beandip

I think since it is cal car and all and you have access to a welder especially the car most likely is good , but do as was mentioned before , check it out . Look at the bottom of the front fenders just in front of the doors by the script , look for bubbling in the paint , also just back of the doors down low another place is ,with the hatch open on the sill corners. Another vary important place is the floor pan under where you put your feet when sitting in the car, both drivers and passangers side. If you are going to use the car for a daily driver , be aware of the age and know that components do not last forever , and the car will take maintainence . But if you drive it you WILL BE INFECTED AND THERE IS NO CURE. The best of luck Gary

Just how loose is it ? Try the bushing over the trans shaft to see if it fits there, should be a smooth fit not to tight or to loose . The bushing should be tight in the crankshaft and need to be tapped in place. If it is loose and has any play it may spin and it is not supposed to , and if there is too much slop and you locktight it in if you are off center you will may have trouble with the installation of the trans. I would take it back and make sure it is the correct one. thats my 2c

I have and engine on the floor and want to mount it on my new engine stand. What is the size bolts that connect the engine to the bell housing of the trans ?? The engine and stand is at my son's house 1 hr away , I know I can jack up my car and pull one out , but I thought if any one knew I could just bo buy what I needed. Thanks Gary

This is one of the beauties of these cars these engines are all built on the same basic block. There is a great site to look at that gives a almost complete rundown on the cars and what is what . You might find the section on carbs. most enlighting . geocities.com/engines2001/html I recomend reading the whole thing . At the beginning of the page you will find a note in white lettering , I forget the title but after reading the main info. check this out also. Gary

On the passanger side there should be two metal lines coming out of the trans tunnel next to the starter and they travel along the top of the frame rail. One is about 1/4" and the other about 1/8 " in dia. . The largest one is the delivery fuel line and the smaller one the return . Both metal lines terminate right near the alternator and the supply line then is connected to a fuel filter via a neoprine hose and in my case from the filter to the fuel rail, I am running electric pump only. The stock fuel rail is a loop that is the larger size and it runs along the valve cover on the driver's side and has outlets to the carbs . At the rear of the engine it makes a 90deg. bend and follows the delivery line back around the front and connects via a neoprine line to the small metal return line. When the fuel rail makes the 90 deg bend it is reduced in size, at the end of this line where it becomes neoprine , is where it is restricted down to restrict flow and maintain pressure. I hope this helps. Gary

Replace the diff. or at least rebuild it.

This might help there is product called PB Blaster , it is a great rust penitrater , apply it to the end of the axel on the drum,and let it soak. Then tap with a hammer an wooden block on the FRONT of the drum or out side , just tap all around and try to dislodge the drum , then do the same from the rear , or back side, being careful not to damage the fins . Be patience and it will rock loose.

There should be a return line that is running with the fuel rail and it ends at the front end of the engine by the valve cover. The end of the metal line is closed with a small hole that allows pressure to escape , and fuel to return to the tank thru a rubber hose connected to the return line. Now as for the pump runing , my pump is the same as yours and I am working on a remady , If you come up with a pressure switch from the oil pressure droping , or a elect. cut off if the engine stops . Pass on the info. and I will do the same. gary

the '70 -'72 are lighter but only by a few lbs. like maby 150lbs or so . The flat top SUs are junk but the 73 intake is superior , at least some think so . The '73 had a lot more smogg junk thats for sure and this accounts for some of the weight . where I live after 25 yrs no smogg requirements . I have a '73 and am running early bumpers and a automatic and if I remember right when I weighed the car it was 2650lbs or there abouts with 220lbs of me and full tank of gas. Royce what does '71 come in at about 2400 less driver ? I dont realy konow but I dont think it is much under that. I am not being a smart arse here or anything I am just palling on infomation on my car and what I have read , Gary

Put this in to the mix . It is entirely possable that the car was a automatic and was converted to a manual . The auto having a duel point dist. , kick down and thermo switch . I dont know just a thought , maby this is a cause . Somthing do do with this. Could some one have cobbed in wireing not knowing what they were doing , causing the tach problem , and now this mod has gone bad and shorted or just resulting in a open . There are persons that are knowledgeable in this area , and I am not one of them . Gary

I was not being critical , I was just wondering about the hight issue . Really there is no need to have the car spin all the way around that I can see , I just wondered why. As far as the bottom footprint is concerned , in my garage the floor is cracked and a little uneven and the thought of the car rocking while up in the air sideways just gave me the willies. I think you did good in your design. All the best. Gary

Ninga , I have been driving my '73 240 for the past 2 yrs and have had no problems . Now , I have replaced the front brake rotors and brake pads , the Master cylinder and rear brakes and flex lines . I have replaced the complete ignition to a '79 ZX systime and replaced the tires. I have completely tuned the engine , and replaced the battery and solved some , only some , of the electrical problems. I am presently looking at replacing the floors on both the passanger and drivers side , and I am in the process of removing the interior and dash , windows. engine and trans in preperation for repair and paint. When I am finished I hope to have a nice driver. I have a truck that I will drive in the mean time. I dont want to discourage you here but be realistic in your quest for a car . Non of this is cheep even though I am doing allmost all the work my self or with help of friends. And the car is really mostly rust free and in good shape. I have a garage which I can work on the car and have the time , as I am retired '64 next month, I just want you to know what you are in for here. If you do get a good car , keep it and keep it in good repair and when you are my age it will be worth $50k+

You and I had the same idea at the same time . I just take longer to type a message.

