beandip

:classic: On the care and feeding of the SUs once a month check the oil level of the carberaters in order to keep them operating smoothly. I have used 20wt oil and fine it to be the best in my car. This is also what is recomended by the builder. You can find 20wt at the local cycle shop . They have it as fork oil , they use it in the front for forks on the cycles. If you are not aware that there are oil dampiners in the carbs , the black plastic nut on the top of the carb that is in hand tight , remove it and there is a rod attached that sets in oil . if over filled it just runs into the intake and is burned , no worries, it only takes about a teaspoon full of oil to fill. this is real basic stuff but important if you are unaware of it Gary

This can be difficult, but there is a plug on the face of the drum that can be removed , if y ou can rotate it to the point that you can see the adjuster star wheel turn it with a screw driver and that should free up the drum. Now if you want to remove the drum then use a block of wood to protect it , and place the block on the FRONT outside edge and strike it with a hammer then do th e same to the oppisite side. What you are trying to do is rock the drum from side to side and dislodge it from the axle. Use blaster on the drum where it contacts the axel. It's the best penitrating "oil" I have ever seen. Any way keep striking the drum from side to side and top to bottom untill it becomes free . watch the center and you will see it move then work it off. You can use the block of wood on the back side of the fins and do the same back and forth action with the hammer. If you strike the drum with the hammer you will most likely damage the drum. Patience is the key. The PB Blaster is great for rust , the best thing I have seen.

use the rubber bushings much smoother . KYB shocks are close to stock I think you will like the ride.:classic: if you were going to do any raceing then that would be different.

If your 260 is a real early one they have a swaybar that I can use. The difference is that the bar as it extends across the body has two bends in it to clear the differential. Later cars were streight . I have a '73 and it was built 8/73 a real late one but it has the brackets for the sway bar but no bar. If you decide to part it out and it has the right part let me know. Gary as far as rare I think if it is kept completely origional concorse fresh that is , in the future it will be rare especially since it is an automatic. If it is modified then it is just another great Z:ermm:

I may be able to be of help , I know of one '73 that would be a great donor car. Not being driven but alot of the work has been done , all new weather striping on glas and doors and hatch , body is stright and rust problems repaired . It 's just sitting next to a barn and has been for some time. and there is another z that I havent seen but am getting info on seems the owner has it stored at a relitives house and now is in jail so the relitive wants the car gone. Something like that , any way I am finding out.. " If it wasn't for BAD LUCK you wouldent have any at all !!" hang in there carguy :ermm:

really funny thanks:classic:

I need to say one thing first , the pictures that Escanlon posted do not due justice to what they really look like , they really did turn out nice. Nick ,I have simular wheels to yours only mine have many more fins or spokes . If I remember right there are 40 and are about 1/4 " wide and like yours extend from the rim to the center where I have installed a set of knock offs. I have polished the spokes my self . The finish was rough in that it showed the tiny little ribs from the machining when they were turned. I used a file first to remove the small amount of a burr along the edges of the spokes, saves the fingers from cuts, and then used 400 grit wet dry sand paper and used it wet dipping the paper in water continually untill the turning marks were removed. I then bought a 4" dia. buffing wheel and used ruge to polish out the tiny scratches left by the 400 paper. I followed this with the POR polish. I then masked off the polished areas and painted with black metalic paint from a rattle can. This all took time but I did it on a week end and they turned out great , at least I think so. Being that your spokes are wide they would be easier and faster to polish.

escanlon is flicking me sh&^t , but he has one made into a continental kit and fitted to the back bumper and with sunglasses on . Color to match the dingle balls around the windshield .

A cyclops with a long nose. Now there is a mental picture:D

You are now infected ! SORRY THERE IS NO CURE Welcome to the pleaent misery. Let us know what you found and have . All the best .

this post is tarting to look like a kennel.

Tah the ol girl is gitten a little tired looking , I think I am goin ta shave her arse and make her walk backward. I wuz goin to do braces on thos teeth but the eyes I candt figure what to do with that!

This is exactly the kind of info I was looking for . I hadent thought of the flanges being different in thickness. I have already done the file clean up and plan to replace the mounting bolts with studs, seems like a better way to go . But thanks for the heads up on the washer arrangement . Now that I look back when I pulled the injection and headers off some one had ground the washers to I believe , clear the the intake and contact the flange of the header . I will be sure to check that closely , thanks. Also I am going to match the intake opening to to the head and gasket as well as the exhost to make sure alignment is as good as I can get it

I am pulling a pirfectly sound good 240 engine and installing a 280zx . I want to store the old engine and want to do it as right as I can . I plan to run the engine untill at normal temp and introduce mystery oil into the intakes to coat everything while the engine is running and shut it down and drain the oil , that is clean,and remove the filter. When I pull the intake and exhost manifolds spray oil into the ports and close with oil dampined rags. Question No.2 This Z has an auto trans. which I am going to be reusing, should I drain the fluid so as not spilling oil all over when I tilt the engine and trans to remove from the car . Also will there be alot of oil spilled when the trans is pulled from the converter. I have pulled many engines and trans. in the past but not automatics , and the engines I havent saved . This is a good one and I am keeping it at least for while , and want to save it. I am doing the swap at my Son's house and want to limit the mess.

Its beyond cold there. since I have seen your posts I have been watching the temp in your area. If you were to drive your Z what wt oil would you use in the carbs. Karosine ?? Ha only kidding . Thanks for the heads up on the gasket material. I have never used headers on a aluiminum head up intill the Z they have all been cast iron. where can I find the copper sealent you mentioned , I haven't had the chance to check the local parts store. We have been having unseamly warm and dry weather for us . Here in portland we depend on snow pack on the mountains for our water and so far we are a 40% of normal . We have had rain but it has been too warm. Usually now we are havinng 20deg. weather in Portland at night when the skys clear. but this year its been barely below 32. And day time its been in the low 50s. Hang in spring is just around the corner. :classic:

I can find gaskets I just want to do it right the first time. I really dislike having to redo , simply because of inferior quality. This is going on a 79 head and a 54 block.

Not just an affordable car but one of quality and style as well as performance. The vary best" bang for the buck ". I have to get rid of this unly dog. I dont mean the car but the avatar!

I know that I have read here that for a head gasket to use factory origional, what about t he intake/exhoust ? I am installing headers not stock manifold .

Peed, If you have checked the half shafts closely and are sure the u-joints are good , the only other thing is the diff , or wheel berrings. Jack up a rear wheel and start the engine and IDLE it in gear and listen to the rear end , you said that y ou just installed the new unit , did you have it apart? Could something have come loose inside ? By spinning the wheel you can listen to both the wheel bering and gears at the same time. Then try the other side.

I recently contacted my farmers agent because I am dismanteling the Z and it wont be driveable for some time. He suggested that we change the policy to one of not driveable and I am covered with comp. only , covering fire and theft. Cost $9.00 per year. When the car is ready for the road , at that time I will take pictures and he will insure the car with an agreed upon value policy . If Farmers will do it others should , check with your agent. There is a limit on milage and that varies with the policy . :classic:

:classic: I am not sure just what you are having trouble with , however I was having a surging of rpm from a standing start , say from idle at a signal and then a flat spot after , then smooth increase in rpm there after. I changed to 20wt oil in the dampners and it all cleared up. I went to 20 wt fork oil from a Cycle shop.

Just from the little info. given I think 1K is vary optomistic with the valve fixed. $300 to $500. for a donor is about right depending on the condition of the chrome and completeness of the rest of the car , knobs , weither t he dash is any good that sort of thing. If the engine is slugged to the point of sticking a valve and the brake fluid is as stated most likely it's a parts car. SORRY ! If the car was in good running condition and the brakes were good and the rust was mostly just surface not pitting and blistering and the floor pans were good $1000.00 sure. good luck:o

It appears that there are few dim bulbs behind the wheel as well an in there tail lights. I can't imagine some one wanting to dim the lighting on the rear of there car .