beandip

There is a spray you can buy at the parts store. Generally it is caused from a glaze on the surface of the pads and or shoes. It is worth a try in any event . I haven't had the problem my self but know others that have on different cars. Now having said that . There are ''shims'' at least this is what they look like , that fit on the disk pads that are for this. Could be they were left off. Gary

LegendZ , I paid:laugh: $500.00 in 2000 . I was able to drive her home. I did the safety items like brakes and tires , then drove her for about 2 years. Then I spent the better part of 3 years in the refresh. With much help from my friend EScanlon. Things have changed in the Z market since then, greatly. My Z was in need of a new floor on one side and the roof was dented badly as well as the rest of the car was in need of body work. She was all in primer and I live in the wet NW . Fortunately for me the primer was over paint, so the rust under the primer was vary minimal. Today the same Z would sell for 1K maybe 1500 . It is difficult to judge from what we all have paid . Your location is going to dictate the cost greatly and as time goes on look for the cost to increase weekly actually. I don't think you can count the labor in figuring the value of your Z. Saving one of these cars must be a labor of love of the car. She now has a 82ZX engine, R-200 diff, New paint and updated wiring for H-4s and on and on . In order to keep costs down, and because I wanted to do the work my self. This is one of the reasons I bought her in the first place. I was able to save a bunch on money doing this. Otherwise I wouldn't have the Z I do today. I had to learn how to do body work , and how to properly detail and prep for paint. This is a large area of cost. To find a turn key car that you can buy and take out and auto cross will be in the 6K+ area I would guess. Gary

The cause ? you asked. Sounds like the keepers on the valve came off and the valve dropped into the cylinder. From what what you have said about all the shrapnel in the engine . It needs to be disassembled and a hot tank wouldn't be a bad Idea. Be sure to clean all the oil passages with a cleaning rod like you were cleaning a rifle. And don't reuse the bearings. Is the cylinder walls effected at all ? If not I would be amazed . Like was already mentioned , Have the crank checked along with the rods . You said that in wasn't long since you went through the engine. Did you bore it hone it , or what? With the engine all apart , having it honed and new rings would be a good idea. Providing the cylinder isn't scored. I am sorry for your situation . Gary:rambo:

Well astrohog, you covered a lot of territory in this post . The 240s are all collectible and like any car , the fewer there are the more valuable they become . If you have notions of restoration to concurs condition this is about a 20K endeavor. Any variation from original will be points off. Down to and including the bolts and nuts and washers. The concours cars are not driven. Think time capsule. In doing a refresh do attack the rust as it will never stop advancing if you don't. The diamond covering and seat covers are available from aftermarket sources like Motorsport and Black diamond , To Intense Restorations. If you are thinking of your Z as an investment then keep it completely stock and do a restoration. If you wish to drive the Z then do a refresh and do it for you. I did a refresh on mine . Took her down to a rolling shell , one step from a rotisserie . I painted a '05 Ford yellow ''screaming yellow''. I added a '82ZX engine and a R-200 diff. The exterior and interior is as original accept for the early bumpers and all the rubber has been removed from them as will as the guards. I had to replace the windshield so that is no longer Nissan . I have treated and done rust repair and sealed the car as completely as I could . I drive in the rain but not as a daily driver. When the nasty weather comes she stays in the garage. I live in the wet as you do, Portland . Gary

My sleeves wouldn't come out with the socket method. I had to cut two cuts about 1/4'' apart and peal the strip out then collapse the rest of the shell and drive it out. Gary

I was using the copper washers but found that they seeped. I went to ACE hardware and they have fiber washers specificly for drain plugs . No more drips. Gary

I am running a gear reduction starter and they do seem to spin the engine a little faster . It still needs to crank over a few times though . It is just the nature of the beast. You did mention that you are still running points . Burned or pitted points can also contribute to a hard starting . While you are looking at them look at the inside of the dist cap for corroded contacts , and scrape them clean if they have build up. You have been given a lot of good advise here from us all. One thing , DO NOT MAKE A BUNCH OF CHANGES AT ONE TIME. Take it one by one . Because if you make several adjustments and the engine wont run you wont have a clue which one it is . Before you spend money on choke cables . Why don't you disconnect the carb ends and pull the cable out of the sheath . If you find any kinks or bends in it straighten them out . Lube them up and reinsert them and you will see that they will operate vary smoothly . I didn't remove he sheath only the wire. and lube it up as you reinsert it. Gary

Bungs from a waist barrel ! I don't have a clue. couldent resist .

