beandip

I have a wireing diagram blown up to a 2' X 3' size of a early Z . '72 and earlier . There is nothing to show a controll other than the ignition switch . My ' 73 as far as I can see is the same way , however my wireing diagram is small and hard to read . I have been uable to find a shut off control so far. I have removed all of my '73 wireing and repaced it with a loom from a '72 . Having said that . I have installed a pressure switch at the same outlet the oil sending unit is mounted . I bought a tee fitting and a switch that will close at 5 Psi, The engine will start with the fuel in the float bowls and the fuel pump operates untill I either turn on the ignition switch or the oil pressure drops below 5 psi. You need to connect the pressure switch in the power line to the pump. The all green wire . What I did was , I took my sending unit with me to the parts store and bought a tee that was compatable with the threads of the sending unit and the engine block . Then found a pressure switch that was compatable with the tee and had two bullet connections and the pressure I wanted . I hope this answers your questions and is of some help. Gary

The front's are not that hard to do . Be sure to use wheel packing grease for a car with disk brakes. The rears are a different breed of cat . I have almost completely dissambeled my whole 240 and put her back together and I won't tackle the rear bearings. Like was offered on a eairlier post '' buy a manual '' . It's the best advice I can also offer . Gary

Along this line , here in Oregon it is now illeagel to cover the license plate in any shape or form. No glass , plastic or anything. Since the remote radar ticketing is now in force , two plates is being inforced and neither of them can be covered . About old plates , you can transfer a set of plates from another car . Dmv will transfer the information . So if you locate a period year plate set that is in good shape this is a possability. DMV here in Or. will not duplecate the older colored plates . They have a special interest plate for street rods and special interest vehicles plus one for antiques . They are restrictive as to use and miles driven . They are a permanent plate and a single plate is all that is issued. Cheep though $80. one time cost. Gary

Vary cool ! I bet you are happy about that . Not vary many of us have a picture published . Gary

Don't just look at a fuse or a fuseable link . Always check them with a multi meter . They can look good when blown ! This could save you hours of checking things and some money replacing parts that are good .

reread # 14 posting . Check to see if there is 12v to the starter when you turn the key to the start position . If you manually can bridge the contacts , and it spins the engine the starter is good . Look to the switch or the wireing from the switch to the starter .

I know that you have solved the problem . But for others that read this thread , don't just look at fuses or fusable links to see if there good or not . ALWAYS check continuity with a meeter . This may save hours and hours of checking . Gary

If the trouble started right after you messed with the AFM and and you found a damaged part . Start there first . Why do you question the timing if you havent ''adjusted '' it before this ? As to the timing marks . Look at the pully below where the degree marks are. Clean off the pully and you will find the mark . You may need to scrape away some grease and or dirt , but it's there . Some times the compression of the cylinders will cause the engine to stop turning in the same place or nearly so , that maybe why you are not finding the mark . If this is the case , remove the plugs and this wont happen .When you find it , Clean out the grove and paint with some white paint or some light color , chock will work . This way the mark will be easy to see with the timing light. These engines vary rarely will change timing all of a sudden unless there is a failure in the dist or something there is loose. Good luck with this . Gary

ssheldon , You asked about a dash and a consol , give this Co. a try . Dashboards restorations USA . www.dashgoardrestorations.com They were out of Queensland and now they have a operation in Washington state. I think they make consols also . Give Pete a try . The question you asked about the exhaust . Alot depends on what you intend for the Z . Many members go with 2 1/2'' pipeing and muffler , this is really ment for high end performance . If this is your intention consider that. For street use and normal performance and lower end performance 2 1/4 will be a better choice. The larger diameter plumbing will be noiser and will have a tendancy to drone and have a anoying resonence at crusing freeway speed. I have a 2 1/2 '' systime , with headers At present with a single Dynomax muffler . Sound of your car is a judgement call on your part . My systime is new and I may install a glass pack just back of the header . Do a search on the muffler plumbing issue , and listen to a few Zs before you decide . I am with you on the anoying 4 banger ricer buzzing sound . My self I like the low more of a rumble sound . By the way WELCOM TO THE CLUB. Enjoy your '' new '' car . Gary

FOR CLAIRIFICATION OF MISINFORMATION THE BORE ON THE L-24 and the L-26 is the SAME ! The stroke in the L-26 and the L-28 is the same . So a 260Z block is a 240Z with a longer stroke . So I guess you could call it a STROKER. Before dumping much money into the L-26 head , do some research on the cost of the porting and larger valves and such , then look to your options on a later year head as to combustion chamber design and intake and exhaust flow. You might have a look at the information on choosing between a turbo engine and a stroker. Money invested and H P between the two. It all comes down to '' Horse power costs money , how fast do you want to SPEND " I just noticed that James is from New Zeland . There 260s are a different breed of Cat from ours here in the US . They had a 260 for a number of years . I don't have clue on there specs. Gary

