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For your viewing pleasure, my car's 50th birthday portrait.

Thank you for your advice! Feels solid enough - definitely not concerned about working in/around it now. In order to make sure this is taken care of before we leave town on Sat., I took half a day today. Put down the sill seal, with a 1/2" strip of butyl squished along the outer edge. new pressured treated 2x10 sill plate, 8' section starting from the East end. 4x4" post in place, and dimensional 2x4" post for the door frame. Wall studs still to be addressed. Outer panels in place for this corner. Sealed the sill at the corner also. Have to get new siding for the bottom 1' of the wall - I'm going to use concrete backer board for at least the lowest run (6") off the sill These garage doors have been unusable for at least 10 years, wedged shut. Now I can open & close them (after trimming the righthand one), I need to address the latches to properly secure them, and replace the pane of glass I broke.

Thanks for the info! I called them today. They said turn around time is about 6 weeks, which I am thrilled with compared to 6-7 months from Ogden. Tri-City is only 4.5 hours from me, so shipping will be less as well. They quoted $2100 for a complete set of bumpers - front and rear including all the bumper guards. My NOS rear bumper will be a good reference for them as they finish straightening the original rear bumper. I will have them re-chrome both rears, along with the original front bumper, and the front one from my track car as well. Or, maybe I will skip sending the track car bumpers... and buy these instead: https://zcardepot.com/products/front-metal-chrome-bumper-240z-70-72?variant=39614505648241&currency=USD https://zcardepot.com/products/rear-metal-stainless-steel-chrome-bumper-240z?_pos=15&_sid=adfb2aae4&_ss=r

I also worked on the CV axles and adapters. What a pain in the ... So both axles were a little too long at full droop. So I had to open the ends up and reverse the Tulip cage to make them a little shorter. I also ground off the end of the shaft to make them a little shorter maybe 3-4mm. You need all you can get. They also interfered with the ST rear sway bar. I'm wondering if the bar is supposed to go over the half shafts?? So I took the bar off for now I also worked on the parking brake some to see if I can get it working. It will clamp, sort of, but it doesn't want to back off. But the calipers are dry inside. Cody thinks I aught to bleed the brakes before I get too worried about that yet. I got the passenger side CV axle in after about 4 or 5 tries and making it as short as possible. I shorted the drivers side CV axle but I can't get it to snap into the differential. Even pushing with a pry bar. It aught not be that difficult to get in. The passenger side went in without too much fuss. You have to pry it out but it snaps in pretty easy. I was hoping @grannyknot or @Zed Head or some other member who spends time at HybridZ could give me some direction on how to deal with the axle I can't get to snap in. I've looked in the diff and the snap ring doesn't look like a problem. So I have no idea, but it's really frustrating!!

So I made a little progress a couple of weeks ago and a little more today So two weeks ago I terminated the other end of the parking brake cable. I weld the first end but decided I would try something different on this end. So I epoxied the pin and added an aluminum crimp behind it I also got in an order from Eastern Beaver and finally got the fuel sender ends redone. I softened these a few years ago with wintergreen oil but it didn't last. I got new boots from 240zrubberparts and new ends from Eastern beaver. Cut the old off and re crimped new ends