Si|v3r72

YAY my vote is winning!!!

How much would you want for it and how hard is it to install? My dash is the worst part of my interior. it's 30 years old and has 4 large cracks in it and will only get worse as time goes by. A new dash would do wonders for my interior, but I have no idea how to do it or how hard it is to install.

Mike is at 666 on his post in this thread. EVAL! Way to go 2MZ's!

I'm talking top-to-bottom on a stock L24 by a Z expert. Valves, carbs, dizzy, all filters. I'm considering have a pro do my Z cuz I'm a newb and I just don't seem to be able to get it right. My mileage sucks and he claims he can get me 25mpg. In the long run it would be worth a few hundred for a tune. How much do you think a complete tune will cost?

I replaced mine through my local Nissan dealer's parts office. $80 for left side mirror, but it IS the original mirror - very good quality, very snug, and nice looking to boot.

I've had mine to 115, but ran out of road to go faster (no long straight isolated roads here). I can tell you though that it still felt like there was plenty of top end left.

Ok the dizzy comes out this weekend. As for books, I agree, you gotta have at least one. I currently have the original Nissan Engine service manual for model L20A and L24. and the Clymer Datsun 240-280Z Shop Manual. Both of these books are excellent IMO.

Ok I found the screw but it's stripped both inside and out. I can't get to it with a socket and the inside is too stripped for all size screwdrivers. SO, I can't budge the thing. I tried tapping a hammer on a screwdriver against the plate itself to see if I could get it to move but no go. I suppose I'll have to take the dizzy apart just to get to the screw, but I'm not sure if it's worth it for as little as the timing mark is off. Any suggestions?

I checked my timing today and it's just slightly off. I'd like to correct it, but I don't know which screw/bolt loosens the distributor so I can make the adjustment. Can someone describe which it is? FYI this is for a 72 240 with the single point dizzy.

My MSA catalog shows 10 different front air dams for model years 1970-1974, including a G-nose conversion. Some are fiberglass, some are urethane. Prices range from $99.95 to $329.95 + S&H (US). Not sure about painting. I'm sure someone else here can answer that one.

Ah yes, now we're getting to the meat and potatoes . Interesting approach hmsports. Sounds quite reliable. I'm still in the bottom of the learning curve, so I have yet to learn how to make valve adjustments. I'm pretty sure the valves are good or close, since I have good performance and no tapping. I WILL learn to do this though. Do you use a flow meter to balance after setting the mix? Royce, I'm aware of the function of the fast idle pin, and that this pin stays out at all times except when tuning carbs at fast idle (3000rpm is what I use). Good heads up though! One thing on the list to check is my needle position. Scott from ZTherapy shows how to do a simple and accurate needle alignment. For now it's just trying to get my mix right. I gave it another crack today and - viola - things are right with the world again. I HAD previously taken the mix nuts all the way up, but hadn't brought them far enough back down. My car sounds better now than it sounded before, and it sounded damn good at the time. Idle is smoother and my backfiring even sounds a little different - more little pops and less big pops. Yeesir, all is good .

that's actually pretty damn funny.

I'm having trouble understanding how to correctly set the mix on my roundtops. I knew for a fact my mix was too rich, so I attempted to lean things out, using the procedure described in the engine manual (reset idle nut and throttle pin positions, measure low and high rpm flow, etc.). According to the procedure, you first have to "reset" the mix nuts, thereby achieving a certain clearance between the needle tip and body opening (2.2mm I think is what it is). Well without taking the carb apart, this is damn near impossible. The book says to tighten one turn, then loosen 2 1/2 turns, then tighten 1/2 turn to achieve the desired starting position. Well what if your mixture is too rich like mine? That means the nuts will be lower than they're supposed to be and that you won't achieve the desired starting position. Next the book says to set the throttle pins to 600-700rpm, then slowly (1/8 turn at a time) tighten the mix nuts until the engine reaches the fastest and most stable speed. Ok, no problem, so I start tightening. Well, I keep tightening and tightening, and the engine slowly gains speed, but does not become unstable. I end up tightening the nuts completely and the engine is still stable. Will the car run like this? No. Toooooo lean. So I back the nuts off a bit more (2 turns) to try to richen it back up, but now I'm guessing as to where the final position should be. Would any of you SU nuts like to take a shot at describing the process of correctly setting the mix (daily driver setup, not race). I'm looking for better fuel economy. If you can describe it, a few "why's" along with the "how's" would really be helpful.

