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Submerge the sending unit in CLR (calcium, lime, and rust) for 24 - 48 hrs. It will come out clean and usable.

Mine were more crud from leaving old gas in them for too long. The tanks were good and solid after I pressure washed the outside of them. That muriatic acid made the inside like new but after sloshing around for 5 minutes I had to pour in about 3 gallons of mixed ahead of time baking soda and water to neutralize the acid then emptied that into an empty 5 and killed a lot of ant beds around my property. Then the acetone to remove the water, quick hit with the leaf blower and then the Red-Kote. Sloshed that around completely covering the tank and let that drain out into another 5 then direct sunlight for 30 minutes, then another round with the leaf blower. Then I put that bitch on a shelf and got drunk. It was very nerve wracking for this 'ol boy, but when all was said and done I was and still am proud of what I did. You see, I hate following directions.

What would you say the success rate is. I’ve seen both results reported here. The overall condition of the tank is probably going to be the deciding factor. I had my tank redone at a shop, keep in mind you’re at their mercy as far as the job you get. At the end of the day my tank began to leak from minuscule rust pit holes. That’s when I decided to purchase a new tank. Again it’s all about what shape your tank is in and you really won’t know until you remove it.

Good thread! I get to pick my DD based on need... 2000 Lexus LX470 (Landcruiser) But mostly drive this daily: 2014 BMW Z4 (E89) Manual

Saw this and I am tempted to purchase. We had Aurora slot cars growing up and they were a ton of fun. HO scale, so would fit with my trains.

What I have...the red/blue are flat head, the blue/clear are philips, and the black/clear are torx. This seems to be the standard from what I've seen in stores for decades. Maybe some older tools were different.

I borrowed ideas from these two guys and added a few of my own from past motorcycle tank plus the instructions from Red-Kote. https://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/gastank/index.htm https://woodworkerb.com/home/datsun-240z-rebuild/240z-fuel-tank/ https://www.damonq.com/techsheets/red-kote.pdf

I've done two tanks and it's not hard. You have to get everything together and plan it out as things have to be done pretty quick. 10 years ago it was $50 for all the chemicals. The only thing is letting it cure for about a month, most important. So if your in hurry to get on the road buy a new one. If not clean and coat it yourself. A gallon of acid, $5, couple boxes of baking soda, $5, gallon of acetone $10, quart of red-kote $30. Plenty of empty 5 gallon buckets and a leaf blower.

You can also bench test it before you reinstall it. Quite a few articles here on the site referencing that.

Good question (and my mistake). The research project that I reviewed involved the development of an app for a smart watch.

@siteunseen THANK YOU! This is the kind of info I was looking for. Much obliged.

A work colleague of mine and I spent about an hour yesterday getting some video of the 240z I restored (got it on the road on Dec 31 last year). Unlike me, he has skills and talent for editing and creating videos. Have a look! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nQ3ieeuqjwI

Dang, that is pretty cool. BRE livery one of the greatest all-time in racing.

S30.World I wouldn’t give it another thought. Many folks on this site have purchased tanks from them including myself and were very satisfied.

My July '70 car, #6521 has all of those features as well. I knew about your points 1 & 2 but not 3. Interesting, I learned something today, thanks.

I am currently going through the various parts of the car and cleaning, re-furbing and painting (as needed) so that everything will be ready to install once the body returns. I figured I would post a few 'Unique to the early cars' parts here (or things that Rich has never seen before) on a 240Z. On the gas pedal there is a small bracket at the very top. I am not sure of the purpose of that feature. My guess is that it was intended to be used in tandem with the deleted throttle lever. The cover on the wiper motor is something I have never seen. Nice custom fit. The later bag covers were probably cheaper to produce. The steering column transition brackets have overmolded rubber in the locations where the shaft would be attached. I guess they decided that these were not needed. Interesting to see though.

I would add some details of how, exactly, you are evaluating "spark". With a spark plug at the end of a plug wire, through the coil center terminal, with a spark tester...? Are you cranking the engine when you do this? Have you disconnected the original module by the fuse box or did you resintall it? And, or, but, I have noticed that you do not have any battery power going to the coil in your picture. You only have the coil connected to the module and no pwer to the module either. You need power to the coil positive terminal. Also, use your meter and make sure that the mounting screw of the module has a good ground. And make sure that it's the correct screw. Only one of the screws completes the ground through the module, it has a thicker ferrule. Looks like you have the correct screw but you might not have good contact through that screw head or where it seats on the TB. The TB is not the best place to mount it. That's where all of the coil current flows when the module is doing its thing. And, it you plan to run it for long you need a proper heat sink under the flat part of the module. It gets hot and heat will cause them to fail.

