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Use "siteunseen classiczcars.com" and it'll crawl my arse.

yea the extra bolts I mentioned were for the pressure plate, not the flywheel to crank. the larger ZX uses 9 vs 6 to fix the pressure plate to the flywheel. You should also prob get a new tail shaft bushing, omega machines IIRC has the correct one. the one you get with kits is shorter than stock. Also make sure you get a oil gutter that fixes to the front of the main adapter plate, it catches oil slung from 1st gear and sends it down a long gutter to the tail shaft bushing. VERY important to make sure its in place to get oil back there. Its pretty fragile, and easy to break when separating or attaching the transmission main shell to the adapter plate. You can get them from nissan, have to bend up the end to form the gutter, then just press into place. The tail bush maybe ok, just give it a good visual and check for radial play with the drive shaft yoke slipped in. You will want a press, will help a lot. You can do it with out (seen it on youtube) but I dont like banging on things, esp ball bearings. You need to use normal care about how to press in bearings so as not to load the balls in the races. I like all nissan seals, can still be gotten. Make sure all the open sides of seals face lubricant, IIRC one on the front cover can get confusing. be very careful with sychro assy's then tend to pop apart and send small bits flying, especially the small springs that fit under the engagment dogs. think there is a left hand tread on the main shaft rear. tip, easy way to lock shaft in place is to engage two gears at once. I used a HF puller set to get the rear bearing off, pretty sure my videos have some of this documented. I had to put several pieces together to make it long enough to press of the end of the output shaft. Its not really hard just keep up with the part orintation, especially the front sychro hub , that can go on backwards, the FSM will guide you.

SOLD!

I finally picked up the A type....5 speed today.... rebuild.. I won't install it this year anyhow, but then I have it laying around, the guy who rebuild is going to retire and close his shop next year, so I was just in time...

I don't use the search feature on the forum. I use a Google search and use "site:classiczcars.com" at the end. It will crawl this site alone for results. I get better results this way

Stays flexible. Working great for my rebuild casings.

I am pretty sure I just got new lock nuts for the ones that had you pin them over. prob could reuse at least once IMHO, but I had them so used them. Hardest part for me was getting the counter shaft/main gear cluster in all at the same time, I cant recall the exact sequence other than it was a bit fiddly. that and all the fiddly setup on the press to set things up. I think I used the grey rtv or maybe the anaerobic type. think either would be fine. while you are in there you should look into seals for the shift mech, there are both seals and o-rings involved. help keep the gear oil where it belongs and not on the ball of the shifter.

Take the fitting that you removed to Ace Hardware and ask somebody to match the threads with a brass plug. I can't tell if it's straight thread or tapered but the right person at Ace should know. Get some thread sealant too. https://www.acehardware.com/search?query=brass pipe plugs https://www.acehardware.com/search?query=pipe thread sealant

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I'd use this one. Should be a Manual Transmission chapter inside. A sample. There's even a specific bearings section.