuting bicycles (stay with me here, it gets better). I mentioned how my latest bike seemed SO much easier to peddle, feeling almost friction free compared to my old cruiser. It mentioned how the old one seemed to be down right hard to pedal compared to this new one in the same situation. Different tires? gearing? newer bearing? He immediately piped up and asked if I had ever changed my chain and/or sprockets? (see where this might be going?). He was not surprised at all, and offered this (to him) well known detail of bike maintenance. Change your chain and sprocket every year or two!! Seems we often talk about timing chain stretch here, but so far, I've only ever heard the discussion in terms of how it adds extra length, and "slack" and how that affects cam timing and ultimately how that's bad. Or how its getting weaker as a result of fatigue and may fail. But as I have come to understand, there is another side to this we have not been considering! Let me explain. What is it that actually changes when a chain stretches? Not only the entire length, but the spacing between the holes in each link increase! At the same time, what does NOT change? The spacing between each tooth on the cam and crank sprocket!!!! So what is the result?? The ever increasing mis-match between the sprocket teeth and chain hole spacing increases FRICTION between these components, which increases WEAR on the teeth, etc etc and the whole things gets worse quickly. This is why my poor old commuter has gotten progressively harder and harder to pedal after 150,000 miles (well, feels like it...) and why that new one just about pedals itself! It also may be very good reason to consider changing your timing chain on the ol' Z perhaps a bit more often then the NEVER, that most of do except at rebuild time. Just food for thought. Comments welcome. Not evening claiming the resulting changes in friction are robbing more than a 1-2 HP, but you never know. Maybe its a tuners secret....:stupid:

Dang! I was going to look last night and get back to you! Almost positive they are 14 x 1.75 or 14 x 2.0. The 14 diameter I'm quite sure of. The stud has different threads in the diff cover than for the nut, One of them is 2.0 pitch, and the other is 1.75, just not positive which is which!! If you can wait until this evening, I'll check for sure.

It seems like a shame, but there's nothing. Maybe the Nissan emblems are about the only thing that has any connection....

How would you like a whole booster? I'm assuming its the little one for your 70, I have an extra here. No idea if it works, it came from a parts car, but its complete and great for parts. Drop me a line z240@shaw.ca if you'de like it. Other than that, try a local shop that rebuild vacuum boosters. Yellow pages! (yellowpages.com of course...)

I am in the process of purchasing a set from them. Just can't resist. In their response to my email inquiry (from Vivian) they mention volume discounts. I have put out an e-mail to our local club members to see if there is interest before I pull the trigger on mine, but I would be interested in anyone from Calgary and area who is interested to contact me if they want in on the deal. They are quoting prices as low as $857 at set if we purchase 6 sets (front and rear). Quite a saving. Let me know if anyone is interested. z240@shaw.ca