Ewwwwwww. They coated the boards. "Conformal coating" it's called. Looks like every place the coating wasn't perfect, the metal underneath corroded. So the P.O. commuted underwater to get to work every day?? ☺️

well, looky what I found.... Some carb cleaner and it will be good as new I guess I ll be having fun with the HEI

I would think the motor oil you're using squirted down the spark plugs holes would be good and take the valve cover off add soak the cam and valve train. Then turn it slowly clockwise from the the front and notice any hang ups or anything but smoothe rotation over and over. Leave the plugs out and use the starter but don't crank too long, short burst as to not burn the starter up. You will need a battery charger and don't rush the process, feel the starter and if it gets too hot to touch call it a day. The coolant should be all the way up to the top of the radiator fill hole. Let it run until you see the coolant flowing. I would add some water to your coolant, it looks to be straight antifreeze. That's not bad but 50/50 is what most people do.

Take good care of that head if it’s really a MN head . Like said - a compression test would show pretty stout numbers with any combo involving a Maxima head . CC’s are about 39 which should show 180-200 psi compression check . I’ll also say the Maxima head would be about better than anything you could pit on that engine . But it also would be a challenge for stock EFI to keep up with the compression - not even talking ignition timing issues also .

Buy a FSM hard copy off EBay or download the one here on this site and study it from one end to the other. The EFI section is what’s going to be your biggest challenge. Have fun! It’s a journey and well worth it.

And let me guess... You've never seen Aircraft paint remover either:

I was kind of kidding. Didn't know that it was a thing. An odd name for a product, must be from way back. https://www.iqsdirectory.com/articles/wire-rope/aircraft-cable.html https://www.homedepot.com/p/KingChain-1-8-in-x-50-ft-Galvanized-Aircraft-Cable-Kit-with-Clips-and-Thimbles-7x19-Construction-504711/304086908

Careful with those exhaust bolts especially the one on the rear of the engine that mounts the hoist harness plate. You can snap a stud in a heart beat. Soak them thoroughly for a couple of days before attempting to remove the nuts.

Can this be found at Home Depot?

I like to use piece of unjacketed aircraft cable for this, maybe 1/8" or 3/16". Put a lot of carb cleaner down the line. Let it sit for a while and then feed the cable in. Chuck it up in a cordless drill and spin to help brush out the inside of the line. When I can feed it end to end with out interference, it's good. You could get a compressed air tank and air it up inside your place. Then use it to blow out the lines.

Since you now know that the head has been off and your hopes for an original engine are gone I would change direction and take time to verify that whoever swapped heads did a good job. Check valve lash and timing chain wear. 1975 has the engine serial number on the ID tag in the engine bay. Compare numbers to see if you got just a head swap or a complete engine swap. The tag is over by the brake master cylinder. Original Nissan parts have a notch on the timing chain sprocket that will indicate wear. Rotate the engine to the zero on the damper pulley timing mark and make sure the driver's side of the chain is tight.

You have a Maxima N47 cylinder head on top of an L28 block. Maxima's had 2.4 liter blocks which would be stamped L24. A Maxima head on a L28 block raises the compression and runs better. I would guess you have the original block from 1975 which would be an N42 with dished pistons. That is not the head that came on that L28 block but you do have the parts for a good running car. Clean it out and get familiar with the car before worrying about the motor. You have a lot of reading to do. And to be clear, do not try and start the motor as it sits, in fact take the battery out of the car while you're working on getting things figured out. Running the fuel pump would be terrible this early.

You're right as usual. There is an N but no M in the casting number. More coffee. @nowak1981 you have a hard to find cylinder head, don't get rid of it.

People call it the "M"N47 because it comes from a Maxima. But there's no M in the casting number.

I got my P90 head down and took some pictures. Zed Head it was right there before ours eyes but I didn't see it because I didn't think the N47 had one yet, but I was wrong. Here's his N47 head with a hole in the passenger's side just like the P90. My '77 N47 doesn't have this. Must be a ZX thing? And the Maxima head is a MN47.

Here's a place I go to to see what parts might be correct. Found a 75 there, with EGR. Like yours. No AC though so the AC vacuum ports are blocked. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1975-datsun-280z-43/

Did 1975 California have EGR? Maybe that is a 1975 intake manifold. Just checked 1976 and CA did have EGR. So 75 probably did too. I jumped the gun on the manifold I think. All I'm really certain of at this point is that 1975 never had an N47 head. They did not exist then. I'm going to go with everything is stock except the head and that it's a Maxima N47 head. Which means the head has been off. Maybe other work has been done also. Thanks for the new puzzle.

Pretty sure the ZX cooling fans are turned on by a switch in the thermostat housing. I had a spare ZX engine and messed around with the switch once when I was trying to make my own cooling fan system. I see some other odd things in the pictures. It has the original three piece fuel rail. But it's been messed with, screws are missing. Why not use the ZX or Maxima fuel rail? It's one piece. The AFM number might be important. If the PO used the ZX AFM there might be problems. I'd get all the numbers together and see what's what before getting carried away. I'm not even positive that that's a ZX intake manifold. Maybe it's an L24E unit.

