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Found another hour to work on my car. and one thing on the to-do list was the rubber mud flaps that are installed inside the fender in below the metal mud guards. Another little detail that is missing on many cars, as they have been simply removed and not replaced on many cars over the year: Here we go: On the LH fender (Similar to the RH one). some previous owner "cleaned" the Fender emblem holes. which was a common practice back then. On the RH side i tried to drill the holes based on some measures i had previously made, but it proved to be not 100% perfect. so this time i decided to use the color stencil method by getting the approximate position marked on the fender by measures. And thenn getting the 100% correct spacing by adding oil color paint to the pins and then pressing it to the fender, like a stencil. here's the result (ignore the old marking i have made previously, they were quite wrong). After that i got my holes drilled. The 4th hole, which is slightly lower than the three mounting holes, is there from factory, and i believe it's to drain moisture that is cought behind the emblem that's why it's at the lowest point of the emblem. Also rust protection primer added. And here we go. I haven't pushed the emblem in completely, because i'd remove it again immediately. Also i will probably use the european "Datsun" instead of the "Fairlady Z" emblems. Good thing is they use the exactly same holes. Then installed the LH fender back on. the front end work is progressing slowly but steadily: Maybe it's just me, but i think the Z looks so much cooler with the original long stalk Fender mirrors: So overall i was able to tick another few tasks from my bodywork to-do list. still plenty of work, but getting there and it's fun to see some progress.

Back from my trip to India and got around to working on the car. Got all the fluids bled and topped off so I think it's ready for a rip... after that it's lining up all the panels, buffing, and doing some detail work like headliner, interior, hooking up lights, etc. Thanks for all of your help to get me this far!

Carolina Driveline received my driveshaft on Wednesday. They have shortened and balanced it for $120 plus shipping and are shipping it back to me today. That is impressive turnaround time.

But if someone converted that car to an internally regulated alternator, that person would have to disable fuel pump relay 1, or the battery would keep running down. The wiring would need to be modified to get power back to the fuel pump in that case.

It's not a tooth, it's the hole that the locating pin uses. But what really matters is the location of the notch relative to the groove, at TDC. The locating hole - 1, 2, or 3 - is used to get the notch in the right place.

But since it's a 73, it may be wired with the field modifications. That's why I want to get the OP to answer some questions about his car as opposed to throwing out a bunch of things.

The wiring is there in the back, but depending upon what has been done to the car over the years, getting power to the pump may be an issue.

Hi Ron, Mikuni 44's don't need anything special. They are sensitive to inlet fuel pressure though. So, if you haven't one already, plan on adding a fuel pressure regulator and setting the inlet pressure between 3 and 3.5 lbs. Regarding the pump: I recommend this Nissan Motorsport one: Electric Fuel Pump 17010-RR010. Mounting bracket info (to mount the pump near the tank: https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/124530-nismo-fuel-pump-install-help/ Also, there is wiring already on the car to utilize to hook up the pump electrically. There are various ways to route fuel for the carbs. I used a method that circulates unused fuel back to the tank and incorporated an Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator, but there are less expensive options.