I'd say it depends on the condition of the rest of the car. If the rest of the car is mint, then it is probably worth it. Really it depends on your economic situation. I got similar bad news yesterday, not as bad as yours but bad. I took my Z to my body guy to fiz a hole in the passenger side floorpan, not knowing what the extent of the damage was. Turns out there was a hole about 3" in diameter with a good deal of rust around it. The rest of the floorpan looked ok. He patched the hole as best he could and sealed it, but alas it's only a "temporary" fix. Granted, it's probably going to keep my from having to do the whole job for quite a while (I hope to get a few years out of it), but right now it looks like the whole floorpan is going to have to be done eventually. My poor baby!!!

Hey grantman that's a perrrrty Z you got there. Nice choice and very nice price. I echo everyone else's sentiments that it's not fair that you have so many to choose from. If you guys knew how much I paid for my Z you'd prolly kick me out of the club. But I'm like BadDog - must have silver, and I had to ship from coast to coast . Anyway, I hope you have much better luck with this one!

Ok see I did have it wrong. You turn it to the right to tighten, but that's from looking at the nut (i.e. from the bottom of the carb). Got it. That makes much better sense. Ok so that means my mix nuts are out too far, making my mix too rich. So can I just tighten them, or do I have to reset the throttle screws and check my flows again?

I've suspected for some time, since I did my first Z-Therapy taught carb tune, that I was running too rich. Excessive exhaust, bad mileage, and finally, black plugs with wet plug holes. So apparently, I need to lean my mix up. How do I go about this? Do I go through the entire procedure of backing out the idle pins and resetting the mix nuts, or can I just go straight to the mix nuts? Also, the part that confused me the most the first time I did my carbs, was the direction I was supposed to be turning the mix nuts. The engine service manual procedure says, "Idling fuel flow volume is reduced by tightening the idling adjusting nut (turning it to the right), and is increased by loosening the idling adjusting nut (turning it to the left)." I know that this sounds completely stupid, but it was the tightening and loosening part that confused me. What I understood it to mean was that turning the nut to the right (looking down on the carb - i.e. clockwise), leans your mix. Did I get that right? So if I want to lean my mix can I just drop my nuts ( sorry couldn't resist)? How much? Or should I redo the entire carb tune?

I recently installed 2 1/4" pipe all the way through, removed the resonator, and used a Flowmaster in the rear, with a stainless tip cut at a 45^ down angle. Sounds EXCELLENT.

I'm saving this thread. I've been having problems too. For me it's bearable, but I don't like having one of the kids in the car, and I know they don't like it much either. Kinda ruins some of the fun.

From ZHome.com

None of your questions matter. Once you drive a Z you will never go back. j/k (well not really). Honestly though, your questions are kind of hard to answer since they are subjective. This site is mainly dedicated to 240Z's, so as far as year model goes, I'm sure most people will say between 1970-1974. If you're looking for a stock Z, I would definately recommend a pre-1974 car. The carbs in these models were much better than latter years. A stock 240 in good condition, well tuned will put out about 150hp and run around a 14 second 1/4 mile. I've read about many owners replacing their dizzy's with electronics, but I'm not convinced there's a performance boost there - maybe just more reliable for some. My 72 is all stock and I love it. As for parts prices, many parts can be realced cheaply ans easily if you know where to look, others can't. My chrome side view mirror cost me $85 from a local parts guy. I replaced the entire exhaust from behind the manifold for $175. How much you're willing to spend is all dependant on how hooked you are on the car, right? Believe me, if you find a good Z, you'll wonder why you've been driving VW's all these years. Good luck!

2ManyZ's, I looked into it when I bought the car (failed emissions the first time and barely passed the second time). In Delaware anything past 1968 has to pass a single speed emissions test, and anything past 1980 has to pass a two speed emissions test. So no go on the exemption. What I don't know is if the cutoff changes as the years go by (which would make sense - but often things don't make sense in Delaware). IF the exemption date moves as time moves, I'd be exempt in four years. THEN I could think about removing the smog stuff. I really think my backfiring problem is due to removing the resonator and replacing the muffler with the Flowmaster. With the old exhaust system, I had zero backfiring. I've looked at the plugs and plug wires and they all look good. The plugs are new and the wires appear to be new. Haven't had a chance to look at the anti-backfire valve, but I tend to think it's ok since I had no probs before rebuilding the exhaust. Regardless, I'm seriously leaning towards installing a resonator ($40), if not only to help with backfiring, but to quiet the exhaust. I had no idea how throaty at low rpm's and how racey at 4000 rpm a Z could be.