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Im in good company!!

@Yarb Made a little progress today. I got the reverse lights fixed with the help of Yarb and my little helper was in town too. Yarb sent me a new switch he had. It's longer than the one I ordered Yarb, do you know the part number for that switch?

First thing - the AFM does indeed have a wiring connector, it's of Bosch design (as is the entire EFI system in your Z) and it's, like most Bosch connectors of that era, a PITA to remove. If your AFM is in place it will be difficult to see as it's underneath all that. Second thing - you really need to make sure the injectors are opening. It's sort of easy if you have the right stuff, and can be done in place IF you know how to release and remove the BOSCH injector connectors... If for instance you HAD a spare Bosch injector connector with a pigtail, you could put it on each injector in sequence and use a 9-volt battery to quickly apply and remove voltage to the pigtail wires. Yes, a 9-volt battery will open an injector. If you hear the distinct CLICK of the injector opening you can immediately rule out the "crapolla, the injector is stuck closed". (here I have to say: one side of the battery needs to be permanently connected, the other (doesn't actually matter which) needs to be loose so you can just tap the exposed wire end to the bare pole quickly. You DO NOT want to hold voltage to the injector except for a very brief period of time - that's how they work, milliseconds... IF STUCK they in truth need to be pulled and cleaned (and flow balanced) by a professional shop OR replaced - BUT most of the time I can get a stuck injector opening again by rapidly tapping the wire for awhile (several seconds or more) until I hear it clicking. That may help you in your effort to get it running even if things are not all perfect. The injector is a coil (an electromagnet) so both of those spade connectors are actually tied together by the coil. You should see that when testing with an Ohm Meter - leads placed on the two should show a steady Ohm value. If that circuit is OPEN, the injector is bad and you can't fix it. Now, you can also test that the injectors are getting voltage - they should ALWAYS show battery voltage if the Ignition switch is in the ON (or Start) position. And, because it's a coil, you WILL see voltage on BOTH sides IF the harness wiring is connected to the injector. If the injector connector has been removed you will see battery voltage ON ONE SIDE of the connector an not the other. The ECU asserts a ground to the other side of the connector to open the injector and, like I said, this happens FAST. You will never see this activity with a meter (oscilloscope yes). Because they are basically a coil IT DOES NOT MATTER which side gets power and which gets a ground signal. Most people wire the "hot" side consistently to one side of the connectors, BUT they don't have to! There is NO "+" side or "-" side. If there was, the injector would tell you.

That's a late one. Never heard it. I was listening to them on vinyl on a cheap record player with a penny taped on the stylus.

I have some OEM, two used and one NOS.

How long since a new fuel filter up front on the passenger's side? Sounds awful familiar of a clogged up tank. You can run a hose before the pump to a gas can to bypass the tank as an easy test

I can still learn! Yay? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toilet_Duck Toilet Duck is an American brand name of toilet cleaner noted for the duck-shape of its bottle shaped to assist in dispensing the cleaner under the rim. The design was patented in 1980 by Düring AG from Dällikon, Switzerland.[2][3] It is now produced by S. C. Johnson & Son. The Toilet Duck brand can be found in the United States, United Kingdom and other countries around the world. In Germany, it is known as WC-Ente, previously produced by Henkel,[4] and now by S. C. Johnson (Germany).[5] In the Netherlands and Flanders it is called "Wc-eend", in France it is sold as "Canard-WC" and in Italy as "Anitra WC". In Hungary it used to have the name "Toalett Kacsa". Meanwhile, in Spain, it is sold as "Pato WC", in Portugal as "WC Pato", and in Mexico, Brazil, Colombia, Argentina and Chile as "Pato Purific" or simply "Pato". In Indonesia, it is one of the "Bebek" (duck) line of products, such as Bebek Kloset, Bebek Semerbak, Bebek Semerbak Flush, Bebek In Tank, and Bebek Kamar Mandi.

