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Ready to get busy blocking…

In 2015 when I created my account, I included "On track for world's slowest restoration..." Did most of the disassembly several years ago. Almost 10 years later and not getting any younger. One kid left in college. Time to get serious. I want to do some of the work myself (mostly assembly and interior stuff), but things like bodywork and paint, engine, and transmission will be left to the pros. Anyone know of a good restoration shop in the southeast US? Most of the ones I find are either American muscle cars (we are in NASCAR country) or want to work on only high end European cars, such as Ferrari, Jaguar, etc. and have prices to match. About the car... 9/70 build date (titled as a '71). Original owner was elderly man in CA bay area. I'm 2nd owner and have always kept it garaged. All original... including original, uncracked series I dash, except wheels are mag wheels from '70 (owner said he got the new wheels and threw away the hubcaps after his first paycheck owning the car... if they only knew how much they'd be worth one day). The windshield did not make it through disassembly. Supposedly no body work and original paint, except the original owner did say he backed into something lightly which bent the metal next to the tailpipe cutout and made the left, rear bumperette a little crooked, which is how it was when I got it. Very minor damage. Transmission was replaced with B style by Datsun dealer early in life.

From 1969 up, Japan. The basic design of the lamp unit incorporates the two bulb holders. Japanese market models used the second bulb holder for the parking lamp system and the designated sub harness hooked it up. . Slightly later, Australian market cars got a two bulb system with a divided half amber and half clear lens and an internal partition.

The US version, and presumably for North America, has only a single dual-filament bulb for this light. It would be interesting to learn where a dual bulb version was used.

The single spark indicates that the coil has power and ground. The fact that there are not more sparks indicates that the points are not opening and closing. Breaking and making the circuit through the coil. Could be that the cam on the distributor is worn out or the points are not set correctly (held open or held closed) or the distributor shaft is not turning. With the key on and the distributor cap off it should be possible to open and close the points by hand and get a spark each time from the center wire of the coil. The rubbing block of the points needs to be on the cam point when setting the points gap. From about 1:00 https://youtu.be/BC3nmuXdEuI?feature=shared