To respond to the question posed to Victor . You really cant compair Ford Mustang or a Bronco to a Z in any way shape or form , other than they all have 4 wheels and seats. For one thing yes a high HP engine will fit in a Z . I hav see a small block Chevy in a two wheel motorcycle. On Pacific Coast Hi-way. Just because it fits isn't the whole picture . These Zs have no frame ! Nada , none . So if you install a High torque big HP engine , you had better have done something to the body of the Z to go along with it. Some have built a tubular frame and set the Z body on it . Look at the funny cars on the drag strip. So yes any thing is possable , but for street ?? another matter entirely . This is what dreams are made of . Dream on . Gary

Blackjack ,You might check out hybredz.org there is alot going on there . It is not just a v-8 web site. If you think about it if you deveate from stock you have a hy-bred Z really . They seem like a bunch of good guys interested in the z car , and not disrespecting others . I not long ago was at a dyno shop on a local Z clubs outing. One of the employes put his Supera on the dyno , running twin turbos. Tunrned excess of 425 HP to the tires ! that would put a smile on your face. On there web site they have rules about posting and flameing others . Unlike this one seems to be getting to . Gary

Z Kid is right on the mark. Carl button your lip , WHO DIED AND MADE YOU KING ? Some times you are so off base I can't believe it. You are sounding like your avatar looks . Try decalf ! Gary

As for the painting of the suspention . Yes it was painted at the factory . As to weather to repaint , WHAT EVER FLOATS YOUR BOAT . I did with POR gloss black , gloss cleans off easier and I had some on hand after floor repairs. Gary

Justin , the correct port for the vacume advance is the one right in back of the front carb. Manifold vacume to the vacume advance , will make it go to full advance at start up and retard when you depress the throttle and the manifold vacume drops. The secound picture is correct. 10 BTDC I find on my car is spot on. Gary

ZMAN I wanted to mention one thing about my project. I saved a bunch of cash , and not on Gyco either , by doing all the prep work . I removed the old rusted floors and sand blasted the rust ,that was surface only, and did the installation of the new floors . I cleaned and preped the metal first . There was some bending and shapeing , not much but some . I screwed down the new floor with self-tapping sheet metal screws to close the gaps and hold it in place . This way all the welder needed to do is weld the seams and remove the screws and fill the holes. This saved hours of his time . I put the car on a trailer and took it to him also . Good luck with your project . Gary

I have done the same thing , however my Z isn't driveable yet. When I bought the R-200 the bushings and bar came with it , so I installed them. I have been concerned about this vary issue. I know that ureathane bushings on the suspention will transmit road noise and for that reason I dident use them there. My car is for street use only . If I find the noise is transmitted through the ureathene I will change them out. Gary

have you closed the deal ? Have you had a independant person have a look at it for you. A fellow member and I have gone out and inspected cars for buyers and saved them some air fair and cash. There are enough members spread all over the country that there may be someone that is close and willing to have a look for you . As an uninterested party. The last one we looked at was supposed to be a vary clean car and good running . Will it had lots , I mean lots of bondo , rusted floor pans that were ''repaired'' with fiberglass with out removing the rusted metal . The paint from 20' looked ok but standing next to the car it was obvious the preperation had been shabby and in some areas omitted. Having a Z driver have a look at a Z in my openion is important. Good luck with your quest. Gary Portland Oregon .

For what it's worth , I agree with 26th, Ed, and bambi K . Kroil and PB Blaster is in a completely different league for this application. WD-40 isn't close. I like the kroil first . Mainly because the Blaster stinks to high heaven. Works great but really smells up the garage. My garage is attached to the house and in the winter with the garage doors closed and all it stinks up the house . If I use vary much or it. About the '' E Z '' out they should change the name . I have never found them easy to use and if you snap one you will see what we mean. Good luck. I too have been working on cars a long time. I am 66 and started at 16 , you do the math. I learned about these two products about 4 years back and havent used WD since , other than to spray it on Salmon bait. Gary

zman , I had my floor welded by a certified welder and he had trouble with a MIG and ended up with his TIG welder. The sheet metal on the z is vary thin and not easy to weld because of that . If your serious about this I would take a welding class at the local Jr. Collage or a night school before you spend the cash on a welder. Then you will be able to make the correct decision on which to buy. My guy only charged me $300. to weld in the new floor on the passenger side , repair the driver side , 3 small patches. Repair the battery area where I drilled thrugh the inner fender with the spot weld cutter . When the new floor was welded in that included the center strut and the seat supports . I figure a decent MIG would be close to $250. mabey more . So for the difference . no way was it worth it . I am not wealthy by any streach , but if he was going to charge me $500. , to me it would still be worth it to pay that $250. difference. I know the welds are good and all is sound and done correctly. I have pictures if you would like . Send me a PM with your email address . Gary

Carl , Please reread post #1 , I am asking for the location and or discription of a '73 relay. I have a schematic of the '72 wireing blown up to a 2' X 3' and in color and I know there is no relay on the '72 . Thats my problem . If I need to install the 73 relay I need to find it and or it's location. I thought I explained what I needed sorry. Gary

Is Vickers a Z specific book or a general publication ?

I don't know if this is of much help but my Clymers manual shows two relays for the fuel pump . one shows a yellow and a black white and a black wires and is marked alternater they both show G W inter connecting both relays .The secound one has a black and black white and a yellow . It is marked starter . Hope this is of help. Gary :nervous: