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Nazgul280

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About Nazgul280

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    Registered User

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  • Map Location
    Lake Wylie, SC

My Cars

  • About my Cars
    1976 280Z, bored and stroked to 3.1, balanced and blueprinted, custom intake, p90 head ported, SDS full management system with crank sensored fuel and spark control.
    Official BRE Tribute Vehicle

Social Sites

  • Website
    http://s123.photobucket.com/albums/o301/ProjectDatsun/
  1. That's a good question. I will dig out my receipts for the strut insulators, but I believe they were the same Nissan part numbers when I got them in from the dealer here. I will see if I can rule that out. Could anybody who has this setup on a 280Z take the trouble to measure their spring lengths, front and back?
  2. Hi everybody, I've got a nagging problem that I am resolving to correct: I resto-modded my 280Z several years ago. Before I restored it I had put on the Tokico springs and Blue shocks (non-adjustable) for the 280Z. When this Z was in stock form, the lowering springs looked good, but since it was restored/modded I have dropped a lot of weight from the car, including the nasty bumpers + bumper shocks. I went with the poly 240Z "bumpers" (non-functional). I have never been happy with the ride height (stance) in the front ever since. I will attach a picture so you know what I am talking about
  3. Now that's some good thinking, FastWoman! Don't even think about reusing those old manifold gaskets!! ! You'll be driving this Z before you know it.
  4. Hmmm, they look like Aeromotive knockoffs to me! $130 vs. $28. Either that's a good deal or we are just paying too much for name-brand regulators!! Looks like they have a 7 day return policy, so if you hope to get a refund on a defect, don't buy it until you are ready to install and run the engine again. It looks like what you need if that's the route your going, which is a slippery slope in the world of modification. :classic:, but the price seems too low: the gauge alone is usually 10 bucks, and they are supplying the fittings, hose, and mounts too. I'd have a backup waiting if it does
  5. I have an aluminum fuel rail that I never used, but it is for o-ring type injectors and AN fittings or pipe fittings on either end. If you are keeping the barb-type injectors, I suggest Pallnet (Peter Allnet). He sells fuel rails for L28 engines that will bolt up to the stock intake manifold and have proper alignment for your injector bosses, but I took a look at his website and it looks like he is having machinery trouble. He supplies an email on his website: http://pallnet.webs.com/ I have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator after my fuel rail bolted to my firewall. It seems to dump
  6. Bummer about those injector bolts!! Use anti-seize on the new ones and you won't have that problem again! I've read your posts, and it looks like you've put a lot of thought into this. I just have a few thoughts that maybe you can consider... 1) Good idea to replace the temp sensor that you know is bad, and sticky injectors will certainly enrich the mixture. 2) Air leaks will make it run lean, and possibly raise the idle speed. 3) Cold start valve continually operating will keep it rich, and it's tied into the temp sensor for the cold start cycle. If in fact your ECU always thinks the en
  7. Draztik, you should start your own thread with questions, as technically you are hijacking Shade123's thread here. You will also get more responses as probably most people have stopped watching this thread. <: You might want to refer to the links above for help, it is really a great and complete trouble shooting guide for your 280Z. Shade123, how have you come along with the testing you have done per Blue's Tech Tips that was provided?
  8. Here you go Shade, this is probably the single most useful source in the Z car world for troubleshooting a 280Z: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/EFI&fuel.htm And here is the main page: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/ Read it and follow it and you will most likely find the problem this weekend! PS: as far as the Throttle Body is concerned, all you can do is make sure it's metering the proper amount of air for a smooth idle, and you can take the boot off and have someone work the throttle to see if it is opening and closing correctly. Usually there is years of gunk around th
  9. That's a good post to read. Start with the basics. Since you didn't tell us what Z you have, I'm going to assume it's an S30 (1st gen). Has the car been sitting for a long time? If it has, corrosion of the connections or the sender would be the first thing I would check. Before you get to pulling the sender out of the tank, your problem could be where the wires are attached to the sender. Mine were broken, so I used solder to make the contact good between the sender and the wiring harness, then covered it up with silicon to protect it from the harsh environment where it is. Anyway, read t
  10. I'm thinking the tension on the valves is gone? Buy new springs?
  11. Shade, Are you saying the engine won't rev past 4500 RPM? No power is one thing, but not revving to red-line is another. Honestly, the only thing that keeps an engine from actually revving is airflow (as long as there is fuel and spark and the firing order is correct, wink wink). When I built my engine, I had a custom intake manifold made, and it was made very poorly. It had so many air leaks that the first time I started it up it shot right up to 4500 rpm and stayed there. I am wondering if the flap is opening correctly, or if your fuel pressure is dropping. If you can see the pressure an
  12. jr260z, I believe I stopped by your Z at the show and we talked about the LED headlights. You are the first person I've seen with them, even before Audi can put them on their production cars!! Ron, well said sir! After telling this story to a friend of mine down the street, he asked if 4 years ago when I started taking the 280 apart for the resto/mod had I ever dreamed this would happen. The answer of course was a NO, but I am so glad of that surprise that awaited me. I took the time to thank Colin Price for all that he had done for the convention and told him that I hope Nissan realizes th
  13. Bonzi Lon, that is a good story! gnosez (John), it was also good to see your Z again, we missed it at ZdayZ this year. It was great to see you, and thanks for sweating out there as a judge all day long! I wish the Z could have been in a little better shape for the show, but i did the best I could with the time I had. Wow, 132 is FAST. I couldn't see the speedo from my seat, so I can't guess how fast John had it. It shows fast anyhow, and gets progressively worse as speed increases. John told me he hit the rev limiter once, but I didn't notice...I think the smile on my face blocked some
  14. This was my first ZCON and I have to say it was a great choice. As Zlady said, it was great spending time with friends and making new ones. The last day of the Convention turned out to be the best time for me, and I would like to share this experience with all of you if you care to read on. Thanks to the friendship of Ron Carter, Les Cannaday, Peter and Gayle Brock, I was given the opportunity to take my Z out on the track with them for the photo session, with John Morton in the driver's seat and me in the passenger (or as my old Nissan owner's manual said, the Assistant Seat). Wow! Fron
  15. Carl, Ron, Les, everyone at the Georgia Z Club and the 510 Club, it was an awesome time for me. My favorite parts were the friends I made and the people I finally got to meet that have inspired my Tribute Z (and of course the parade lap with the BRE team & cars). Thanks Thanks to Peter, Gayle, and the whole BRE team and their support members for making this happen. Carl, it was a real pleasure seeing your Baja 240 there in person! You did a really nice job with it. Cheers everyone! -Dana
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