From your posting you appear to me as a young person that is looking for a first car . I maby wrong but reality check here is important . You are looking at cars that are no.1 performance sports cars no 2 they are in the area of 30 yrs old , which is most likely much older than you are . If what you are looking for is a high milage car, that is MPG , dont buy a Z./ If you are looking for a car that is a dependable . That will depend on you and your ability to maintain it . There are alot of avaible items to upgrade the 240 . But they are real upgrades not just muffelers that add 100 Hp and in reality, only just make noise. you can go to geocities.com/2001/engines.html a great deal of information in this area. Really it boils down to Horsepower cost money ! How fast can you spend. Dont expect a free ride. If you do buy one , we are here to help in almost every way . Good luck Gary

I am not an enginer but I was wondering , You stated that the car could be rotated just so far due to the driprail touching the ground. Couldent the rotissery be built just a little taller, also the cross bar at the bottom that lays on the floor , it looks a little short . It may be just the angle of the photo . When turning the car is it tippy ? I t just looks like the footprint is sort of narrow. Again it is probibly the angle of the photo. This is a great idea that you came up with and it looks like you are making great progress on the car.

Sad to say they are closing the doors for good , or bad depending on your perspective, in a couple of days . There are about 50 to70 cars going to the crusher. Sat .I am picking up a r-200 and rear sway bar for my '73 . I scored a '82zx engine a month ago. It's taped me out cash wise but I think I need to pick up what I can while things are available. Door locks that is something I am looking for, someone has jammed a screwdriver in the drivers lock and it is toast. Are these locks difficult to rekey ? What I should say is are parts available to repair them or the internals standard . My passinger door is one key and the hatch is another and the glove compartment another . Any way glad to hear you have solved the problem on your car. Gary

there is a bone yard and I am going there on Sat. to pick up some things and I am sure that they have a bar. All they have at the yard is Zs . If you want I will get one for you and ship it to you . Let me know I have now idea what they cost or the cost to ship it to you . If sleve can be pressed out that would save shipping costs . If any one knows of this let me know. Bill if you will pay for the bar and the shipping I would be glad to help. just let me know. Gary I also need to know what diff you are installing because if it is a 200 it takes a different bar.

He said that the pilot bearing was loose when he was trying to install it into the crank. Just how loose was it ? Just because it would fit over the trans shaft before installation , I wonder if it is off center enough to cause the problem . He was asked by one of us if he was sure it was the correct one , it could be the wrong part. Mike had a good idea also to engage the trans in gear so the shaft dosent turn when fitting. I also have changed several cluches and trans. and never had this much trouble. I have not done it on a z car yet but vary soon I am pulling the engine and trans from my car . I plan to pull both as a unit , the trans is an automatic , what do you think ? Being I havent done it to a z I would like input please. Thanks Gary

Did anyone see the Z that sold on e-bay last nite for $1800.00 ? I couldent believe it , it looked clean and was described as so and had a fresh engine . I t was an early car but I dont know what year , I just saw it as the time ran out . Col . car . Someone got a good buy.

That is unless you already have a XK-E

if working on the car and the owner is going to pay the cost of repair or sell the repaired car to the mechanic. I think that they should arrive at a present value , then the mechanic should keep track of his costs and labor and keep the owner informed on what he finds as the repair goes on and needs to be agreed upon by the owner , before further work is done . This should be documented , for both parties benifit .That way when the project is completed , in either way . The value or cost can be determined. Obviously the Z after repairs are done , will be worth more . This I think would protect both parties , and the owner should set a limit to what she wants to put into the repairs. If something were to happen to the owner the estate would have to pay off the repair costs. thats my 2cts

I would definatly get another openion , did the source of the openion offer to buy the car from you ?? The thing here is this , if you can find a body shop that does custom work, they will be the better source for repair and a experienced openion . Not to deminish the person that you talked to , but there are so many "body shops" that are just pannel replacers and not skilled in true body work actually forming sheet metal and doing the replacement needed when working on these cars. As Kmack has said , if you really love the car , repair it but dont do it for an investment. If you look at it that way you will be able to make a better decision. Some times the cost of repair of severe rust damage is too much and maby it would be better to replace the car with one that is in better shape. I saw one on e-bay last night that wint for $1800.00 I couldent believe it . It was in Col. now it mey have had problems too ,but there are cars out there that are vary much worth saving . The one you have may be one . By all means do some checking . As time goes on I believe the value of these car is deffinately going to increse because they are becoming fewer at an astonishing rate. Just 3 yrs ago I would see Z cars that early ones almost every day . Now its more like 2 in a month. In 1961 I sold my '32 Ford 3 window for $350.00 right now it would be worth $45,000. easy. The car to bring this kind of $ has to be show ready . The same with the Zs . Right now where could you buy a really fine sports car , for under $10K save the car if you can if the numbers work. Good luck , Gary P.S. The parts are available and not too costly like Kamack said.

Depending on how much the rust has eaten away. Unless you are aquainted with Z cars, check under the car the rocker and tranny tunnel is tht main part of the frame , if eaten bad enough the car could just bend in the middle. Your call.

I agree with Mike . If you want a project , for $200. , you are not into it too deep. Zedd findings has the sheet metal parts. check out datsunzparts.com

If you see any of the white stuff that I mentioned before , you might think about paint, any moisture coming from under the slab will cause the paint to lift. If that is the case then think about just using a sealer like Thompsons water seal , it leaves the concrete looking like it is wet . It wont peal or chip because it soaks into the cement , I don't know any thing that will penetrate it. Paint will not stick to it either .