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I would strongly recommend only doing one side at a time, do the pan, when that is all welded in then the rocker, then on to the other side. It may be overly cautious but better that then having a door that won't close properly.

!!! Already making typos! Yes 2014 I had to do it myself as i could see the ground moving from under the car, I was scared that I would push my feet through the floor. Here in California we only have restrictions on things that would modify the emissions systems on cars that are 1976-> Present, anything older than that there are no "restrictions" or inspections, although emissions modifications AFAIK are still considered to be illegal.... My buddy has been working on swapping a newer Honda motor into his car so hes been taking all of the emissions system over to the old car as well. Its quite a hoot to drive, I've been impressed on how cheap it into getting something that was fast and fairly reliable. Cost vs Performance its hard to beat.... I'm assuming that there is rust in the rear rockers of the car as there is bubbling, I'll take a look at the front as well... This one was from the PNW, out of Portland if I recall correctly....

The floor pan rails stiffen the pan itself but most of the longitudinal strength is in the rockers, trans tunnel and roof. As long as you strip all the weight off the shell before mounting I think you would be okay to put it on a rotisserie. If the rockers also need replacing then that is another story, you would have to weld in some supports in the cab to stabilize and keep from flexing. Is that Z from the Bay area? The rust certainly looks like road salt damage.

Luckily, I found that the connector from my original radio harness was complete (male/female). Cut the Clarion connector and tested with the original black radio connector and it works great. Radio lights up!!! Good reception even with no antenna extension. I had to directly connect the speakers with the radio speaker wires as I have the 2 new Polk Audio speakers installed. I think this is a mono radio so planning to just connect the two speakers in parallel and call it a day. Probably will buy a cheap FM broadcaster to send music to the radio ... but i dont listen to anything when driving it anyway. IMG_9138.MOV

To address the flashing, I cut a 1/4" groove in the siding for the 1/4 lip on the flashing, which I will fill with a urethane sealant & then nail the vertical below the groove, with sealant behind that. Added joist hangers to the rafters at the subfacia. Added a stud, and finished out the paneling behind the press to a depth of 58". Going to add another 2x10 plank for the platform to make it deep enough to easily walk on & move the heavy equipment around, which will even it out with the end panel depth. The universal foam I bought from Home Depot is supposed to expand to up to 1", to seal the gap in the corrugation valleys. I don't think it's going to happen - I've left it unwrapped for over 24 hours, and 1/2 of it is just as uneven thickness as it was wrapped Gutter will sit along these lines

For my 280z I found the connector still attached to the harness. The wires were just cut to accommodate the new stereo. So got a bit lucky three. There seems to be few website which sell these as well, you have to Google but i did not search them properly.

I'm not sure why you think it's accessible then. The cavity is closed by the wheel well on the bottom and the seat belt mount plate on top. If your '75 already has the top plates installed but without tapped and threaded plate that the seat belt mounts to, then you're probably best off drilling out the spot welds to remove the top piece, weld on your threaded mount, and reattach the top plate. I can take photos of my car if needed, it's a '76, and everything is exposed and easy to see right now.

Thanks! Wishing you and your family a great Christmas and New Year.

Looks like I have got a real project on my hands! I will take a look.

Thanks. I feel like it is peeling back an onion, the more I dig, the more I find. Even where the metal is good, it seems somewhat thin and bendable now all of the fill material has been ground away. I certainly did not expect the hole in the passenger side to be that large, or the rivet patch on the driver side to be that big. SMH. Oh well. I feel like Tyler Hoover, my car is giving me an extensive bill for the holidays.

Alright so there is a boat load of metal to be replaced on this car, I have both floor pans from Chalie that been sitting in the attic for years, but I will need the passenger side firewall / battery tray and frame rail to be replaced as well. I don't think It would be be wise to try to get this car onto a rotisserie yet because the frame rails are gone... I've been going back an forth about what sequence things should be approached in, if you have an opinion on sequence of approach I'm all ears. I dropped the subframe yesterday, just wanted to get the ball rolling. I'll probably drop the rear tomorrow... Here is the gore so far...