Well you don't know me as a music snob, just a greasy guy from Alabama, but you need to listen to that album. I'm going out on limb without google.com but that's the last one? P.s When I was young you could flip the needle over for a new one.

its not near close enough to get into the intake. I did test the injectors and they are coming up with 12V now. When i tested them i was testing while cranking thinking both sides would be (+, -) but both sides are showing 12v. i can make it leak anywhere on the fuel rail and it seems to work. its really odd. i dont know how the fuel pressure regulator works but maybe i have too much pressure? Ill check the RPMs. EDIT: RPMs shows, i can keep revs around 800-1000+ and it runs for 10 seconds then stops every time. I engine has warmed up and I tighened the all the hope clamps so gas isnt leaking out and it still runs. Maybe whatever cobwebs were cleaned out since its been sitting for 10+ years. will continue to read and troublshoot.

Actually (I think) this only true if all of the injectors are disconnected. It's a parallel circuit for the 280Z EFI. Batch fire injectors. CO pointed that out way back when I mentioned getting voltage on both sides. Or it might be if the injectors on the same transistor are all disconnected (there's two, either 3 + 3 or 4 + 2). The later sequential systems wouldn't do this. Anyway, I have seen 12 on both sides, which was confusing. But can't remember the conditions under which I was measuring. There are other tricks to test the injectors and the injector circuits. Like tapping coil negative to ground three times. But, it's best to do the simple stuff first, probably.

This is probably my favorite Steely Dan from the only CD I have of theirs. They were a tight playing group on that disc.

Never mind! Coffee kicked in. 3 outer and only 2 inner shims. I read back through that and this doesn't make sense. Diseazed do you know how many valve spring washers Eiji uses? I don't know him like you do and kinda scared to call and ask a bunch of questions until I am actually ready to do mine. I know he's a busy man. Because .080" longer valves are now in the head the springs must be shimmed up to from the bottom to retain the same spring tension. The washers are hardened steel and are there to prevent galling of the aluminum head...don't get them from the hardware store. The stock head came with only one shim under each per spring is exactly .040" in thickness. So just add 2 more under each outer spring (total fo three) and you can achieve the desired increase of .080". Washers used to be available at MSA and were inexpensive. The single stock washer under the inner spring is also .040" thick. But you can only add a total of 2 washers under the valve seal instead of 3, as it won't let the valve seal lock-ring seat properly. The inner spring is more of a "helper" spring and won't be adversely affected, I've had no problems using only 2 washers here and I rev my engine to 7,300.

Have you read datsungarage p79 modification? You shave 80 off, shim cam towers 80 higher and use the valves from the N head. https://datsunzgarage.us/p79/

I do, I ordered another from Nissan to replace mine. When I get back in town from Boston, I’ll post the p/n. Can’t remember if it was superseded.

Provide some details about the car. Is it a California car with a converter or is it a Federal car without? There will be a sticker on the door jamb that says Catalyst or No Catalyst. I found the patent describing the concept. If the system follows the patent there will be some hardware attached to the air intake system after the AFM. Attached below. If it was mine I would disconnect it and get the wiring back to factory stock in order to simplify things until you get the engine started. There are numerous reasons that it might not be starting. Start with the basics - power to the coil, spark, tach signal, etc. Download the 1980 EFI book and do the electrical tests. Try starting fluid if you have spark. Make sure the fuel pump is working, etc... I'd also start a separate thread where everything you try is contained. Sometimes people start multiple threads and you can't tell what's been done. It can take a while to get things right after an EFI car has sat. https://patents.google.com/patent/US5163412A/en "Pollution control system for older vehiclesAbstractA pollution or emission control system for retrofitting on older vehicle engines includes a catalytic converter with an in-built oxygen sensor for mounting in the exhaust line, and a supplemental air input line containing a control valve for connection to the engine intake manifold to control the amount of air supplied to the engine. A computer monitors the oxygen sensor output and the engine speed, and controls opening and closing of the control valve according to the detected conditions. The computer also controls the speed at which the valve is opened or closed dependent on the engine speed and optionally the engine temperature, so that the valve can be closed faster at slower engine speeds and opened faster at higher engine speed. The computer is additionally capable of producing diagnostic telemetry, both digital and analog, to assist installation of the invention and test for proper operation once installed."

What do you think @Mark Maras , Raisin Bran or Chex?

Todays event... I put a160 degree thermostat in. Didn't expect it would help anything, and it didn't. But just for completeness, I had to. So cut some gaskets from sheet with the scissors that came from the first aid kit and the hole punch borrowed from the hotel lobby desk. Haha!

They look better wet.😁 Mine has water allergies though. Now for some windshield time.