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Captain! Yes, they did completely rebuild it. It cost a little more than I was quoted because they said the plastic reservoirs were brittle, and cracked. Thank you for the information, I knew it was probably from car #1042, but I didn't know there was another version. I appreciate all the help you and others have been on this project. PM me your address and I'll send you a couple choke handle screws. 1 for using and 1 for losin.

Disconcerting that your AFM numbers went a little leaner when you tightened everything up. The tightening might be related, or it might be a red herring. But disconcerting either way. So did you ever try giving it a little bit of choke enrichment with the lever while you're driving? Does it react as expected and the numbers come down?

Installed the fan, 1st of many times, and the horns. I had the radiator re-cored back in 2021, it's been in a box in the loft for 4 years. I had the brake booster re-done as well in 2021. I tried to rebuild the brake master cylinder but...........I'm about to learn something. I have a few fenders off that parts car and measured and located the holes for the emblems, as well as the hatch. My hatch emblem holes were covered up, but I could find them from inside the hatch, underneath. So I removed the hatch. The fenders had no holes as the bottoms of them were replaced. The master cylinder on my car leaked, not only the copper sealing washers leaked, but was leaking back into the brake booster. Not a good situation with all this fresh nice paint. It was about this time I realized I don't even have the correct master cylinder on this car. The rear reservoir is going to the front and visa versa. That's the way I found it. Makes me wonder of it really makes any difference, this swap was done decades ago. It just so happened I got a master cylinder with my parts car, and it was the correct one. It had one good cap. Here's what an early cap looks like. Too late to stop now, haha, dang it, so I sent it to White Post Restorations. I installed it and guess what, it leaked...out the copper sealing washers where those big fittings are on the bottom. Because these new copper sealing rings are too hard, harder than they used to be, I heated them up to a glowing red, to anneal them, align the properties. I don't think it matters how you cool copper, quickly or slowly, the end result is the same. Sure enough it made them soft and they sealed.

I decided to move on to refinishing other pieces, starting with the fan. I took my fan into Carquest and went through their paint color books. I found a match! They mixed it up. I bead blasted my fan blades, primered and painted them. Well, my seat belts now looked out of place as well as the seat brackets. I took the buckles apart and just lightly wet sanded the rusty areas and scuffed the rest. Same with the seat brackets. I painted them. I got some clear vinyl .03" thick and made new pieces for between the brackets and the seat. I got some black dye and dyed the luggage straps.

Maybe The throw out bearing collar was too short. Multiple configurations across the board. IMHO.

For best life and to minimize vibration, drivelines should operate at a slight angle, and not be perfectly inline. The small angle is to ensure that all of the needle bearings will see load and rotate. When I design drivelines for industrial applications I use about 2 degrees of parallel misalignment. That said the likelihood of an automotive driveline being perfectly aligned is probably zero.

Yesterday I gave #957 an overdue wash/detail, top and bottom. I've had six months of ownership, and been caught in the rain a few times during the 700 miles I have put on her so far.

Completely dismantled, cleaned, and lubricated. Motor checked for correct operation. The damaged OE antenna mast was replaced with a aftermarket stainless steel unit. The top section of the mast was rethreaded to accept a 240Z bullet tip. This is a six section mast, the same length as OE. A new drain tube is installed. Note: The mast has a different profile and finish from the OE chrome mast so it is not correct for a 100% stock restoration. $275 with standard domestic shipping. Payment via PayPal. Comparison of OE mast on the left and replacement on the right:

Thanks for that info, Mark. So, it seems like I should focus my efforts on the driveshaft. While I had the driveshaft shortened and balanced by a reputable driveshaft shop, I am thinking I will need to have it checked. There are actually several driveshaft shops near me, I found out today. I also am unsure if the alignment of the transmission to the differential is off. I need to check left to right of each as well as vertical angles of the rear of the transmission and the front of the differential. Raising the engine a small amount from stock (via the new motor mounts) may be a factor. I am going to buy a digital inclinometer to help with figuring these angles out.

I put some easy miles on the car yesterday; I took it on the interstate for the first time. No full throttle application, I just did some cruising. I have completely eliminated all exhaust leaks I had at the joints. I have ensured that all the nuts and bolts relating to the intake manifold and header are tight and there are not leaks. While I was driving I took a couple more AFR recordings. With the SM needles, I am looking pretty darn good at idle - very near 14.7 to 1: My carburetor linkage is hanging a bit. When I drive normally, and stop for a traffic light, the idle is staying at about 1000. If I rapidly tap the gas pedal, the throttle plates drop a touch, and idle is steady at about 850. I have verified that both carb linkages are hanging... by what looks like something less than .010". When the linkage is hung and the car is idling at 1000, I can put my finger on the carburetor shaft linkage (each one) and force it to shut fully (move the linkage the last few thousandths to contact the idle screws). I think this is likely to go away when I get some more miles on the car. Anyway, during cruise, I am definitely lean with the SM needles - around 16.2: I don't notice any surging when this is happening. All seems well. However, if I depress the gas pedal anywhere from slightly to moderately, the AFR goes a bit more lean and I feel that hesitative state. I still plan to wait until I am at 500 miles before I attempt to do anything else. I am only 50 miles away from that point. Then I will do a leak down check, an oil change, and check valve lash. If the engine is fully broken in at that point, I will need to figure out what to do with either SU spring tuning, or needle tuning.