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So in the shop yesterday and today Still working on running lights. Pulling together the best parts. Buffing and washing Finally found the wiper motors. I haven't been able to find them. I knew I had at least 3 but I couldn't find them. So frustrating!! I looked through the shop several times. Shelley helped me today and we were very thorough. We found them right near the work bench almost under my feet. I hate the tunnel vision that comes with age! ;( So here is the wiper motor that came out of Lily It has a hard shell on it instead of a bag like this one The BrownZ also has the hard shell, so I believe that is correct. When Lily got a green repaint they painted the cover. It had a lot of paint on it. Put it in the bead blaster. It came out ok. Better than paint. I treated it with some Meguiars after this... I also worked on the air dam & the frame. I primed the frame the other day Looks like I bought it in 2011 !!! I measured some center marks Then I used some 3m Urethane and glued the frame in. Hopefully it holds. I haven't decided if I'm going to try to correct the wavy area. If it was TPO I would cut it and plastic weld it, but it's Urethane and I'm not sure I can repair the seam if I cut it... I also made up a wiper motor test switch based on SteveJ's instructions. I had to go back 20 pages in the thread to find it!! I didn't know of a good way to just search this thread. Some vintage connections and some scrap wire So of the 3 wiper motors I have, the one out of Lily is the only one that works. The others click but don't turn. The test switch is cool because the park feature and everything works! Thanks Steve! I also got the drivers seat in. At least for now. I'm hoping to bleed the brakes tomorrow Overall a good day in the shop...

I wonder, perhaps, whether you could fabricate a metal stiffener (tubing? U-channel?) and glue it to the underside of the lip. You'd probably need to use countersunk sheet metal screws (or flush-fitting pop rivets?) to pull the urethane lip down onto the stiffener. They might need to be permanent. I don't think the glue bond would hold up over the long term without some mechanical assistance.

It's the other way Mr. Patcon. More R = more fuel. That's why I asked about the actual numbers. Maybe he has some dirty connections on the coolant temp circuit.

Ok, 14 years ago is making me feel older than I am. Thanks for digging that back up. I have forsaken the Kia strips for a McMaster Carr near equivalent. I buy this stuff by the 100ft rolls and have installed plenty on local cars for several years with happy customers. https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/130/3984/1120A822 Latest idea (So far untested…) is to replace the front vertical section of that strip with one with a smaller bulb. This might help the initial tightness and a bit thick WS that makes the doors hard to close for a while. The binding we all hate is from the front vertical area of the door. I can confirm this from observation. Apparently the OEM seals were thinner in this area.