They're what kick those fans on I think. Went in the side of the head. Another thing is the '79 ZX had an N42 block didn'? We shall see. This guy is ready get busy I'm sure. It's going to be a challenge going from a Crown Victoria to an early 280Z with fuel injection. Here's something you might consider depending on your long term plans.

I've thought that only the L24E Maxima N47 came with the cylinder head temperature sensor. Cylinder pressures will be a clue. Especially if it's an F54 block with flat tops.

My '77 had an N47 head and a '79 ZX motor I bought had an N47 head. I think it's a 1979 280ZX motor. The cut head temp sensor, the fuel rail fan are what I'm judging by. That xenon page has some mistakes on the head dates. The '75 and '76 came with an N42 block and an N42 cylinder head, great running combo from the factory. I'm pretty sure the first ZX, the 1979, came with an N42 block? You will play hell finding an N42 cylinder head. That's the one before they did the EGR N47 head. N42s are a lot simpler and cleaner looking. You can pull the motor and transmission together and start working on rebuilding the motor. When you get frustrated or run out of parts/money then go to the interior and body work. 2 years is a good timeline or at least that's what it took me by myself. Have fun, you seem to have a good mindset going to work on your Z. Know when to walk away for a few days is the lesson I learned. https://datsunzgarage.us/heads/

Oops. Still, check the hoses. My fuel injector hoses were also age cracked and ended up shooting tiny streams of gasoline. Made it all the way to the sidewalk when I opened the hood. Another lucky break, I smelled it in the city before I got on the highway. You have a bunch of small odds and ends in front of you. Have fun.

That would be the cylinder head temperature sensor. That deepens the mystery. It was used in 1980 on the P79 and P90 heads but I don't think the Z car N47 heads got it. That might be a Maxima N47 head. A popular compression ratio "upgrade" for the L28's. @madkaw knows. If you look on the driver's side by the engine mount you might be able to see the block casting number. It should be N42 or F54. I was going to mention the fuel hoses. Make sure that they are all high pressure EFI hose. I'm pretty sure that that glass filter is not rated for 36 psi. Check the rubber hose in the back from the fuel pump also. My car had low pressure hose when I got it and it split while I was driving. Luckily a UPS drive saw the fuel spilling and flagged me down.

Engine codes... https://www.xenonzcar.com/s30/engines.html The number on the block below spark plug #6 and #5 should match the number on the ID tag inside the driver's door. Yours won't but anyway...

Get some boxes and zip-lock baggies to put everything in, label what it is with a Sharpie. Take pictures of everything, you won't regret it. This is the best book by far to get if your like me and need to read about the cars before rebuilding. It covers mainly the drivetrain, engine and transmission. Here's the thread on "waking the sleeping beast" that Carl Beck wrote up. It's for a 240 but worth a read as a lot of it overlaps with the 280. Post #8... The book you need to read about 3 times before you ever even start disassembly. https://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1931128030

I have bought many things from Zcardepot. I have found their service and website to be very good!

Welcome! Why dont you provide some personal background and your experience with wrenches? I would have advised you to buy the exterior door handle off Amazon if you didn't. I bought a matched pair recently. They look great and they were cheap. If your going to try to fuel it from a can then both supply and return lines will need to go into it. I probably wouldn't try to start it without cleaning or replacing all the chassis fuel lines and disassembling the fuel rail and testing the injectors. If the injectors are good and the rail is full of varnish you will ruin them trying to start it up. I would also start with verifying the fuel pressure regulator is good and works appropriately You are correct, there is no dipstick on the manual trans

It's not a big deal. It will only affect things like intake/exhaust manifold gaskets. Look between the 1 and 2 spark plugs on the cylinder head and you''ll probably see N47 or P79. Check for numbers on the exhaust manifold. They might have used the N42 manifold from the 75. The port shapes are different.

Before you even get started on this project, Either hard copy, Which I totally prefer where you can get a feel of the car. Read that manual over thoroughly and get an idea of what the challenges are ahead. Your multimeter will be your best friend.

Somebody put a 280ZX engine in that car. Maybe they did the 5 speed too. That would be nice. The intake manifold and the cooling fan ducts over the valve cover are the tell. It should run just like the original 75 L28. Had second thoughts. Probably not. Looks like a 75 manifold. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1975-datsun-280z-43/

Welcome to the forum! There’s a ton of experts IMO that can guide you through. Thanks for saving another Z

It already has front wheel discs. Download the FSM, and wiring diagram, and Owners Manual before you get too far along. And get a multimeter, it will help a lot with the EFI system. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/ There's also a thread on the forum somewhere about things to do before trying to resurrect an old Z that's been sitting. You can avoid some damage and increase the odds of a good startup. I'd read up on that before even trying to turn the engine over. Welcome to the Z world.