I have a '73 and have also early bumpers on the front with the early mounting. The front bumper is a re chrome but the quality is only passable. I personally don't like the rubber so I used stainless steel carriage bolts and polished the heads . They merely look like bumper mounting hardware . At least unless you know 240s . Try and remove the filler from your front bumper and remove the '73 shock mounts . Hold the bumper up and see how it fits when you hold it close . I have a '73 bumper and I have done this and to me it looks like the profile is vary close if not the same . The part numbers would be different because it is drilled for the filler . If it fits the front of the car especially on the ends you are home free . Just get a set of 240 mounts. Good luck . Let us know what you find . Gary

but ours are running ! I couldent resist.

If you look between #1 spark plugs down where the head meets the block you should see a P-79 . If that is what it is . It's a head from the same engine the block is. P-90 or 90a are turbo heads and much lower compression . The block is marked on the driver side and it is a F-54 if it is a '81 . E-88 heads came on three different years of 240 , or L-24 , engines . Smaller valves and soft valve seats . 47 is 280 head with square ports . I am not sure what year . This is a head many use . Gary

hold it kensz , he may just need to use his choke when the engine is not warmed . We don't need to tighten the lugnuts because the wipers are not working properly. Gary

Be aware that California has changed it's rules to include older cars in the smog testing. I have heard that our illustrious governor is adapting the same rules as Calif in Oregon . I have eliminated all the emissions on my Z and I see the air pumps alone have a core charge of $200.00. If in your area you do not need to pass emissions . I would pull the stuff . But keep it all. Just in case . Gary

It seems that drivers that are used to injection are intimitaded with the use of the choke. As if it was something detrimental to the engine. Just look at the choke as the cold start is for injection . The difference is you are the computer that turns it on and off. The choke will not hurt the engine it mearly richens the fuel mixture so the engine will start and run when cold. Cold is lower than 70 degrees . Gary

there is a fix that my friend told me of . It has to do with the vacuum advance and a limiter to the retard . Contact Kim Blaugh Smokyyaro@velocitus.net he is the owner of Idaho Z Car. He is a great guy and he can help . Gary

Look , once the boot is in place it is going to do it's job . What ever you use to make it slick that will not attack the rubber will work just fine . Soap or detergent or what ever is only to make the thing slick so it will slide on . I never use silicone on my car because it is near impossible to get rid of later. Especially if you ever wish to paint the car . If you get any on your fingers and touch ANY thing else you will spread the darn stuff . the detergent or spit for darn sake will make the rubber slick and will work . I rarely ever respond to your threads or post because they end up like this . You must make everything a debate and over the dumbest things .:sick: Gary

Tommo , have you ever heard of ''slicker than spit on a door knob '' use what the hell you want . The rest of the world will use the correct thing . Gary:mad:

It's obvious to me that this Z was not redone to be a concurs correct car. So if that is what you want to hold the quality to as bench mark . I agree that you would need to redo a lot of the car . As a beautiful car built to drive and show I still think it is worth the buy it now price. Personally I would NEVER buy a car on eBay unless I could personally look the car over . Especially one in this price range. And especially a Z . As to weather it is or was a flood car . I cannot see that the interior indicates this . Although it could be , and the interior installed after . I personally have no use for a time capsule . I drive my Z . Gary

Use dish washing liquid , it's just as slick as grease and will not harm the rubber. Gary

Jenema , go to the home page and look on the left side , you will find a event calender . I just checked and in April the three day show , a really big show will be held in your end of California . Good luck , you will see some major competition there . Gary

When you pull the choke lever back all the way and turn the engine over it should start after about two or three revolutions . Just as soon as it catches push the choke lever part way forward and keep the idle at about 1000 rpm. Once he temp gauge needle is off the cold peg , push the choke lever all the way forward . This is a normal starting procedure for a SU equipped engine. If you haven't connected the choke cables this is your problem. Holding the gas peddle to the floor has no effect in attempting to starting the engine . SUs have no accelerator pump to squirt gas into the intake like other carbs . The choke does this by lowering the nozzle also if you are using thin oil in the dampeners of the carbs this will compound what you are experiencing . 20w oil in the dampeners is preferred 10w 30 is a second choice. As for rclayton the '73 has different cars , flat tops, and I am not familiar with them , I removed them as soon as I bought my Z , and got her home . Gary:rambo:

If you need a new heater core . Radiator of Vancouver has them . 360 737 9622 steve@1800radiator.com Gary